why the f is my mcx apex popping

[Jona$]

interesting, the once up front look like a hell to get to.

anyways this is what i got i believe im good.

 

[Jona$]

Made a run with the springs in and helix at 44.
the runs were made at the sea because its only there i have chance to get any grip, it was -4c.

It hauls as in the middle and seem to hit 10200
and temps were
primary:53
secondary:49
belt:62
after wot runs.

should i set the helix at 42 and gain 200rpms or weights?

Primary

Secondary:

So:
1.temps good?
2.shifting good?
3.to raise rpm?

 

[rxrider]

Never tune max RPMs in the secondary.
Adjust RPMs in the primary.
If you make the secondary even harder to shift out you're not going to get full shift out.
Remove tip weight to gain RPMs at top speed.
Remove mid weight to gain RPMs at mid speed.

PMed you.

 

[Jona$]

well after a talk and got a better understanding how it works i took of the weights and realized i was wrong with the weight settings:

tungsten,tungsten 3,tungsten 4,3 total 89g



This is what i ended up with due to that i didnt have any more 1gr shims "ordered up"

tungsten,tungsten 4,4 1,1


Now to the point, i removed total 7g and that made the world. the sled is so much more on the go now. But at wot the revlimiter kicks in, then drop to what i can see around 10500, but sometimes even 10000 but can that really be true?
but it seem to hold when using launchcontroll.

I took some real highspeed runs and then checked the temp on prim,sec and belt.

What i got was when messured on the inner sheaves:
primary 66 at the center,46 outer
secondary 43
belt around 50

but the numbers are probly higher, got 75 at the inner on the primary at the intital reading.

So whats up with the big rpm drop will hitting wot gives revlimiter.
Any to worry of the temp? was around -2c outside

 

[rxrider]

You have to get it off the rev limiter.

When it hits the rev limiter the ignition cuts out partially and you get a big drop in HP until the RPMs drops below the rev limiter, that causes the dip in RPMs.

Do you run a Shockwave helix?
If so is it a multiangle or a straight helix?

I would recommend a multiangle helix to take care of the initial over rev situation.

What is you RPMs on full throttle and max speed?

What is Your RPMs doing thru the shift out on it's way to full speed?

 

[Him]

I have Supertips 60 with tungsten, tungsten, 3, 4, 2, 2 = 85g

51/43 Roller secondary, original springs in both clutches.

 

[Jona$]

Rxrider:
Yes i run a straight shockwave set at 44deg.
The only one i have in multi angle is the 51/43.

So you dont longer believe in straight? i mean i have alot more to weight on.

as for all rpm and speed, its hard to se since the sea has big parts of snow making it bumpy and kinda dangerous.

But as i saw full rpm full throttle seemed to be around 10500 and max speed i didnt get up to, let of around 170kmh due to the snow.

it seem to back of, but i believe i need to take a few more turns tomorrow and also try out the 51/43?

 

[Jona$]

Tried out both, the straight 44 i really cant read since it so many diffarations, probably because of revlimiter?

The 51/43 made big diffrence out the hole but still revlimiter over that, the sled also got boring and felt heavy with the 51/43, got up to 176kmh then backed down.

But Damn they are diffrent the 51/43 works really well on the low end , espacially when using launchcontroll at 0.4bar, holy cow

But the 44 seem better were it's tight and more technical/boondocking.

Both need more to get rid of revlimiter

 

[rxrider]

I swear by the multiangles because they are the only ones keeping my sled off the rev limiter.
I run a 56/46 kinda steep, but that is what it takes to keep it off the limiter, run 1.5 BAR pressure and around 350 HP. I run 25/28 gearing.

Try adding a tungsten and 3 grams (10 grams total) in the middle, you may have to remove tip weight. Then run the two helixes.

Maybe a 53/43 helix will cut it.

What gearing do you run?

 

[Jona$]

yeah its hard to decide, both straight and multiangle have their pro and cons.

If i remember correct its 22/38

so going back to my old weightsetup but with only 2g in the tip, so 84g.

so hard with multiangels, cant afford buying helixes all the time

 

[rxrider]

I can hear you on the cost of helixes.
You may only need one, there is an adjustable multiangle shockwave helix available.
I think it's 8 degree spread, like the 51/43.
Straight and Multi, they have their ups and Downs for sure.
The straight is great for snappiness, but won't help you much avoiding the initial over rev keeping it off the limiter.
The multiangles does help in kepping you off the rev limiter, but shifts fast to higher clutch ratio giving a more slow feel.
I can assure you that in a drag the multi is no way slow
But it all Depends on riding style, I agree 100% on that.

 

[Jona$]

 

[rxrider]

The Dalton R helixes have a short initial steep angle that goes into a straigt very early leaving only a short portion of the helix With a steep angle. Maybe that is what you need.
Multiangles have a continous transition from the start angle to the end angle.
The R's are more two straights in one With a very short transition between the two straights.

I have no experience With them but they look much like the helixes we ran in the SRX700 back when we were dragracing 1998-2002. We ran Micke Norstrøm's helixes which were cut out of Stock Yamaha helixes but With a steep start angle that went straight just like the R's does.
We have a few trophies under Our belt
I contributed as a mechanic and was the guy that kept the books on what the sled did.
Clutching, belts, jetting, suspension setup you name it.

 

[Jona$]

yeah i get whats the diffrence, just not sure if its the best for me.
If the straight to max 45deg and max 90g dont work out.
But tomorrow will tell, start by doing what we discussed last about the weights.

if i can, i run the straight. Because its a better match for my riding with it beeing more responsive, and just shift to multi when dragracing.

Holy you live high up in Norway, to bad. Good help is allways needed.

Thanks// Jonas Andersson

 

[Jona$]

had some backfiring when rolling down to stop or more like bang. Pulled the launch active signal controller and did another run. It hauled #*$&@ and hold 10500 för a few seconds before dropping down to 9500, it feels like its stuttering at a Long wot, not fast pulls. 

It always holds 1.0bar and Believe i saw about 10afr on that run. its like hitting a wall

Spark plug? Flex pipe? This has never happend before, but Believe this is what i feelt last time, just that its much worse this time. Also it ran on 3cyl the other day due to the launchcontroll activating, "later i changed it to neg and used a relay" took it of and it came back to 4 a while after.the header is the stainless one.

Bought new org plugs and put them at 0.020 "0.5mm"
I also did tear down the sled and checked the donuts,like new.put it back and pulled fuel hoose to a tank and fired up, gave it up to top rpm but couldn't see a single bit of smoke from the flexpipes, I had a flashlight looking directly at them.

if the plugs dont work:
could it be the settings of primary,secondary.. sounds weird since it pulls 1.0bar and low 10
the wiring of launccontroller faulty
some leakage still in the exhaust.
faulty mcx ecu "again"

etc...?