Want HOT hands?..It can be done!!! EDITED FIRST POST

[NytroFIB]

Just thought I would post what I found from a search and ran into the hotgrips website.
It involves talk of a resistor.
Thought it may help?

Radio Shack Resistor Replacement
We don't sell replacement resistors for HOT GRIPS® simply because the cost to process an order and ship the resister would far exceed the actual value of the resistor. Fortunately, acceptable substitutions are readily available. The actual resistor we supply with Hot Grips® is a custom made 2.4 ohm resistor. That is not a standard value.

However, Radio Shack, among others has standard "power resistors" that can be wired to create an equivalent resistor. At Radio Shack, they have a 1 ohm / 10 watt resistor, part #271-131 (cost for two is $1.69). Using two of these resistors wired in "series" would give you a 2 ohm resistor which is a more than acceptable substitution. Using these resistors would result in a slightly warmer "low" setting.

Also available at Radio Shack are 10 ohm / 10 watt resistors, part #271-132 (cost for two is $1.69). You would need four of these resistors wired in "parallel" which would create a 2.5 ohm resistor. This is basically a perfect match for our stock resistor. In either case, the resistors should be supported and not allowed to "dangle" by their lead wires. Also, the resistors should be exposed to the outside air and not enclosed, mounted on a metal surface and not ever on plastic surfaces, because they get hot.

To find the resistors I have mentioned go to www.Radioshack.com. Click "parts, tools, & wire." Under the heading "component parts" - find and click "resistors". Under resistors click "Power Resistors". Here's a link for the resistors: http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp? ... 004&Page=1 Also, if for some reason Radio Shack is not convenient, almost any seller of electronic components would also have 1 and 10 ohm / 10 watt power resistors. These are standard values. (Resistors are often given a tolerance of 1, 5, 10 or 20%. In this application, any tolerance would be acceptable)

 

[f7 addict]

this makes me think yammies for 08 will be just as cold....not a good sign.

its funny how something so simple could make or break a new sled model....anytime I meet someone who is thinking about going 4 stroke and going apex,they all say same thing...

"I hear the handwarmers are terrible"


Yamaha,since you must obviously read these threads...you Must know that if you truly AIM to grab the #1 sled manufacturer marketshare,then you MUST resolve this issue....Leave us 06 AND 07 guys literally "out in the cold" is going to leave a sour taste in MANY peoples mouths.

how about a fix like My 06 bar fix but give us a resistor wiring harness which we can buy cheap?...that would make us ALL happy...and then no worries of CPUs.

the biggest thing that is Disturbing to me is the fact you start the Bulletin calling us all Internet Genuises(condescending,to all of us who have to make up ways to fix poor engineering)then you seem to end the bulletin with the same answer to alot of the problems,which is.."there is no problem".....you seem to think you corrected the issue and wont revisit the issue.

Only one thing to respond with...If the heaters worked well,then none of us genuises would be trying to change things.

Hope this doesnt offend anyone on this site..I just want to clearly state that the yammy 07 upgrade does not work...and we all are gonna do what we do,till they help out with something...

at least my hands have been warm now for near 3 weeks..and I hope I dont melt my CPU...but honestly Id rather have comfortable riding at this point and take chance on CPU.

Dan

37 frozen hand miles on my 07 rtx! i'm doing the 06 bar thing as of this evening. thanks DAN!

 

[NytroFIB]

could something like this work?





Variable Heat Controller


*
Our Most Popular Accessory

Works with ANY of our grips.

Infinitely Variable Heat - adjust your heat from zero to full or anywhere in-between

Simple Wiring. It doesn't get any easier than this. With only two wires to connect, there is no easier way to install a set of Hot Grips. One wire provides power to the controller and the other wire is connected to the grips. No resistor is required for low heat.

Fully Electronic - produces no noticeable heat. This controller is NOT a variable resistor or rheostat but an electronic control unit, technically classified as a pulse width modulator. Over 99% efficient.

WARNING: Requires DC Current - if your vehicle has a battery then you have DC current

Weatherproof - With an "O" ring on the shaft and the electronics fully sealed in epoxy this control unit is truly weatherproof

Meets SAE1455 requirements which are automotive standards for tolerance to dust, vibration, severe cycling, -40 degrees C to 85 degrees C., Voltage breakdown to spikes up to 600 volts. Reverse polarity protected.

Electronic circuit protection from damage or malfunction due to Reverse Polarity, Field Decay, RF Radiation, Load Dump (per SAE J1113a)

Special Pricing when purchased with a set of grips (First - add a set of grips to your cart)








Price: $42.00
(When purchased Separately)

Special - with a set of grips: $37.95
(add a set of grips to your cart to see this price)

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Ever look at an add on grip kit. They have been in the aftermarket catalogs for 20 years. So simple, on high it is just the grips switch and wires. On the low setting side of the switch, oh man now you got in the circuit a big ceramic resistor trying to reign in the power that the grips want to draw.

OK, so this was a thought I had a day or two ago, why not run the 06 grips off the battery and hook it up with a toggle (ON-OFF-ON) switch and the ceramic resistor? So you only have low and high settings! High should get real hot because the grips will see a full 12v.

Well, will this work?

Jon,

this was my first thought also,when the CPU issue arose...at least this way its simply an AD-ON system completely on its own....ofcourse we lose are nifty level switch on left hand but should result in hi and low more typical to our older sleds...which is alll good.

I also looked into the cartridge idea a few weeks back and sorta forgot about it after i hooked the 06 bars up....this would be another good idea run off the battery,to supplement the stock 06 setup....only thing that sucks is once again we are back to mods...even though these seem to be safer mods,mods nonetheless...

I just wonder how this all slipped thru the fingers of yammie engineers....seems crazy that such a huge issue from last year which must have had a whole team of yammy engineers working on the fix,could come with something that is basically as warm as 06s...I wonder if its just that the CPU/level switch can only handle so much power and they just made it as good as it can be with the cpu being this way...sound to me like the whole problem lies in the level/cpu switch adjustor...and maybe yammie just needs to get rid of the fancy level indictator and go back to hi/low switch for 08....I hope they fix it for the future at least....sooner or later ill want a new sled!..lol

dan

 

[Iceman57]

Just thought I would post what I found from a search and ran into the hotgrips website.
It involves talk of a resistor.
Thought it may help?

Radio Shack Resistor Replacement
We don't sell replacement resistors for HOT GRIPS® simply because the cost to process an order and ship the resister would far exceed the actual value of the resistor. Fortunately, acceptable substitutions are readily available. The actual resistor we supply with Hot Grips® is a custom made 2.4 ohm resistor. That is not a standard value.

However, Radio Shack, among others has standard "power resistors" that can be wired to create an equivalent resistor. At Radio Shack, they have a 1 ohm / 10 watt resistor, part #271-131 (cost for two is $1.69). Using two of these resistors wired in "series" would give you a 2 ohm resistor which is a more than acceptable substitution. Using these resistors would result in a slightly warmer "low" setting.

Also available at Radio Shack are 10 ohm / 10 watt resistors, part #271-132 (cost for two is $1.69). You would need four of these resistors wired in "parallel" which would create a 2.5 ohm resistor. This is basically a perfect match for our stock resistor. In either case, the resistors should be supported and not allowed to "dangle" by their lead wires. Also, the resistors should be exposed to the outside air and not enclosed, mounted on a metal surface and not ever on plastic surfaces, because they get hot.

To find the resistors I have mentioned go to www.Radioshack.com. Click "parts, tools, & wire." Under the heading "component parts" - find and click "resistors". Under resistors click "Power Resistors". Here's a link for the resistors: http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp? ... 004&Page=1 Also, if for some reason Radio Shack is not convenient, almost any seller of electronic components would also have 1 and 10 ohm / 10 watt power resistors. These are standard values. (Resistors are often given a tolerance of 1, 5, 10 or 20%. In this application, any tolerance would be acceptable)

Would the resistor in the link below work?

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?cat ... id=50WM2D0

 

[ROCKERDAN]

could something like this work?





Variable Heat Controller


*
Our Most Popular Accessory

Works with ANY of our grips.

Infinitely Variable Heat - adjust your heat from zero to full or anywhere in-between

Simple Wiring. It doesn't get any easier than this. With only two wires to connect, there is no easier way to install a set of Hot Grips. One wire provides power to the controller and the other wire is connected to the grips. No resistor is required for low heat.

Fully Electronic - produces no noticeable heat. This controller is NOT a variable resistor or rheostat but an electronic control unit, technically classified as a pulse width modulator. Over 99% efficient.

WARNING: Requires DC Current - if your vehicle has a battery then you have DC current

Weatherproof - With an "O" ring on the shaft and the electronics fully sealed in epoxy this control unit is truly weatherproof

Meets SAE1455 requirements which are automotive standards for tolerance to dust, vibration, severe cycling, -40 degrees C to 85 degrees C., Voltage breakdown to spikes up to 600 volts. Reverse polarity protected.

Electronic circuit protection from damage or malfunction due to Reverse Polarity, Field Decay, RF Radiation, Load Dump (per SAE J1113a)

Special Pricing when purchased with a set of grips (First - add a set of grips to your cart)








Price: $42.00
(When purchased Separately)

Special - with a set of grips: $37.95
(add a set of grips to your cart to see this price)

this sounds interesting...we could simply hook this into the system and I assume set it to LOWEST setting,then let our stock level switch do the rest....can you put a link to this please?

good work...I know if we all work together on this we can figure this out...hopefully we can take My idea and all these others to make the 06/07 harness idea safer for our cpus.

dan

 

[Tork]

Oh man this is great info from NytroFIB

Fully Electronic - produces no noticeable heat. This controller is NOT a variable resistor or rheostat but an electronic control unit, technically classified as a pulse width modulator. Over 99% efficient.

My electric vest (I use riding my motorcycle in the winter) has this type of control. On low it pulses about once every 3 seconds as you turn it up it pulses faster.

This is brilliant in that it is not a resisting device, it is a switching device. does the same thing as resisting, just does it smarter and smaller with less heat.

 

[SledFreak]

Hey Dan saw the bulletin today i love the first sentence THE GENUISES ON THE INTERNET HAVE FOUND AWAT TO ........... LOL too funny anyway they put in bold letters they will NOT BE COVERING CLAIMS TO COMPUTERS WITH MODDED HANDLEBAR WARMERS the last sentence though has me concerned they still claim there is nothing wrong with handlebar warmers and if the customer is complaining they are to bring it to dealer and have power checked to bars if they are still not satisfied i cant remeber them excact wording but along the lines of too bad soo sad LOL yikes

Maybe, they should test the handwarmers in the cold weather before releasing them to production, then none of this #*$&@ would be said and we would not have a 19 page post on TY. I can't believe they are not thinking there is a problem, but I guess we will follow the correct protocol and start reporting it to the dealers again. I want it fixed by Yamaha. So, all 06 AND 07 Owners, if you have complaints about your warmers, log it with your dealers now. They said there was not a problem last year rememeber.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Ok i found the link...any ideas guys what would be best way to hook this up?..im game to buy one and try it....would it go right into our main wire boot OK and just set it to low?
http://www.hotgrips.com/product_detail. ... ccessories

YES i see its a "timed switch" which means it turns it on HI power every few seconds depending on how hot you want it...Im not sure if this would work well within our stock setup or be only good for hooking up directly without the stock level switch involved...we really need an electrical engineer for this!..LOL

dan

 

[HAMMER]

OK, so this was a thought I had a day or two ago, why not run the 06 grips off the battery and hook it up with a toggle (ON-OFF-ON) switch and the ceramic resistor? So you only have low and high settings! High should get real hot because the grips will see a full 12v.

Well, will this work?

I believe it would work Jon, lets see what Hammer has to say.

Yes, that is what you get and do with an "aftermarket" grip kit. You could use a three-position switch (high-off-low) and two resistors, one for high setting, and one for the low to keep a handle on the current.

A resistor "restricts" current flow like a carburetor jet "restricts" fuel flow.

The cartridge setup looks like the "SAFE" way to go if you're worried. Yes, you'll have to make an effort to install them but the payoff is peace of mind.

Like I said a couple pages back, this thread is wearing thin on me, I'm not going to go through every possible combination and every possible scenario people can dream up. So please don't think I'm being rude when I don't respond. I've already made my decision.

8-Watts per grip at 1-bar
16-Watts per grip at 2-bars (same as stock)
24-Watts per grip at 3-bars (+1.3-Amps over stock shouldn't be an issue)

……I'm done.

 

[Iceman57]

Ok i found the link...any ideas guys what would be best way to hook this up?..im game to buy one and try it....would it go right into our main wire boot OK and just set it to low?
http://www.hotgrips.com/product_detail. ... ccessories

dan

Dan just splice it into the y/r wire in the 07 wire harness (power wire to the grips). I will be ordering one tomorrow.

 

[Tork]

Dan I think the cure has a good chance of being nailed right here.

Those are designed to go from the battery thru a fuse to the control then to the grips.

That is how my vest is too, my controller is a little different looking, I'll post a link on that...Dan, call hotgrips and see if it handles 11 amps

 

[ROCKERDAN]

OK, so this was a thought I had a day or two ago, why not run the 06 grips off the battery and hook it up with a toggle (ON-OFF-ON) switch and the ceramic resistor? So you only have low and high settings! High should get real hot because the grips will see a full 12v.

Well, will this work?

I believe it would work Jon, lets see what Hammer has to say.

Yes, that is what you get and do with an "aftermarket" grip kit. You could use a three-position switch (high-off-low) and two resistors, one for high setting, and one for the low to keep a handle on the current.

A resistor "restricts" current flow like a carburetor jet "restricts" fuel flow.

The cartridge setup looks like the "SAFE" way to go if you're worried. Yes, you'll have to make an effort to install them but the payoff is peace of mind.

Like I said a couple pages back, this thread is wearing thin on me, I'm not going to go through every possible combination and every possible scenario people can dream up. So please don't think I'm being rude when I don't respond. I've already made my decision.

8-Watts per grip at 1-bar
16-Watts per grip at 2-bars (same as stock)
24-Watts per grip at 3-bars (+1.3-Amps over stock shouldn't be an issue)

……I'm done.

LOL Hammer...you know Im with you on keeping them set to a few bars max.LOL..

but wouldnt it be nice to have a true fix that we can all use and not worry about.....Im not worried but there is always a tiny voice in my head when im well....lets say "watercrossing" that says,..."i hope my sled doesnt quit'!

LOL

 

[Iceman57]

Dan I think the cure has a good chance of being nailed right here.

Those are designed to go from the battery thru a fuse to the control then to the grips.

That is how my vest is too, my controller is a little different looking, I'll post a link on that...Dan, call hotgrips and see if it handles 11 amps

Tork, only problem with that hook-up is you will have to remember to turn off the grips when you shut the sled down. I will call Hot Grips tomorrow as well and see if the controller can be hooked-up to the current power wire to the grips.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Ok i found the link...any ideas guys what would be best way to hook this up?..im game to buy one and try it....would it go right into our main wire boot OK and just set it to low?
http://www.hotgrips.com/product_detail. ... ccessories

dan

Dan just splice it into the y/r wire in the 07 wire harness (power wire to the grips). I will be ordering one tomorrow.

this is exactly what i thought too..splice it inline with the yellow striped wire before the harness....But im wondering,this is a "timed switch" which does run HI power,but at certain times intervels to adjust temps...I am worried that even though its in timed seconds,it still is in HI mode when its ON between the OFF times...sorta hard to describe but i think you get my point....so will the CPU be OK with those HI times??...

I have a feeling the CPU level switch will only get HOT or FRY our computer IF its on hi too long...(sorta like leaving them below half)...IF that is a true statement,then this type "timed switch" should work well...and very possibly allow our stock level switch to be more like it was,with low being cool and hi being HOT....the pics of the rheostat look like its fairly small...maybe smal enough to mount near the BOOT wear the wiring harness lies...but i think it will need to be mounted nonetheless.

Keep me posted if anyone tries this as to how exactly this makes our stock switch react with heat levels.

Dan