09nytro
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The manual says finger tight then back off 1/4 turn !!!!lmao!!!!!!YamahaTim said:FAMILYMAN said:Could your eye sight be slipping with age?
That's my excuse! We need to tighten our tracks? Wth, it's brand new, thought I was good for at least four years.
Oh, no worries you are...
Tom was just asking, he doesn't need it done. It's really for me I was embarrassed to ask...
I just tighten until the bolt won't move anymore and then loosen it a 1/16 turn
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09nytro said:The manual says finger tight then back off 1/4 turn !!!!lmao!!!!!!YamahaTim said:FAMILYMAN said:Could your eye sight be slipping with age?
That's my excuse! We need to tighten our tracks? Wth, it's brand new, thought I was good for at least four years.
Oh, no worries you are...
Tom was just asking, he doesn't need it done. It's really for me I was embarrassed to ask...
I just tighten until the bolt won't move anymore and then loosen it a 1/16 turn
Lmao. That was funny.
YamahaTim
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MrSled said:09nytro said:The manual says finger tight then back off 1/4 turn !!!!lmao!!!!!!YamahaTim said:FAMILYMAN said:Could your eye sight be slipping with age?
That's my excuse! We need to tighten our tracks? Wth, it's brand new, thought I was good for at least four years.
Oh, no worries you are...
Tom was just asking, he doesn't need it done. It's really for me I was embarrassed to ask...
I just tighten until the bolt won't move anymore and then loosen it a 1/16 turn
Lmao. That was funny.
Have to have some humor!!
I get both adjusters even by measuring then just count turns till tension is right both sides same. No luck adjusting normally but I think it's from those noise reducing bump on track not flex causing the difficulty.
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cannondale27 said:I get both adjusters even by measuring then just count turns till tension is right both sides same. No luck adjusting normally but I think it's from those noise reducing bump on track not flex causing the difficulty.
I was thinking the same thing.. those bumps make it tough to do.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
MrSled said:cannondale27 said:I get both adjusters even by measuring then just count turns till tension is right both sides same. No luck adjusting normally but I think it's from those noise reducing bump on track not flex causing the difficulty.
I was thinking the same thing.. those bumps make it tough to do.
I was thinking it was my studs but it may be a combo of both for me , I make a half turn , nothing , make another half turn , then goes the other way , but if I just spin my track it goes from side to side just free spinning ....
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I would say if it is walking side to side and not just staying to one side it's probably good. It's going to walk back and forth some.
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I have just installed 4th wheel kit from Yamaha on my 2015 LTX SE and when I think i've got it back to normal I'm seeing that the right side is way to far over, clips rubbing on slider. So...I've checked track tension and it seems good but when trying to adjust the side that manual says to adjust it throws track tension way off again?? getting frustrated!!! Any ideas? Tried starting from scratch and not getting a good result.
Robinmaine
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I have just installed 4th wheel kit from Yamaha on my 2015 LTX SE and when I think i've got it back to normal I'm seeing that the right side is way to far over, clips rubbing on slider. So...I've checked track tension and it seems good but when trying to adjust the side that manual says to adjust it throws track tension way off again?? getting frustrated!!! Any ideas? Tried starting from scratch and not getting a good result.
I also added the OEM 4th wheel kit. What worked for me was to keep the bolts for the extra wheels very snug so they are as close as possible to the tight position as possible. I started with the track at the correct tension with the adjuster bolts equal on both sides I only did maybe a third of turn at a time. The adjusters ended up being an eighth inch difference when I was done. My guess is after a few hundred miles I will have to realign the track again because it had 1250mi without the extra wheels. I also ran the track quite a few revolutions before I made more adjustments. I hope this helps.
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I see this is an old thread, but I have a couple track alignment questions so hopefully this thread works for asking them. 2015 SR Viper M-TX 162, 366 miles on odo, just bought it, have never owned a snowmobile previously. Bought it to get more access to ski backcountry in Washington, it will be a 2 person machine. Please bear with questions that might be fairly simple, I have exactly one ride under my belt- ski buddy and I ran it up to Mt Baker last Saturday for some spring skiing on the mountain.
At the end of the day I noticed there was some black water staining coming from a riveted seam on the tunnel and a quick look underneath showed that the track was riding much closer, and rubbing slightly, on left side. So I figured it must need a quick alignment to center things up. Back at the my shop I suspended the rear to take a closer look and find that the track at the front is indeed off to the left side and that the drive gear teeth on the left side are not centered in the track "windows" and the little stainless clips are digging into the drive gear /cog. So I break out the wrenches and adjust the alignment till the drive gear/cog runs in the middle of the windows which also puts the track fairly evenly spaced in the tunnel. This seemed to "free up" the track as when I started the track would not spin at idle, but when idling after adjusting the track would spin right along. And the track ran quieter after adjusting, no clacking coming from the front where the SS clips were hitting the gear/ cog on the left side.
But, this seems to leave the track unevenly spaced in the back, and the right side is looser than the left. Probably 1.25" sag on right side in the middle and maybe 3/4" on left side. No weights on track, just rear of machine suspended.
If I align the track at the back and make sure the spacing at the hyfax is dead centered and sag is even on both sides then the track rides off to the left in front and will rub on tunnel and the SS clips really seem to whack the gear/cog.
So, align for even spacing at the rear or at the drive gear /cog in front?
Thanks for any expert knowledge
At the end of the day I noticed there was some black water staining coming from a riveted seam on the tunnel and a quick look underneath showed that the track was riding much closer, and rubbing slightly, on left side. So I figured it must need a quick alignment to center things up. Back at the my shop I suspended the rear to take a closer look and find that the track at the front is indeed off to the left side and that the drive gear teeth on the left side are not centered in the track "windows" and the little stainless clips are digging into the drive gear /cog. So I break out the wrenches and adjust the alignment till the drive gear/cog runs in the middle of the windows which also puts the track fairly evenly spaced in the tunnel. This seemed to "free up" the track as when I started the track would not spin at idle, but when idling after adjusting the track would spin right along. And the track ran quieter after adjusting, no clacking coming from the front where the SS clips were hitting the gear/ cog on the left side.
But, this seems to leave the track unevenly spaced in the back, and the right side is looser than the left. Probably 1.25" sag on right side in the middle and maybe 3/4" on left side. No weights on track, just rear of machine suspended.
If I align the track at the back and make sure the spacing at the hyfax is dead centered and sag is even on both sides then the track rides off to the left in front and will rub on tunnel and the SS clips really seem to whack the gear/cog.
So, align for even spacing at the rear or at the drive gear /cog in front?
Thanks for any expert knowledge
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I've never gotten it 100% right, but I've always had 2-wheel setup at the rear.
You could x-measure the tunnel and the boggie in case there's something off there.
I never worry too much about this, I just align the rear so there's minimal amount of wear all over.
My driver wheels have been worn down a bit but it stopped eventually.
You could x-measure the tunnel and the boggie in case there's something off there.
I never worry too much about this, I just align the rear so there's minimal amount of wear all over.
My driver wheels have been worn down a bit but it stopped eventually.
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10-4, I suppose just align as best as possible and aim for no track rubbing on the tunnel.
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I also get that black water staining on my 2020 gt, red tunnel doesn’t help the cause and now I know where it’s coming from lol..
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I don't understand the track alignment issue?
Set track tension.
Spin track to see what side has the largest gap between hyfax & clips.
Loosen axle nut, on that side only, tighten adjuster bolt a couple wrench turns, re-tighten axle nut.
Now this is key...manually, by hand, turn track forcing it so it's totally mis-aligned to the other side.
Spin track.
Observe if it comes back. If so, loosen axle nut on that side, tighten adjuster a little more, re-tighten axle nut.
Repeat until you find a happy medium. Track Will dance, side to side, a little.
We just don't want it totally slammed to one side.
10 minutes tops and you're ride ready.
First ride, I bring wrenches with in case a minor field adjustment is needed.
More times than not, it' fine as set on the stand.
Set track tension.
Spin track to see what side has the largest gap between hyfax & clips.
Loosen axle nut, on that side only, tighten adjuster bolt a couple wrench turns, re-tighten axle nut.
Now this is key...manually, by hand, turn track forcing it so it's totally mis-aligned to the other side.
Spin track.
Observe if it comes back. If so, loosen axle nut on that side, tighten adjuster a little more, re-tighten axle nut.
Repeat until you find a happy medium. Track Will dance, side to side, a little.
We just don't want it totally slammed to one side.
10 minutes tops and you're ride ready.
First ride, I bring wrenches with in case a minor field adjustment is needed.
More times than not, it' fine as set on the stand.
CDahl
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When aligned perfect at the rear hyfax area, the track rides to the left up front, and rubs on the tunnel, and the drive cog teeth are off to one side all the way in the windows of the track. I suppose like Norse mentions, something could be out of square....
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