Yamahaboy701's Nytro MTX Boondocker Build

[yamahaboy701]

Finally starting my project after months of not having time and the right parts. Didn't help that it was at the dealer all last month, but now the fun starts. A little about my build: Last summer I purchased a 2008 Nytro MTX 40th Anny. with reverse. I never leave anything stock because stock sucks! My plans are to build a great sled that will perform on the trails to get to the off trail and also out west a few weeks. I have built two other cross over sleds and know by now that it is impossible to have it all so maybe I am a little more off-trail bias.

One thing the I would like to do is help answer those questions that I see on the forums come up again and again so I hope that I can help people by posting some good pictures and how-to-do write ups.

Now to the Goodies:
-OFT Relocator
-OFT upper billet wheels
-OFT rear billet wheels (2 wheel set-up)
-New updated Sub-frame
-2010 Timbersled Rear Suspension with Fox Float X
-Whal anti-stab kit
-Avid drivers
-Ohlins Front shocks (freshly rebuilt, revalued, and new spring)
-XXXMod Rod custom vent kit + hood vent and shock tower vents
-New ball joints (uppers, lowers, and steering)
-Prosport Digital Water temperature Gauge
-Better Boards
-Modded tunnel with arctic cat trim
-Skinz custom rear bumper
-Aaen exhaust
-Power Commander V
-Ceramic Coated exhaust (pipe, header, flex joints)
-RSI 6" or 8" riser
-RSI handle bars
-RSI Grips and Warmers
-RSI mountain strap
-RSI Bar Hooks
-CR10EK Spark Plugs
-Ulmer's K&N Intake
-Ulmer's front end bushing kit
-CraiggerBuilt Gas Caddy
-Sno-skinz Cover
-Brite Lites H4 60/55 Watt
-Black Hood and tank panel
-Exshaust dounts
-Drive shaft bearing


Mountian setup:
19-40 Gearing
Hartman Clutch kit (weights, springs, helix)
Challenger Extreme track


Trail/off-trail setup:
22-40 Gearing
Stock Maverick Cutdown to 1.5/1.75

Give me feedback on anything!

Now to start the project....

 

[yamahaboy701]

First thing first,
I am having my tunnel powder coated gloss black. So it needs to come off but before I take it off I need to install F-bomb's Better Boards, arctic cat M8 trim and custom bumper.

To install the better boards I wanted to leave the tunnel on the sled and all the supports for the tunnel so I would not come into a fit problem later. The seat and fuel tank do not support anything that change the shape of the tunnel so I took both off now.

Next I pre-fit everything out on the tunnel to get an idea of how it will all fit and go together. Then made a few marks and started to drill out all the rivets for the stock board trims and supports.

Once all the rivets were drilled I started to cut the stock boards.

After I cut out the stock boards I drilled 3/16 holes for the rivets and used clencos to hold everything tempary together. Clencos were a HUGE help and I should have used them long ago on a lot of projects.

Installing the new trim was a pain. I had to bend it a lot of different ways to get it to fit just right but I turned out way better then I thought.

I also reinforced the trim.

Cut the tunnel extension so it was more like the 2010 but had to leave some for my new bumper

If you are having you old tunnel powder coated like me or swapping the tunnels don't forget to take out your side heat exchanger.

Finished tunnel with out powder coat.

 

[yamahaboy701]

Now that the tunnel mods are done I needed to take the tunnel off. I see a lot of questions on how to take a stock tunnel off so I took a ton of pictures and will try to explain this process the best I can.

First thing first is you need to support the front of the sled, jack stands work perfect. Also it is a good idea to support the back of the tunnel with some kind of jack so you don't get a teeter totter affect with the jack stands under the motor.

Next I removed the muffler, header and flex joints. This can be tricky for two reasons:
1. You have to take the muffler and muffler tunnel cover off at the same time or take the muffler out first.
2. Remove the flex joints before trying to remove the header.

The screws the hold the header on will need to be heated! Don't think your a big strong guy and round the heads off just heat them up for 20-30 seconds and they come right out.

I removed the 4 suspension bolt now. I left the suspension in the sled but just removed the bolts. This way the tunnel has something to rest on when you take the last bolts out of the tunnel. Also drain the coolant at this point, I did it later and it was a bit messy. Remove the two hoses that connect to the rear heat exchanger.

Now with nothing on the tunnel you can start removing the fasteners that hold the tunnel on the bulk head. There is 6-8 bolts holding the tunnel on and 20-24 rivets. It is best to take the rivets out first. I drilled the rivets out, used a new bit and went slow. Maybe 10 seconds for each rivet with the new bit.

Some of the rivets by the foot wells are hard to get to so best way to get to them is just remove the foot wells.

Once all the rivets are out them you can start taking the bolts out. Do the two inside the tunnel first that hold the foot well support bracket on first. I do not have a picture of them but you can't miss them, they are the only two (one on each side) in the front of the tunnel that you have to take out from the inside of the tunnel.
Remove the rest of the bolts and give the tunnel a pull and it should come right out.

Now it sits until I get the tunnel back

While I wait for my tunnel I will install my XXXModRod vents.

 

[errol]

Keep the good work!

 

[tapex_07]

Nice write up with all the pics. Looks like pulling the tunnel wasnt toooo bad??

 

[yamahaboy701]

Looks like pulling the tunnel wasnt toooo bad??

The removal of the tunnel was about 90 minutes. That includes removing the exhaust and suspension. It was a very easy job, riveting it back together will be the fun part but hopefully I will have my air riveter by then.

The better boards took about 5 hours but includes all the cutting of the tunnel, bending for the trim, and riveting by HAND

 

[tylerj907]

Is the Arctic Cat trim alot stronger? I am looking at ideas on how to make my running boards stiffer and i know that outside edge is pretty weak. I might just drive a 3/8" piece of round steel stock down the inside. That should stiffen it up some! By the way i love the build and i can't wait to see more pictures! Who is doing your powdercoating?

 

[yamahaboy701]

Is the Arctic Cat trim alot stronger?

A lot lot stronger, when I removed my stock trim I could make a circle out of it by hand. The arctic cat trim came as a straight piece that I had to bend at 3 sports, with 2 guys, a vice, and a 5 foot pole. Here is a picture of the trim before and after:

(on the ground)

Who is doing your powdercoating?

Halfbaked (http://halfbakedcoatings.com/default.aspx) is doing all my powder coating and ceramic coating. Their shop is right down the road from me and I have done stuff in the past with them and it turned out great. Contact Brian "welterracer" on here for pricing and time frame.

 

[tylerj907]

That's what i like to here! Is it in there accessory catalog? or do you know the part # and Price? Once i saw you were in WI i figured you were using half Baked. Did you put the timbersled drop brackets on before you sent it off to powdercoat? That thing is going to look sweet with a black tunnel!Can't wait to see this thing assembled!

 

[pro116]

Excllent write up!

 

[yamahaboy701]

Excllent write up!

Thanks, a lot more to come

That's what i like to here! Is it in there accessory catalog? or do you know the part # and Price?

Got the part numbers off any arctic cat fiche and can be ordered at your local arctic cat dealer. Any 09-10 M8,M1000, or Crossfire will have them. To make easy for everyone here are the part numbers:

Arctic cat side rails (5606-490),(5606-491) $40 ea
Arctic cat rear foot well brackets (5606-594) and (5606-595) $10 ea

Total: ~$100

Just a reminder that they are not a direct bot on part and will require some modifications to make them fit.

Did you put the timbersled drop brackets on before you sent it off to powdercoat?

I knew somebody was going to ask that. Answer is No, but not because I forgot to put them on but because my TS skid is on back ordered because Timbersled does not have any of the Fox Float Xs in stock in till early December. Once I get my skid I will have the drop brackets powder coated the same black and will install them.

 

[yamahaboy701]

XXXMod Rod Vents

Had a little free time this weekend so I installed my XXX Mod Rod vents. Took about 2 hours to install all 7 vents. I did not install the number plate vents; not a big fan of how it would look and maybe to much??? Once again the clencos came in handy.

The red rivets are a little something I thought of that would make this sled mine. This is also the first set of red vents that XXXmod rod has made for the nytro, he will make any color you want and is a super friendly guy.

I am picking my tunnel up tomorrow and plan on installing it tomorrow night. I can't wait to see it.

 

[stopdropanroll]

NICE

 

[Tookes]

Great job, keep it up!!!

 

[Tookes]

YB, what do you mean by "new updated sub frame", is it the 09 one? If so, I would suggest you still need to reinfore it more, the one weak area Yamaha still haven't fixed is where the rubber boots are riveted into the bend in on the bottom of the frame. IMO