Wobble Bearing / Upper Shaft combinations for '14-'15 Vipers

[ksiesel]

I've been looking at upgrading the secondary (jackshaft) shaft to the 17+ arrangement and ditching the 2206 wobble bearing with locking collar that is in the upper location in the chaincase. I know the chaincase housing is different on the 17+ due to the use of the 6206 bearing that is 4 mm narrower than the 2206. I've read others have just used spacers or even spring clips to make up the difference.

My question is why wouldn't they just use a 62206 with the newer shaft? This should be the same 20 mm thickness to be compatible with the old chaincase housing and eliminate the need for the extra spacers?

In the end, parts needed would look like this:

 

[grizztracks]

I thought I had a problem in the chain case with 1500 miles on my 2015 Viper. Tore it down and found a bad clutch side jack shaft bearing but with all the concerns about the wobble bearing I decided to replace that also. Stuck a new FAG bearing in there and 9,000 miles later it's still holding up. I considered doing the upgrade when Yamaha made the change but never did. With proper maintenance and a bearing upgrade I think the early setup is reliable enough.

 

[yami1]

Was this part number for FAG bearing? 2206K.TV.C3

 

[HUS457]

Any updates on this? Is the Fag bearing still available? I'm assuming this keeps all the stock parts but you'd likely need a new collar as well?

 

[ksiesel]

Any updates on this? Is the Fag bearing still available? I'm assuming this keeps all the stock parts but you'd likely need a new collar as well?

I did the upgrade during the off season. However, I ended up using the 17+ shaft assembly that comes pre-assembled with bearing and brace behind the secondary clutch. I used the standard 6206 bearing and two 2 3/8” internal snap rings to take up the additional 4 mm. I haven’t put any miles on it yet, but no issues running it on the stand.

 

[Rerhardt]

I did the upgrade during the off season. However, I ended up using the 17+ shaft assembly that comes pre-assembled with bearing and brace behind the secondary clutch. I used the standard 6206 bearing and two 2 3/8” internal snap rings to take up the additional 4 mm. I haven’t put any miles on it yet, but no issues running it on the stand.

I did the same, kept the chain case from the 15, update the shaft with spacers as you did.... the only issue is that if you want to go the dmc top gear bushing/bearing there is no room for that....

 

[yami1]

I ended up just replacing the top gear bushing. Inspected wobble bearing and seemed in good shape so left it in there. O ly 3500 miles on my 14 viper so from the reading I have done I should be good for quite some time. Lol!!

 

[HUS457]

I think if you put a little extra oil in the case & make sure you don’t over tighten the chain, it’ll help prolong its failure.

 

[yami1]

Yep!!

 

[cannondale27]

I think if you put a little extra oil in the case & make sure you don’t over tighten the chain, it’ll help prolong its failure.

Over torquing the taper lock on wobble bearing leads to most failures I believe.

 

[HUS457]

Tx Cannondale - 35ftlbs?

 

[Mills]

I've been looking at upgrading the secondary (jackshaft) shaft to the 17+ arrangement and ditching the 2206 wobble bearing with locking collar that is in the upper location in the chaincase. I know the chaincase housing is different on the 17+ due to the use of the 6206 bearing that is 4 mm narrower than the 2206. I've read others have just used spacers or even spring clips to make up the difference.

My question is why wouldn't they just use a 62206 with the newer shaft? This should be the same 20 mm thickness to be compatible with the old chaincase housing and eliminate the need for the extra spacers?

In the end, parts needed would look like this:
View attachment 171897

I have a write up under my site name Mills for converting a 2014 to a 2017 jack shaft, bearings ans shims.

 

[HUS457]

Is there a torque sequence for the stock 14-15 jack shaft nut? Or just torque it to 35ft/lbs?

 

[HUS457]

How much play is normal between your shift forks & reverse gear. Mine has intermittent reverse problems which I’m trying to sort out. I have a new bearing, fork shoes & associated parts that I’m going to put in. Just trying to identify which of these parts is the culprit. Here’s a video of mine;

 

[HUS457]

Sorry for the duplicate posts. Hope I’m better with this chain case than I am smart phones.