Dynomax666
Extreme
With all the Denso starters used on all brands of sleds, there's got to be a direct swap starter that can help these poor little phazers from winding over and over so many times. I've never seen a sled that cranks so hard when cold or after sitting for a summer. Anyone have any ideas on that? a new oem yamaha starter is foolish only to have it die again from cranking so much
turbogts22
Pro
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2021
- Messages
- 136
- Location
- Spooner, Wisconsin
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Two 2010 Phazer GT's
The starter motor from a Cat F1100, (Suzuki big twin) can be made to fit with some mods. Someone on here probably can chime in on what all is involved as I haven't done it yet. I've owned three of these sleds total now, all 2010-2013 models. They all start great regardless of temps in northern Wisconsin as long as the fuel isn't several months old.
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2004
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- 7,730
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- sudbury on
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
brother tried an aftermarket one in the 09 listed in my signature, it made it out of warrenty and failed again. put oe back into it and been starting good since. we run them every 4-6 weeks in the off season up to full temp and spin the tracks too. likes a splash of octane boost too even with fresh 91 in the tank for some reason.
Dynomax666
Extreme
In took my old starter to the Arctic cat parts guy. The f1100 starter is larger cranks faster fits the flywheel but the mounts are different. I got one I’m going to make it bolt on
FlatOverCrest
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2021
- Messages
- 12
- Age
- 41
- Location
- Munising, MI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Mountain Lite
Interested in updates here! Have you made it work yet Dynomax?
Dynomax666
Extreme
Yes sir I have. Been starting flawlessly all winter so far. Got 500mi on the phazer so far this year. Worth the messing around. Added bonus is now get better than oem quality for $100 if i ever need to change it. Plus it’s rebuildable.
Dynomax666
Extreme
I added a dedicated ground right to starter also.
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FlatOverCrest
Newbie
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2021
- Messages
- 12
- Age
- 41
- Location
- Munising, MI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Mountain Lite
Thats great! Did you have to cut and weld the tabs? Did you need to trim off the casting mark on the block that sticks out? It looks like you clearances the engine mount (unused) on the bottom of the engine. I have done the same to get the old starter out. Thanks for the info!
Erik
Erik
Dynomax666
Extreme
I could have welded yes, but I don't weld aluminum, and got thinking if i ever had to swap the started it would be easier just to unbolt it. I cut off the tab on the bottom of the engine also to allow easier removal of the starter with just swinging the subframe ahead leaving the top left and right bolts in place removing only the lower ones.
On the starter I cut with a grinder the two old mounting bolts off and used one to bolt it to the starter, and used one original bolt to bolt it to the engine. So Yes, there is only one bolt holding the starter in place onto the engine, but I believe that is sufficient. Even in testing with the starter simply stuck in and grounded, it did not rotate when starting, so i figured one bolt will be fine. I've got 300mi on it and many many starts. It still starts slower than updated ECU, but doesn't nearly drain the battery like the OEM starter. Even with a weak battery, or cold night, this arctic cat starter will fire it right up. Again, not my idea, borrowed from the facebook group for 07+ phazers.
Would be really cool if someone who could machine things could make a proper bracket to use both bolt holes, but hey, mine was cheap, only the cost of some stainless hardware, and a used F1100 starter ($100 all day long, guy here had 20 on the shelf).
