Woodys Gold Digger Traction Master Studs and stud boy backers

[KnappAttack]

Do the mega bites work good on ice?
I been thinking about installing triggers, but they don’t last long trail riding

They work really good when you sharpen them and just take the blunt edge off the shank. About 5 seconds on a bench grinder and drill holding a sawed off allen wrench does the trick.

 

[fatchance]

How do the carbide tips hold up on the trails after they've been ground? Did you find they break off easier?

 

[KnappAttack]

How do the carbide tips hold up on the trails after they've been ground? Did you find they break off easier?

Yes, I've had to replace some. It's as though the carbide tip gets crushed. About 12 replacement studs in 1300 miles or so. More fragile on the tips for sure.

 

[twyztid]

Was there any issue with the shoulder on the Megabite studs keeping them from pulling in far enough? The shoulder is bigger diameter than the hole on the Super Lite Pro backers and is also taller than the recess in the bottom of them.

 

[KnappAttack]

Was there any issue with the shoulder on the Megabite studs keeping them from pulling in far enough? The shoulder is bigger diameter than the hole on the Super Lite Pro backers and is also taller than the recess in the bottom of them.

View attachment 147423

No issues, just tap them half way thru or slight bit more. Hand tighten for final orientation after tightening with a drill. They will sink into the track and bottom the shoulder like normal when doing this just using soap and water on the whole stud, doesn't even have to be warm water.

 

[twyztid]

No issues, just tap them half way thru or slight bit more. Hand tighten for final orientation after tightening with a drill. They will sink into the track and bottom the shoulder like normal when doing this just using soap and water on the whole stud, doesn't even have to be warm water.

Do you think they'll have an issue pulling them in on the quiet pads? My current studs had no problem but that was with aluminum backers & nuts.

 

[KnappAttack]

Do you think they'll have an issue pulling them in on the quiet pads? My current studs had no problem but that was with aluminum backers & nuts.

I countersunk into the quiet lugs first and shaved them down. Doesn't seem to be any different than normal backers. I can sink them into a std track too. I love the double pro-lites but would never ever use the single ones myself.

I've bent studs and broke tips but have had no failures with the backers themselves, but have overtorqued them sometimes. You'll need spares because once they strip out there garbage. Ive run them for many years and miles on 1200 doos including turbos and now on the boosted winder.

 

[twyztid]

I countersunk into the quiet lugs first and shaved them down. Doesn't seem to be any different than normal backers. I can sink them into a std track too. I love the double pro-lites but would never ever use the single ones myself.

I've bent studs and broke tips but have had no failures with the backers themselves, but have overtorqued them sometimes. You'll need spares because once they strip out there garbage. Ive run them for many years and miles on 1200 doos including turbos and now on the boosted winder.

Do you think is it necessary to shave the quiet bumps off?

I have 84 of the wider backers for the single ply studs and will only need 72 for what I am looking to do so I should hopefully have a few leftover.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Inner idler wheels will last approx 1200 miles with studs onto the quiet bumps, outers still look new at triple that mileage, so that speaks volumes. If shaved down flush, stud heads still very well may shorten inner idler life but likely not at bad.

Dan

 

[KnappAttack]

Do you think is it necessary to shave the quiet bumps off?

I have 84 of the wider backers for the single ply studs and will only need 72 for what I am looking to do so I should hopefully have a few leftover.

I did it to seat the studs into the backer well. I didn't shave them all the way down, only part ways.

Inner idler wheels will last approx 1200 miles with studs onto the quiet bumps, outers still look new at triple that mileage, so that speaks volumes. If shaved down flush, stud heads still very well may shorten inner idler life but likely not at bad.

Dan

I have never blown the rubber off the wheels or done any kind of chewing on any of the inner or outer wheels on the SideWinder. 4000 miles and all look like new.

On the other hand, every single time I took out my 2012 POS turbo ProCross I'd blow all the rubber off ALL the idler wheels, inner and outer!

 

[twyztid]

Inner idler wheels will last approx 1200 miles with studs onto the quiet bumps, outers still look new at triple that mileage, so that speaks volumes. If shaved down flush, stud heads still very well may shorten inner idler life but likely not at bad.

Dan

My quiet pads are not shaved down now and the studs are sucked right in. 1200 miles and hardly any wear showing on the wheels at all

 

[ROCKERDAN]

My quiet pads are not shaved down now and the studs are sucked right in. 1200 miles and hardly any wear showing on the wheels at all

Just wait....Mine looked new, then one day were all chunked off.....right around 1200 miles I believe.

I would try to shave down bumps on next sled.

Dan

 

[BurntChrysler_404]

Yes, I would recommend tapping them. I also much prefer doubles but thats just me. I feel the traction is better and they hold in the track better. The track in my pics takes less time to install the Stud-Boy backers vs. regular alum backers and nuts with the Megabites lining them up for the flats on the Magabites. It hooks like a cat on a screen door. If I did it again I'd actually run less studs.

Did you torque the studs? Studboy doesn't have a recounted torque spec, but I'm looking for something to shoot for. don't want to strip out the plastic.

 

[Turboflash]

I've run the Prolite backers for many years with very few failures - maybe a couple a year that crack. Stud I used was StudBoy Lake Racer (same as Woodys Trigger) 1.62" length. But maybe my riding locations and habits are more "stud friendly?"
When I first talked to Stud Boy they recommended to tap the backers all the way through for maximum strength as then the stud threads and the backer threads mate exactly and can lock together. Also because I didn't want the stud shoulder to prevent the stud from pulling in and getting as tight as possible, I simply drilled the backer hole in about 1/8" with a drill sized just over the diameter of the stud shoulder (make a drill stop out of a tube that just slips over drill bit to control depth). That way, when I tighten the stud, if necessary, the stud shoulder can go inside the backer a bit to make sure stud is tight and there is good compression on track. Last, for insurance to prevent loosening (IDK if that would be a problem anyway) I put a drop of superglue in the backer threaded holes just before installing stud. Degrease studs prior to install.
I also removed quiet trak pads to make track flat where studs are. I made a special drill to do this that uses stud hole to align. Need to be careful when doing this so as to not cut too deep.
This works for me with my riding style and locations.

 

[BurntChrysler_404]

I've run the Prolite backers for many years with very few failures - maybe a couple a year that crack. Stud I used was StudBoy Lake Racer (same as Woodys Trigger) 1.62" length. But maybe my riding locations and habits are more "stud friendly?"
When I first talked to Stud Boy they recommended to tap the backers all the way through for maximum strength as then the stud threads and the backer threads mate exactly and can lock together. Also because I didn't want the stud shoulder to prevent the stud from pulling in and getting as tight as possible, I simply drilled the backer hole in about 1/8" with a drill sized just over the diameter of the stud shoulder (make a drill stop out of a tube that just slips over drill bit to control depth). That way, when I tighten the stud, if necessary, the stud shoulder can go inside the backer a bit to make sure stud is tight and there is good compression on track. Last, for insurance to prevent loosening (IDK if that would be a problem anyway) I put a drop of superglue in the backer threaded holes just before installing stud. Degrease studs prior to install.
I also removed quiet trak pads to make track flat where studs are. I made a special drill to do this that uses stud hole to align. Need to be careful when doing this so as to not cut too deep.
This works for me with my riding style and locations.

Turbo, how much did you tighten the studs? (did you use a torque wrench?) I tapped the brackets at least half way.