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Who's using what oil?

LazyBastard said:
Stormbringr1 said:
:D Say what? These close tolerance high performance engines of today are broken in well within the break-in schedule profiled by the manufacturer... That means 500 miles...not 10,000+.
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Nope. 500 miles is not the breakin distance. Its the safe-to-sustain distance. Proven by the fact that they keep getting stronger up to about 1500 miles. That means that the full breakin is probably about 2000 miles.
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I agree with that!
 

upfront said:
I use Yamaha's Synthetic 5w30 for the first oil change but I would like to use Mobil 1 for the same reason that LB described, higher molecular cohesion though a wider temperature range.
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and its easy to find mobile 1 oil and its been tested and prooven by many to be one of the best..
 
Alright now who was saying that the new 05s all had the yamalube S oil in the factory fill, I am down here in phoenix prepping for a race and dont have my 05 manual in front of me, but i am almost sure that the 05s came with the S in them.

I may also have read it in snow tech?

BTW My 03 drank oil like a detroit silver 92, have had better luck with the 05.
 
Ow-40 M1 is an absolute awesome motor oil for this application. From the extensive reading that I've done on different oils, This oil probably beats them all.

You have a synthetic motor oil that does not require VI improver additives and maintains good lubrication qualities at low temps. Also, many people should know that TRUE synthetic oils do not need "pour point depressants to remain liquid in
extreme cold temps because they do not contain wax like their petroleum based counterparts.

Many people use a 20w50 in high performance high rpm motors but because of the cold temps that we ride in it is important to note that that does not suit our application. The next best thing in my opinion is to go with the 0w40 synthetic. There is way to much info on this subject for me to even get into any detail but whoever goes to this link and reads this ebook will no longer have any questions about motor oil.

www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf
 
Yes, i know oil (Own a Quick Lube) 0-40M1 is the best for are application! 20w50 WAY to think!! :Rockon: ;)! :flag:


Skydog
 
zoomzoom said:
Ow-40 M1 is an absolute awesome motor oil for this application. From the extensive reading that I've done on different oils, This oil probably beats them all.

You have a synthetic motor oil that does not require VI improver additives and maintains good lubrication qualities at low temps. Also, many people should know that TRUE synthetic oils do not need "pour point depressants to remain liquid in
extreme cold temps because they do not contain wax like their petroleum based counterparts.

Many people use a 20w50 in high performance high rpm motors but because of the cold temps that we ride in it is important to note that that does not suit our application. The next best thing in my opinion is to go with the 0w40 synthetic. There is way to much info on this subject for me to even get into any detail but whoever goes to this link and reads this ebook will no longer have any questions about motor oil.

www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf
Click to expand...

I have been using Mobil 1 15W-50 for the past 11 years in Motorcycles, ATV's and in my Warrior for the past 2 years. It was originally designed for extreme service vehicles and High Performance, High Revving cars. It has gotten rave reviews when tested in Motorcycles and if you look at the label it tells you that it pours down to -50 degrees. It has been time tested by me and I give it my stamp of aprooval! ;)!
 
Bob, I agree with you that M1 15w50 is a high performance motor oil however you must be VERY CAREFUL with the 15w portion of the oil. I know the pour point on that is -50 but that only means in -50 degrees when the bottle is turned upside down for 5 seconds that the oil will show signs of trickling down the bottle.

This means that the pump point is closer to -25 to -30 degrees. Now if you happen to ride in Canada then you know that it's not out of the question for the temps to fall that low. Do you really want to start your sled in the morning right around that point where the oil is barely pump-able.

Think about it!

zoom
 
I've read that most lubrication damage occurs in cold weather during the first 3-5 minutes of operation.

Mostly caused by insufficient warm-up of the oil.

Also, here's something I've done with my equipment for years religiously and I KNOW it's beneficial.

On cold morning prime sled (or any vehicle) by turning engine over for 5-7 seconds before starting. This primes the oil pump and precoats cylinder walls.

zoom
 
Alright :shock: why dosent yamaha put a block heater on there 4 strokes , I have always wanted to put one on but would prefer a block heater instead of a cheesy hose mounted after market pos.
 
Shaf
Not to hi-jack the thread, but the inline hose heater DOES work, even though it looks kind of cheesy.
At -20 C, the engine only cranks about 1 revolution to start; and that's with no choke, and the cold light doesn't even flash!

Regardless, I want something thinner than 15w for cold starts, but next year I'm going with something with a thicker 'warm' rating than 30.
 
Esso 0-30 or 0-40 semi synthetic best of both worlds no leaks from shrinking seal etc. If you use 100 % synthetics do it from day 1 or you may run into leaks down the road. Yamalube is esso oil with additives added at yamaha's recomendation.Good stuff as well.
 
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