Im going to snow check tomorrow an ltx-le. They are going to stud it when it comes in. They recommend 1.325 Woody Signatures. 1.25 inch track. There putting on 196 per me. Im planning to do the turbo dynamic reflash kit. Thoughts are welcomed. Thank you.
KnappAttack
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If it were me.
I'd be doing 1.45" or 1.57" Megabites and only 128 or so. I have 192 of the 1.45" and I really didn't need that many. Traction lines and the pattern are more important than sheer quantity. I may pull out all the outsides for next season and get down to 144.
192 is overkill with the Rip2 IMO.
Here is my track now. I have sharpened the megabites but they have worn since new some. I cant keep the front end down with this setup and its just too much traction actually.
I'd be doing 1.45" or 1.57" Megabites and only 128 or so. I have 192 of the 1.45" and I really didn't need that many. Traction lines and the pattern are more important than sheer quantity. I may pull out all the outsides for next season and get down to 144.
192 is overkill with the Rip2 IMO.
Here is my track now. I have sharpened the megabites but they have worn since new some. I cant keep the front end down with this setup and its just too much traction actually.
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Turboflash
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IMO 1.325" studs on a 1.25" track won't "show" enough above lugs. Too short. Next time I stud a new track, I'm thinking of doing 160 center of track only. (I have 280HP tune now).
IMO you should have about 1/2" over lug height. I use 1.63 on my 1.25" Rip Saw II, currently with 192 studs. They hold up really good and don't hit anything in tunnel. Need to keep track snug (which is faster anyway). IMO sleds where studs are hitting stuff - track is too loose.
IMO you should have about 1/2" over lug height. I use 1.63 on my 1.25" Rip Saw II, currently with 192 studs. They hold up really good and don't hit anything in tunnel. Need to keep track snug (which is faster anyway). IMO sleds where studs are hitting stuff - track is too loose.
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So 1.325 is a no. They told me was the way to go. I knew it sounded short. Might be good for trail riding, but I want to grip on the lake too
Turboflash
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"They" all say 3/8" over lug. That's their boilerplate talking to protect themselves. Allot of it depends on how you ride. If you spin over concrete curbs, rocks, and over logs and stumps, nothing will hold up. If you pay attention to what your track is running over, and manage the smile flipper appropriately, then studs at 1/2" and even longer will be fine. In a season of riding I might have to replace 5-10 studs mostly because the tip (carbide) broke off not because the stud broke or it tore through track. I keep it fresh all the time. On my setup, with 1/2" over lug, it hooks up great.
ROCKERDAN
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1.450s are safe and bite well with 1.25 rip2.
Stick with up the middle only IMO, loved my 2/4/2/4 pattern.
Megabites or gold diggers, dont use signature series they suck!
Dan
Stick with up the middle only IMO, loved my 2/4/2/4 pattern.
Megabites or gold diggers, dont use signature series they suck!
Dan
Wonder what the price difference will be if I say gold diggers or megabites over signature series. They told $900 to install 192 with tunnel protectors signature series.
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SS are cheap and really poor studs. Go with less qty and better quality.
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Thanks Mike. Is this your own pattern, or do you use a template?If it were me.
I'd be doing 1.45" or 1.57" Megabites and only 128 or so. I have 192 of the 1.45" and I really didn't need that many. Traction lines and the pattern are more important than sheer quantity. I may pull out all the outsides for next season and get down to 144.
192 is overkill with the Rip2 IMO.
Here is my track now. I have sharpened the megabites but they have worn since new some. I cant keep the front end down with this setup and its just too much traction actually.
View attachment 148171
KnappAttack
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Thanks Mike. Is this your own pattern, or do you use a template?
Its my own pattern. Kinda overkill though, guess it the drag racer in me yet. I always use my own patterns for best traction and try to minimize cords being cut etc. I also prefer double backers and try to minimize single backers which don't hook as hard and tend to rip out easier.
You don't want the traction lines too close so studs fall into a close grove. Also I build a pattern that does not want to J hook if it does spin. Typical wedge or v-patterns want do do just that.
Turboflash
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KnappAttack can you please describe more about what "J hook" is? I'm not familiar with that term (I don't get out much LOL). Why do wedge or v-patterns do it?
Thanks!
Thanks!
KnappAttack
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KnappAttack can you please describe more about what "J hook" is? I'm not familiar with that term (I don't get out much LOL). Why do wedge or v-patterns do it?
Thanks!
Grabbing a handful of throttle and spinning out and hooking left or right. Typical v-patterns promote this because the studs get stuck in the same rut and causes it to washout on the holeshot rather than driving out straight. You know the sleds that have the v-patterns when they take off and look at the scratch lines they leave behind in the ice.
Turboflash
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Ok thanks. How about if one moves double backers around so there is as many scratch lines as possible? Make sure they don't follow lines from studs in front of them? Most studding patterns do repeat it's just a question of how many different lines you can get on the ground at once without repeating. Mine probably only repeat every 10 bars and by then the sled has moved ahead enough so none of them are sitting in a line from studs in front of them. Should be good enough for trail riding anyway.
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Well I ordered mine today. They will be installing 144 down the middle. 1.45 megabits. Probably wont be double backers or v pattern. What should I say in the fall to make sure its done the right way?
Turboflash
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Ask them soon to show you the pattern they intend to use? Want as many scratch lines as possible.
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