why the f is my mcx apex popping

I feel kind of lost now what to do, a primary spring I guess but more or the same preload? 35kg more or less totall force? 118kg and what angle on the shockwave, 45? I run straight since that was the recommendation I got for climbing and that progressive would be to heavy. Also a new helix would cost me to much at this point.
 
Well talked to Ntc here in Sweden, a well known Company for turbo sleds, he recommended silver green silver or green green green to get it to bite the belt and get a fixed helix 43 since they were not that satisified with shockwave.

I ordered the ggg , then will see what rpm I will see , i didnt order the 43 helix since i want to be able to go higher in number if the 2gr extra i have for the weights wont be enough to hold down the rpm.

I also ordered the dalton red secondary if the first part dont work out for me. but what are the spec for dalton red.

Or do you guys believe the 51/43 will work with the new primary spring, i remembered rxrider likes the multiangle but cant se any longer sled use them.
 
With that super stiff AC secondary you have serious slippage in the primary.
I run the Dalton Red secondary With 56/46 helix.
 
RX RIDER:
As said, i ordered the red Dalton for secondary.

Im also curious how come you recomend 54/44 helix and not a straight example 43,44 or 45?

As you all know i run a 144 with 2" paddle. I run quite alot trail and the sides of it, but when i can i hit the hills and deep snow.

And as i been told a multihelix dont work well there?

Also i get a high number in the start will hold down the rev so it wont hit revlimiter on wot but wont it also give the primary a harder time to grip the belt, because lower number better sideforce right?


KVIPER:

wow 56/44 steep start what track are you running and what enviroment.

Also what sec spring are you running and setting. I ordered up ggg primary spring 40kg-131 and the red secondary spring from dalton.

PS. I still got the 51/43 if that would be a better fit if going for multiangle.
 
If you can keep it off the rev limiter run a straight helix.
I can't, that's why I run a 56/46 Helix.
My track is 144 x 1.5 and I run 25/38 gearing.
Power is 350 HP.
 
I run a 128" x 1.25", the driven spring is from a friend and he won't even give me the spec's on it.
When you run a shallow cam it makes the driven clutch more torque sensitive under load. That means it's trying harder under load to close the driven clutch (shift down). So you need a lot of weight in the primary to keep it shifting up = a lot of load on the belt as rxrider said, probably the reason you are blowing belt's.
I would go to a 56/44 or so than start pulling weight to get the WOT shift RPM you want. Monitor clutch temp and control backshift and
Clutch temp with driven spring and wind. Probably will need a pretty good spring though.
 
Well after reading your answers and ty tech corner, a straight helix seems to works best for me and tuning.

I'm just gonna throw in the Dalton red at 6-2 instead of arctic green and the new ggg 40-131 instead of ysy 35-118 primary and see were the rpm will land and the temp on the sheaves, and go from 42 to max 45-46 on the shockwave helix, if I need to get down rpm more then that i should get a progressive 54/44 for example. Since already having 83gr total weight.
Does that someone about out right?
 
also float or fixed sheave, i hear both 15 18.5 depending on messure..
 
I would leave the secondary floating, 2-3 mm free play on the spline is the spec.
Keep the off-set as Close to 15 mm as possible. Spec is 13.5-16.5 millimeter if I remember it correctly.
And the most important is the alignment of the primary and secondary sheaves aka the parallellity of the engine and the drive shaft.
 
was just the paralellity i was thinking on if locking it, some people seem to believe it cant align correct under load with float. causing heat and wear.

My float settings are up to spec.
 
Well..... Ski-Doo have run locked secondary for ages and they blow belts. I just don't buy that one, that you need a locked Down secondary.
The engine has to be in Perfect alignment With the secondary shaft.
This has to be checked every season at least once on a turboed sled.
 
Holy sh #$%&* this gets very complicated.... I was thinking of up grading my clutch parts but now I just feel lost after reading this thread.
Touché to whoever fixes this problem!
Sorry to barge in......

Barry
 
picking up the ggg primary today, dalton red is in the secondary at 44 deg 6-2.
Marked both sheaves with pen to see that it shifts full out. also a ir tempgauge in the pocket.

So im ready for setup in the weekend.

No worries Ghost rider, go for it.

when you say alignment rxrider i assume you mean offset since the enginemounts are solid on apex.
'
If not, whats the c-c numbers.267.5 mm ?
 
No problems ghost rider

No they are not solid, but they are adjustable.
Both in the front and the rear of the engine.
 


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