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What exactly needs to be done to fit a 16" track under

Thanks guys.

Yup, I already sanded down the arms of the rear of rear suspension so they are lower than the idler wheels just inboard of them.

I removed the most forward nut plate and slotted the hole for a stove bolt. I would be easy to do that to the other two if need be right now.

I pressed off my extroverts. The side that the track had been running on was a bit chewed up from ratcheting with the extroverts so I pressed them off the shaft and turned them around. Now I see my press doesn't have the reach to press them back on so I may take them to auto hobby shop at the base today. If I was going to move the drivers a bit further to the outside to keep the 16" track from moving, how far out would I go. I'll just measure outside to outside on the track clip holes and put the drivers maybe a 1/16" in from that measurement on each side. I will actually have to get the track up in there to see how it rides side to side to make sure it's right though.

I also took off my drop down brackets and I am going to cut them off below the second hole. That will cut about 1/3 of each bracket off and maybe save another pound. I was glad I used 10/32 machine screws to put them on.

One last thing. I have to say I am very impressed with the rail extensions from Western Power Sports. They fit like a glove and the hardware actually had locking nuts. Now, I hope the 4 1/2" length is correct.

Thanks again for the help.

Frosty
 

Lee, I'm talking about sanding the drop brackets you are taking off today to cut down. You want to completely round the back edge (at least the inside edge) of them because the track rides very close to them and it can tear up your track edge. Sound like you're on the right track though!

Aaron
 
Ok Aaron, I understand now. I'll make sure the back edge is as smooth as a baby's butt.

I was talking about the aluminum billet arms that drop down on the M7 skid that I have seen rub on a track before. I sanded about 1/4" off the top of the arms and made the transistion nice and smooth.

Thanks

Frosty
 
I went ahead and sanded off the two extrusions sticking straight back off the front heat exchanger. This new track measures a full 2 1/2" in height including the belt of the track.

I also sanded the unused portion of all the rivets backs in the front part of the tunnel.

I went ahead and installed carriage/stove bolts in place of the forward two of the three chain case housing nut plates. As a matter of fact I used J.B. weld to adhere the bolts to their odd shaped holes I cut in the side of the tunnel to accept the square shank under the heads. I supported the shanks of the bolts while the J.B. weld is curing so they don't droop under their own weight. That way when I put it all together I won't have to try to get my hand in there with the 16" wide track.

I'll try to get some pictures.

Frosty
 
Oh, so you want some pictures, huh?

Ok, this first series of pictures will be of the carriage bolts cut to size from both inside and outside of the tunnel. They are JB welded in place to make installation of the chain case easier (I hope).

The black line is my best guess of where the inside of the track will travel based on setting the drive shaft and drivers in place and marking them.

Frosty
 

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Here's a picture of my rear suspension drop down brackets.

You'll notice the lines I scribed in both of them. Everything below the scribed line will be removed. I will be bringing them to work and putting them in the shear, cutting them off and sanding them smooth as a babie's butt.

I just couldn't see keeping the lower two holes in the drop down brackets when I will use them. So, off they go!

Frosty
 

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Here are my Western Power Sports rail extensions. I "heard" they are actually made by Vanamberg?

They fit well very well and I took my die grinder and cut off the bolts that stuck beyond the nut.

Frosty
 

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I've seen on other RX-1's with 16" wide tracks and an Arctic Cat skid that the track rubs on the rear of the rear suspension mount billet arm.

So I took a sander and sanded them off so the arms are below the level of the idler wheels.

I made sure to make the transition as smooth as possible and the surface nice and smooth.

Frosty
 

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My extroverts look like they have been locked in battle with a ratcheting track. They have!

I decided to turn them around to get another season out of them and the track can get a bite on some fresh plastic.

I wonder if I will need to put hose clamps on the plastic going around the shaft to keep them from spinning now?

Has anyone else ever turned extroverts around?

Frosty
 

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Here's a picture of my new (ok, slightly used) track. It's a Skidoo Challenger Lite. It's a 159 x 16 x 2 1/4". It measures a full 2 1/2 of you measure from inside the belt.

The Wyoming and Utah guys hated them and said they trenched like crazy in the early season fluff. Guess what, it's not early season fluff anymore and in the Pacific Northwest we very seldom see the light and fluffy (sugar snow, champagne powder) that they see in Utah.

I was really looking for a 16' wide x 159" finger track anyway. Something that hooks up hard and works great 85% of the time for my application. I

I guess we'll see how it works out.

If it doesn't work out well, I guess I can always use the sled for a Ditch Witch in the Summer.

Frosty
 

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Thanks Frosty!

I was wondering about where you put the carriage bolts. Very good and informative pictures! The pictures gave me the answer.
 
Ok guys, now I have a question for you.

As Aaron recommended I moved the extrovert drivers outward to try to keep the wider track from migrating from one side to the other.

I notice the square track holes that accept the extrovert portion of the drivers are 10" apart outside to outside.

I moved each of my drivers outward about 3/16" from where there were. My extroverts now measure 9 3/4" from outside to outside. That leaves me 1/8" on each side before the extroverts contact the track.

Is that too close?

Aaron or anyone else, do you have actual measurements on where the drivers should be placed on the driveshaft? I'd like to know how far from each end of the driveshaft the drivers should be placed and how far to have in between if anyone has it.

Thanks

Frosty
 


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