What studs? Snow Check

Just a heads up on removing studs. I have seen guys do this only to see the track come apart soon after. IMHO
 
Why so?
Have they hindered your turning ability or been more prone to ripping out than the inside studs?


It has too much traction plain and simple. I’ve never ripped out studs on any sled ever, even studding the outside bands on single ply doo tracks.
 
Just a heads up on removing studs. I have seen guys do this only to see the track come apart soon after. IMHO


I’ve done it often with no ill effects.

The studs don’t hold the track together, quite the opposite actually, the added weight of the studs try’s to tear it apart. There’s a proper way to stud tracks to keep them intact, minimize cutting cords, tighten studs tight into the shoulder hard, and use the proper studs, backers and nuts to minimize weight.
 
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1.45 is plenty of length. Good choice on length. A lot of opinions on length and outside windows or stay in? I personally like going outside the windows. But at 144 they will be staying in the middle band. You could always ride it and THEN go outside the windows and see and feel the difference. Or maybe you will be happy with what you start with. Do what you like and feel. A lot of GREAT guys on this site with good info but all of us have the best set ups!
 
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I also spring checked an ltx. I’m putting 1.630 triggers 2/4/2/4 all double backers. In my experience the trigger is the best. Pricey but unreal penetration and traction and very very durable.
 
I have been using 96 1.45 Woodys Grand Master and sharpened Grand Master Pro studs (mixed 48 of each) the past 2 years with the big Grandmaster round aluminum backer with great results. Only a few broken carbide tips each year (Lots of roads and rocks).These studs have bigger heads for very little deflection and are also very thin with shorter shoulders so they suck up really well. I have 16 scratch lines in the center and my sled actually hooks up really well and turns well in the trails. When I studded my sled I figured I could go up to 144 easily by doing the outside if I needed more traction. I have low rotating weight and good traction. There is no harm with starting light on the studs and adding more as needed. Just make sure you use a pattern that maximizes your scratch lines and you can easily add more studs to if needed.
 
I have been using 96 1.45 Woodys Grand Master and sharpened Grand Master Pro studs (mixed 48 of each) the past 2 years with the big Grandmaster round aluminum backer with great results. Only a few broken carbide tips each year (Lots of roads and rocks).These studs have bigger heads for very little deflection and are also very thin with shorter shoulders so they suck up really well. I have 16 scratch lines in the center and my sled actually hooks up really well and turns well in the trails. When I studded my sled I figured I could go up to 144 easily by doing the outside if I needed more traction. I have low rotating weight and good traction. There is no harm with starting light on the studs and adding more as needed. Just make sure you use a pattern that maximizes your scratch lines and you can easily add more studs to if needed.

I have only read a few who have run 'grand' style studs on a 2 ply track. Just wondering, do they bottom out when impacted down, right down to the shoulder, the same way a GD or megabite normal stud does? I always thought running the grand master would be a good idea, I loved them on my DOO single ply tracks, very tough and very little deflection with the large heads.

thanks
Dan
 
They suck down nicely . Just a little further than a 2 ply stud. I zapped them with an impact and did a half turn with a 3/8 ratchet by hand till it bottomed. Heads are nice and flush with the track. Just keep in mind that the huge head does change placement when next to each other. Not sure they make double backers for the grand masters if you like that kind of backer.
 


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