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Where Can I put Extra Wheels


MountainMax said:
What about cutting down the track? i would be happy with a 1.75" track , it should help when in harder pack trails too right? there are no mountains where I live, I just wanted to buy a large sled and long track to keep my heavy #*$&@ afloat.......

I trimmed off a 1/2'' on the nytro mtx i found the lugs turned back a lot and i'm same as you don't ride the mountains just wanted a longtrack and 1 3/4'' is lotts.
 
Yeah good save too if i wouldn't of cut off that 1/2'' i would need a new track this year forsure. To be honest i'm not a lover of the maverick.
 
Rob,

There is a place in the center just below the upper rear shaft that you can install on shaft between the rails and press some 5.38 wheels on. You will need the bolts and C-clips as well.

You would want to pick up that center shaft and (8) 5.38 wheels. Replace them all. That sled has a 16 inch wide track. I have a 162 X 15 cat track on mine.The 15 wide track reduces alot of rotating mass and the lugs were cut down to 1 inch. this will eliminate any hyfax wear due to the longer track. Cutting to a 1 inch lug makes it trail friendly, greatly helps top end and loses weight.

Trust me man, 162 X 15 X 1 is plenty!!! if your not going to the mountains.

I installed stock Attak clutching with 24/38 gears.

the sled really rips on the trail and is alot of fun to ride. It boon dock very well too.
 
wow, that thing must fly tom with 24/38 gears, I have a set of wheels already to moint inside where you said, and two sets of marginal wheels on order for up front and out back and cutting of the track will be real soon
 
The stock drivers are 7 tooth 3.00 pitch so they are about equal to an 8 tooth driver.

I probably could find a 25 tooth but I am plenty happy the way it is. With stock gearing you will be lucky to get 100 MPH out of it and will over-rev terribly with the stock weights. I got 118 on the speedometer in Munising with this set-up and 1 inch lug track.


Heres what I put in mine.

Weights: 8FP-00 w/17.2 all holes

Roller Type: 14.5mm

Helix: 51/43

Primary Spring: Y-S-Y

Secondary Spring: White @60 (might try it @ 70 if your a big guy)
 
I already sized up making it wider, and i have the sea level kit with 22 top gear, instead of 20 stock, and the better helix and weights, not sure on the secondary spring, yeah im a heavy guy and like having it wound up a little tighter for better backshifting, time will tell as i play with the weights forsrue.
 
top gear selection?

MountainMax said:
I already sized up making it wider, and i have the sea level kit with 22 top gear, instead of 20 stock, and the better helix and weights, not sure on the secondary spring, yeah im a heavy guy and like having it wound up a little tighter for better backshifting, time will tell as i play with the weights forsrue.
>>>
You sure it's running the 22 top gear? That's what a lot of the shorty's are running, most all Mnt. sleds run a 20 or 19tooth top. If you want it wound up and real snappy then you want the 19 tooth gear (lower geared), this will pull like a frieght train up to about 88MPH and that's all it will get. This will also achieve a 50MPH track speed in the steep and deep where the high gears will not hold that high a track speed when climbing....cheers. ;)!
 
Yes, I seen the sheet that came with the sea level kit and it showed me the differences stock and kit, and it was 20 tooth top , now has 22, was 45 degree helix i think now it has 51/43 i think, I'll have to find the sheet and scan it for you guys, and they gave me all the old parts, oh yea stock was 15mm rollers and they went down to 14's ( i didn't like this and will change them back )
 
curious

MountainMax said:
Yes, I seen the sheet that came with the sea level kit and it showed me the differences stock and kit, and it was 20 tooth top , now has 22, was 46 degree helix i think now it has 51/43 i think, I'll have to find the sheet and scan it for you guys, and they gave me all the old parts, oh yea stock was 15mm rollers and they went down to 14's ( i didn't like this and will change them back )
>>
I'm interested now....let us know what track speeds your getting in powder with a steep climb!
 
Sure will, there are three others like mine in the near community and they go in the local mountain range with no problems, but it will be spring before I get down there......
 
clutching

MountainMax said:
Sure will, there are three others like mine in the near community and they go in the local mountain range with no problems, but it will be spring before I get down there......
>>>
I'd really like to hear there feedback (and yours) on what RPMS they are holding on climbs with that set up at what elevation and the snow condition. I currently run a 19 top with reverse. I have a set of the Hauck weights and a shockwave helix. I ride from sea level to 6000 feet in one day a lot of the time, this is why I went with the shockwave to have that easy adjustability. I can set the shockwave to run 10900 or 11000 at sea level and then when I'm around 5000 feet it's turning right at 10,100 so I turn it in one turn and I'm back at 11000, then once I drop back to lower elevation I turn it out one turn and I'm not bouncing off the rev limiter, takes about 2 minutes to adjust.
I'm seriously considering going with a set of the Drag-n-Fly weights with the shockwave and see how it works. I have a stock primary and secondary spring and secondary is twisted to 100 degrees, helps keep that backshift snappy. I'd like to hear as much feed back as possible on these 4 strokes because I strongly feel they aren't clutchable with the same parameters as a two stroke.
 
here are the changes made to the 'Sea Level Kit'
 

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