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Viper Ltx Se clutch help/opinions

The original setup consisted of 2 washers in the tip and 7 in the heel, secondary at a 6-1 wrap, when I went out and tried this combo I was bouncing off the rev limiter bad, then after trying launches I would say 5 times or so I brought it back in and noticed a lot of belt dust as well, this is when I started adding heel weight, when I finally got the rev limiter issue under control I ended up pulling the 2 washers out of the tip to gain the rpm up top again
 

Chances are the stock belt is slipping. Biggest thing I noticed with the 8jp belt is that it acted a lot different when it was cold compared to when belt and clutches were all at operating temp. Honestly, I'd say ditch the stock belt, put an 8dn on and start fresh.
 
That's what I'm leaning towards, I read ulmers post about the 8jp belt vs. the 8dn belt, So you think it might be a good idea to move the weight around meaning from the heel to the tip?
 
That's what I would do if it were me, but then again the didn't use the b-s-b spring at all, I used the orange pink orange which I believe has a stiffer finish rate meaning that I needed more tip weight to overcome the spring and keep it from over revving, either way I think it will work better for you to start your adjustments at the tip of the weights and let it rev up quick down low.
 
Is there a chart somewhere with spring info with rates and everything? It had been recommended to me before maybe try the pink pink pink spring, just don't know the rates are
 
You could go with a lower start and high finish primary spring. Try the Dalton orange
 
This motor is the same as the Nytro, but not the same ECU. The clutches are the same other than the Viper is using less spring (pink compared to white/white).The Cat ECU seems to be much more 2 smoke in the way it performs, it likes to over rev but doesn't seem to make power beyond its torque/ HP window. It makes torque at 8400 and doesn't seem to make power past that.
It wants to ping the rev limiter but leave 20 mm of primary unused.
Clutching this animal should have been very similar to the Nytro but it's not even close.
WHEN I spend enough time and money to figure out mine out I will let you know skidoolayer, that may give you a starting point.
I had 3 of the first Vipers and non of them clutched the same, different springs, different weights and different secondary's to get the same results.
 
Target rpm on clutching the viper should be around 9000 rpm on good conditions, this will still allow it to run good in poor conditions. The engine will still pull and make power even at 8500 rpm, but to have the peppy/torquey feel it needs to rev up quickly but still grip the belt hard.
 
With a stock sled with few mods you should be able to run the pink secondary spring wrapped at 6-1 and control the rpms with your cam arms.

If you want to keep your primary weights and have your secondary wrapped at 6-1 you either go with a lower start/higher finish primary spring or go to a shallower finish on your helix...say 51/40
 
Now another question... When I start running the 8dn belt how will that effect everything?

I found less belt dust and more consistent rpms but a little less mph on top.

Just do one thing at a time or your going to go crazy! lol
 
Lol I already am going crazy! ... I had an 02 srx with heelclickers and it was hell of a lot easier to figure out then this, at least when I was dialing it in it was consistent with what it was doing, this things all over the place, I think I'm gonna switch to the 8dn belt and pickup a different spring and go from there, I have a bit better understanding now of what's going on
 
Now another question... When I start running the 8dn belt how will that effect everything?

I have made the change to the 8DN on mine, still stock on my wife's. The 8DN starts out nicer, lower ratio because it rides up higher in the secondary but not seeing any notable differences.
Weights are the same, secondary's are the same only difference is mine has YPY primary spring the other is WPW primary spring.
 
I have the exact same problem. I have been trying to clutch mine for over a year now. The dealer is going to swap my clutches with the demo and see what happens, if and when we get snow again. If the problem is still there I'm removing my studs. My problem all started when I studded it. I have 1.45 gold diggers 3 per row. Everyone think I'm crazy when I say the studs,but after we swap the clutches, that is all I have left to try. 4600 miles of frustrated clutching for me and I have been clutching snowmobiles for over 25 years.
 


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