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XTX upgrades?

Viper S said:
Don't know about shimming with anything but hyfax type material I've gotten from Bergstrom, along with triple pts. Or a set of doollies...I don't know if a tipover kit is needed for my kind of riding... Fashioning some racks for a couple extra gas cans up back this Summer too!
Click to expand...

a ROV is needed for any type of riding IMO... even for trail riders, if your snowmachine gets tipped over for any reason at all and the engine is running, your looking to starve your engine of oil really quick so having at least a teather on to get your engine shut off asap, then your next worry is loosing your oil out of your tank right into your airbox, not a fun situation to be cleaning out an airbox filled with a quart or 2 of oil... a ROV with either the regular teather or the Pro-Armor teather will solve both of those problems. Cheap insurance, just my 2 cents
 

You don't need a rear exchanger on the XTX. I never had any cooling issues... Get Rocks handwarmers... Add the excell wheels and add an extra set of small wheels at the bend in the rail at the front and add another set of excell wheels in the mid towards the rear. Their should be a holes already drilled their for it. IMO, if you have the cash, then get the new Dupont sliders as well from Yamaha. Should last forever and free up some friction.

I also did NOT like the OFT relocator on my sled as I am 5'8" and did not like position. So, If you are taller then that, it may help... I also did not like the fact that it made steering even stiffer.

Handling.... If you are primarily trail riding this sled, then my position on this is to do 2 things. Get the spindle kit and rear lowering kit from mjaremko.... Or What I did was put in the Hygears Sport Suspension revalve kit and springs. 800.00 bucks but huge improvement... Really helps with the handling of this sled. Not sure if you really need to do this if you are an off trail guy... Maybe just a re-valve of the shocks from Carver then would be your best bang for the buck...

But, IMO mjaremko kit is the way to go and he did not have that kid out when I had my XTX. 375.00-475.00 is a good dealdeal to help with Yamahas very poor suspension setup!

Performance mods... K&N filters and PCV with autotune, clutch kit from Ulmer or Turks 2 speeds setup....

Also if you have the money get the exhaust from either Excell or Hindle. Both great... I had the full exhaust system from Excell.... Awesome Piece... Stealth mod would be just to get the header and run stock muffler.... A little less top end, but almost whisper quiet... You choose.... Both a good bang in performance...


I also ran 8" tripple points from Bergstrom and shimmed the stock skis. Big improvement.

Studs... 114 1.450 Woodys megabytes or equivillant...
 
I like the last post by Sledfreak a lot, sounds like stuff I can do and not break the bank and help sled a lot. No heat exchanger? I am 6'2 and what would OFT do...?
Is tipover valve a good thing too? Wheels and 4th wheel will be done for sure! Already got Yamaheaters and sled came with oversize w/s...
 
I guess its a personal prefrence on the relocater.I wont own a nytro without one. 99% of the people love them.It changes the angle of the steering to a more traditional style instead of up and down.The excell wheels are a must for slide wear.
 
Viper S said:
I like the last post by Sledfreak a lot, sounds like stuff I can do and not break the bank and help sled a lot. No heat exchanger? I am 6'2 and what would OFT do...?
Is tipover valve a good thing too? Wheels and 4th wheel will be done for sure! Already got Yamaheaters and sled came with oversize w/s...
Click to expand...


Rear Heat exchanger? Like I said.... I never had any over heating issues and I ran it slow in low snow conditions with my 3 year old in front of me and it never over heated. Others on here that are friends of mine all said the same thing, so not sure why people think the XTX needs it? Maybe the 121" sled might need it, but I have no dealing with that sled as I had an 09 Nytro XTX.

Adjust your bars according first before determinig anything. Make sure everything is where you like it. If you can sit on the sled and like the positiion, then leave it. If you think you need more then maybe the OFT is for you. I will tell you this that when you try to turn the bars on the Nytro back and forth, on a full side to side motion, you will feel that the bars come down and hit your knees. But, you never really do that when you are driving the sled and unless maybe powder riding. The real thing I did not like about the OFT was the bending of the steering post tabs. There has to be an easier method then this, because if it is not right, the steering will become super stiff and grind aways at the blocks that are provided. I am not the only one that complained about the fitment. A riser may all that is required for your riding style.

Unless you are a powder rider, I don't see the need for a roll over valve. Rubber side down...

If you do a search on wheels, in the Nytro form, you will see some pics from Mach9?, I think that will show you his wheel setup... Or talk to Ulmer, he can help show you as I got pics from him when I had mine.... If not I can post some.....
 
older mtx skis, ski shims, OFT tunnel block off, Roest skid plate + dash vent, dupont hyfax. all for minimal cost with proven results.
 
Yes a skid plate is a must.... I ran the Yamaha one, but Roast makes a good one as well... Search for venting on it as well, because the hood holds in alot of heat. I believe A few small bullseye vents in the hood where it connects on either side by the bars is all you need to help force the heat out... Don't need alot just a help to escape the heat...


Back to the clutching... What ever clutching you go with add the 14.5mm rollers.... Really helps with the mid range pull and bottom end pull. Pricey, but worth it...
 
SledFreak said:
Viper S said:
I like the last post by Sledfreak a lot, sounds like stuff I can do and not break the bank and help sled a lot. No heat exchanger? I am 6'2 and what would OFT do...?
Is tipover valve a good thing too? Wheels and 4th wheel will be done for sure! Already got Yamaheaters and sled came with oversize w/s...
Click to expand...


Rear Heat exchanger? Like I said.... I never had any over heating issues and I ran it slow in low snow conditions with my 3 year old in front of me and it never over heated. Others on here that are friends of mine all said the same thing, so not sure why people think the XTX needs it? Maybe the 121" sled might need it, but I have no dealing with that sled as I had an 09 Nytro XTX.

Adjust your bars according first before determinig anything. Make sure everything is where you like it. If you can sit on the sled and like the positiion, then leave it. If you think you need more then maybe the OFT is for you. I will tell you this that when you try to turn the bars on the Nytro back and forth, on a full side to side motion, you will feel that the bars come down and hit your knees. But, you never really do that when you are driving the sled and unless maybe powder riding. The real thing I did not like about the OFT was the bending of the steering post tabs. There has to be an easier method then this, because if it is not right, the steering will become super stiff and grind aways at the blocks that are provided. I am not the only one that complained about the fitment. A riser may all that is required for your riding style.

Unless you are a powder rider, I don't see the need for a roll over valve. Rubber side down...

If you do a search on wheels, in the Nytro form, you will see some pics from Mach9?, I think that will show you his wheel setup... Or talk to Ulmer, he can help show you as I got pics from him when I had mine.... If not I can post some.....
Click to expand...

by tabs do you mean the bolts on the bottom? if so i thought it was pretty easy; all you have to do is bend them until the block sits level.
 
ViperS

Like Dimebag, a ROV and scratchers first.

Scratchers are absolutely critical on these sleds. The only reason I say this is I have been on both sides of the hyfax wear issue. My first set went maybe 3000km, my next two sets went 80 and 160km's. My current set is at 1600km's, and nearly no wear (scratchers on when I trail ride).

What I have observed is that the first 100km's are critical. If you run on marginal conditions with new hyfax and DON'T take it easy, they will be gone in short order....scratchers or no scratchers! On my current set, I had the scratchers down from the beginning, and within the first 30km's of riding I went on the side of a highway (pavement/gravel) for like 0.5km only. Obviously the scatchers had little effect on gravel, so the hyfax warmed up. I stopped after we got back on the snow and put them in some powder beside the trail. When I went to start off, the hyfax had stuck to the clips. A couple of shakes and away it went. Same situation the next day and same stuck hyfax. But again, I gave them a bit of time to cool down, and their was no visible wear despite being stuck/glued to the clips twice. From there on, we encountered ice/gravel marginal conditions, and no more sticking. Guys say you have to "temper" hyfax and I agree, they need some form of break in to get long life.

The XTX's normaly wear occurs between the last set of idlers and the rear axle wheels. They do burn down to about 1/8" below the wear line and seem to stop there for a long time, so they look worn out, but in reality, they are not.

On the ROV, it is cheap insurance, because engine damage happens fast.

Also, Sledfreak is right, if you sit alot the OFT relocator moves the bars up and away from you. Monkey hangers comes to mind. If you off trail or stand alot, then I wouldn't be without it. Both my xtx and mtx have the relocator, and I am 6'0".

OTM
 
Sounds like I'll scrub the rear exchanger and go with wheels and Dupont Hyfax. Bars seem fine, but Oft roll over valve w/ tether. Going to add 4th wheel too. Hoping to keep all under $500...Two brackets on back for extra gas!
Thanks for all the tips!f
 
I would check the bushings in the upper and lower A arms and make sure they're not shot if they are replace with an oilite bushing kit from Ulmer Racing the stock bushings are junk. I would also install the ball joint kit from them as well. Reinforce the front limiter straps before they tear apart.
 
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