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Viper Ltx Se clutch help/opinions

I dont understand why these things are so hard to get dialed in? Did you ride yours before you studded it?
 

Yes I did. I put around 300 miles on before I studded it. It worked great. I had a straight shift and had it going 105mph. Now I have the exact shift pattern as you, since I studded it and the fastest I have had it going is 99mph. No matter how I clutch it. I can change the rpm's plus or minus but the shift is not straight. I know others that studded and had no problems but they are all running 1/4 penetration, mine is 3/8 penetration. I was on a lake with about 3 inch of snow and pure ice underneath and when it spun it shifted the clutches properly and halled #*$&@. I was only 2 length behind my buddy new axis 800 and he didn't pull me on top. We raced again on the groomed trail, I hooked up hard and it would only pull 8300 and he beat me by 5 or 6 lengths. I then raced a 1200 doo and didn't hook up as well. I blew the doors off him 10-12 lengths. He said he spun really bad off the line. I have basically the same mods as you with exception to the fuel controller. I have also noticed when off trail it will not pull my rpm's either. It seems that small factors play a big role on how this sled performs. I even pulled my limiter strap in 1 hole and gained a couple hundred rpm. What size studs are you using?
 
Swap you secondary with your buddy's nitro and see if you still have the same problem. Stingray and I talked on the phone last week and he feels it could be a problem with the secondary its self. That is why I'm swaping clutches at the dealer. We got a lot of rain yesterday, most of our snow is gone and I don't know when I will be able to try it. Try it out and let me know.
 
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I'm running long studs to, forget the exact length will measure tonight... But I believe it's also 3/8" penetration... I took the secondary apart today before I came to work, for small particles of black flakey stuff in between the sheaves near the bushing, no belt dust... Then checked play in bushing, you can move sheaves up and down a bit, what's acceptable play? Havnt measured yet, will do that tonight
 
I read your first post again. You definitely have your heel loaded to heavy. You definitely need more in the tip. Maybe spread the same weight out between the tip and heel.If your heel is loaded to heavy your primary is grabbing the belt to hard and shifting you through to fast in your secondary. That is why it drops off in the mid and takes a while to rev back up. Think of it as taking off in a standard car in 1st, as fast as you can, and shifting it into 4th. Same thing is happening to you. Your clutches went from 1st to 3rd or 4th.

The 8dn belt really helps keep things consistent. It grips better. I still have the same problem but, it is consistently the same problem. Which is better to have than a problem that is all over the rpm range.

From my experience from grass dragging, the same thing can happen when you hook up to hard or try and use too big of a helix. This usually leads to a bog off the line. I know its not the exact same thing that is happening to use but in theory it is. The only difference is we don't hook up good until about 30 mph and then the rpm's drop because the secondary cannot sense the change and compensate for it.

If you and your friend with the nitro can swap secondary's to see if your shift straightens out, that would definitely let us know if that theory is right or not. You don't have to run perfect rpm's you just want them to stay around the same place all the way through your run. It is normal for the rpms to rev up a little on the very top of the run.

For example
A good shift would be

You come off the line 8800-8900-9000 and stay within that range until you hit your full shift and it may then over rev a little by 200 rpm. Depending how you are clutched and geared will determine what speed you hit your full shift at.
 
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Studs will change your rpm/clutch setup some when going from without to with studs. But once setup you shouldn't be seeing big fluctuations in rpm. If your sled hooks and spins and hooks again, you're gonna get a big drop in rpm, but that's not the fault of the clutching, the sled has to maintain traction or that's going to happen, that's just how it is. If you guys are running studs with 3/8" penetration what are u using for studs? 1.6xx" studs? 1.5" studs on a 1.25" track work great for all around riding. Like stated above I think a lot of the issue is the heel of the weights loaded to heavy and shifting too fast. I'd reposition the weight to the tip of the weights, I think you'll find the sled is a lot snappier and will maintain better rpm all thru the shift range. The beauty of this engine is you can be revving anywhere from 8600-9000 rpm and it's going to pull good, but shoot for the higher rpms when clutching on good conditions, then when it gets bad you're not sacrificing much if anything.
 
So if I take some of the heel weight off and put it on the tip, but keep the same amount of weight on there total you think that will help? Because the original setup I basically had 9 washers total, 7 in the heel and 2 in the tip... Now I have a total of 5 washers and a tungsten which is basically 7.5 washers (7.5 grams, 1 washer is 1 gram basically) so in theory I've went from a total of 9 grams original weight up to 12.5, so keep the 12.5 and just move it around?
 
I agree with Studroes. Best to test the clutching on a rolling start around 30 mph and have the rpms a little higher in good conditions so you still have decent rpms in poor
 
I'm going to switch to the 8dn belt, I've read a bunch on different sites to about guys seeing inconsistent numbers with the 8jp, also strongly thinking of getting the Orange pink orange spring unless you guys think it can be done with the blue silver blue... And then going to try keeping the same amount of weight just moving it around and putting some in the top vs. the heel
 
I would do that and one change at a time in the order you listed above.
 
Please post your results. Up until now I thought I was the only guy in the world with this problem. Now I know Im not alone. lol
 
I would go back to your original 6-1 wrap in the secondary when testing
 
oh and make sure you get the deflection set right on the 8dn. I have 3 washers in the secondary and the track just creeps at idle on a jack stand
 
I had the same problem with my 04 switchback. I over studded it and had too much penetration. I hatted the sled anyway so I sold it to my buddy and bought an F7. So I never figured out the clutching. We did remove the studs because he didn't want them and the sled worked great after that. Coincidence, Maybe.
 
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