lrioux
Extreme
wondering if anyone has tried to run a slightly longer belt, what were the results and why would you guys running these?
MOUNTY
Expert
what kind of belt? Drive (clutch), blower, garder??
lrioux
Extreme
drive belts. ive heard about guys doing this in some racing but dont know the reasons behind this. i'm talking only a few mm longer than stock.
In racing the higher the belt rides in secondary the lower the over all drive ratio is. So you can run a tooth or 2 higher in gear and make up the difference in longer belt. As long as the clutch doesn't slip.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
So you would have to add shims (washers) to the secondary adjuster bolts to pick up the extra slack from the longer belt by pushing the belt up, I presume?aja636 said:
Yes. As long as belt is same width and just longer, adjust the secondary to keep deflection right.
SteelerJim
Expert
I have been getting a new longer belt every couple of years because I run out of holes in the current one I'm sporting.......wait, wrong belt.
I've heard of some guys on the new turbo cats running 1/2" longer belts. It keeps them from blowing every hundred miles.
I've heard of some guys on the new turbo cats running 1/2" longer belts. It keeps them from blowing every hundred miles.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
The thing I am wondering, isn't the only way the longer belt will get all the way to the bottom of the secondary at WOT is if the belt is almost going over the top on the primary?
belt will only go as far as primary pushes. In the extreme case it could walk out, but your gearing has to be low to force that. making clutches over shift or oengine is over revving(meaning out of gear)
Its really splitting hairs. Going a touch longer belt is an easy way to correct gearing for different races.
Mainly if your gear a touch high for the given distance, you can use a bit longer belt to lower the clutch ratio to make up for it.
It all comes down to over all drive ratio. Clutches, gearing, drivers, all effect that ratio. Belt choices can as well.
Ideally you want to run out of gear at the end of your race, or just a touch past it. So the sled is pulling all the way through the finish line. Thats why people use the marker trick on the clutch faces to show how far the belt is shifting out on the sheave. Gear down until you get the belt to the top of the drive clutch(or all the marker is gone from sheave).
Some set ups are to gear a touch high for good top end MPH, and when racing go with a touch longer belt to lower ratio in clutches to act like a lower gear.
Personally, I dont like to do this, I would rather get clutches at the proper set up and right belt and change gearing for what your doing.... But I tested this on my old Z1 Turbo, with the Diamond drive, the biggest gear set would be to soft out of the hole, and would run out of gear on big runs. So a touch longer belt woke up the low end and on the big end I let the motor over rev a bit to keep MPH up for the bigger gears...
Its really splitting hairs. Going a touch longer belt is an easy way to correct gearing for different races.
Mainly if your gear a touch high for the given distance, you can use a bit longer belt to lower the clutch ratio to make up for it.
It all comes down to over all drive ratio. Clutches, gearing, drivers, all effect that ratio. Belt choices can as well.
Ideally you want to run out of gear at the end of your race, or just a touch past it. So the sled is pulling all the way through the finish line. Thats why people use the marker trick on the clutch faces to show how far the belt is shifting out on the sheave. Gear down until you get the belt to the top of the drive clutch(or all the marker is gone from sheave).
Some set ups are to gear a touch high for good top end MPH, and when racing go with a touch longer belt to lower ratio in clutches to act like a lower gear.
Personally, I dont like to do this, I would rather get clutches at the proper set up and right belt and change gearing for what your doing.... But I tested this on my old Z1 Turbo, with the Diamond drive, the biggest gear set would be to soft out of the hole, and would run out of gear on big runs. So a touch longer belt woke up the low end and on the big end I let the motor over rev a bit to keep MPH up for the bigger gears...
SteelerJim said:
Not 100% sure on why, but my opinion on the A/C guys is that the stock primary is binding up and snapping belts in half. Also longer belts are not the answer for the cats, they are ballooning on deceleration and hitting the guards and ripping apart. Sadly the fix for A/C clutches is to replace primary with what ever choice of billet clutch and replace guards with a belanger, or OSP set up and get rid of the A/C junk. And as always you need to support engine and jackshaft with added bracing.
Another 2000-2500 on top of the price of sled..... But ask a A/C guy....they are the best sled on the snow!!!! They might have the best motor for making big Power easy, but far from best everywhere else.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Thank you very much aja636 for the detailed explaination, it all makes sense to me nowaja636 said:
lrioux
Extreme
great info aja thanks a lot. you are right on the cats snapping belts in two, i've seen/heard that happen to a few cat guys. one buddy blew a hole in 2 panels on his brand new 1100 turbo. the ballooning effect happens on deceleration and does hit the guard as mentioned. I noticed that on my 2011 apex also, the previous owner had installed a spare belt holder and placed the rivets directly in the path of the belt, I found out that the belt was touching the rivets and peeling the top of them on deccell.
