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Yamahaboy701's Nytro MTX Boondocker Build

exactly what i was looking for yamahaboy. If i would have know how easy those side pieces were to change on the running bords i would have done this along time ago. Thanks for sharing.
 

philsummers21 said:
exactly what i was looking for yamahaboy. If i would have know how easy those side pieces were to change on the running bords i would have done this along time ago. Thanks for sharing.

Its not a bolt on part and you do have to do some modifications. Like I said in my previous post you have to bend the rails and trim the rear foot pieces. It a very inexpensive mod though!
I only rod a M series for 10 minutes last year and loved the strength of the trim and feel so much that I knew I had to do this to my nytro.
 
mountain_mod_viper said:
Where do you get those "Clencos" things? Sweet sled!
Crewchief47 said:
google 'clecos'. You'd be looking for the 3/16" size for most stuff on a sled.

They are used a lot in hobby air crafts. I got mine off a air craft supply website for $40 for 50 clencos plus the tool and shipping.
 
cleco

yamahaboy701 said:
mountain_mod_viper said:
Where do you get those "Clencos" things? Sweet sled!
Crewchief47 said:
google 'clecos'. You'd be looking for the 3/16" size for most stuff on a sled.

They are used a lot in hobby air crafts. I got mine off a air craft supply website for $40 for 50 clencos plus the tool and shipping.
they are just temporary right? you replace them with rivits?
 
Re: cleco

big_red1a said:
yamahaboy701 said:
mountain_mod_viper said:
Where do you get those "Clencos" things? Sweet sled!
Crewchief47 said:
google 'clecos'. You'd be looking for the 3/16" size for most stuff on a sled.

They are used a lot in hobby air crafts. I got mine off a air craft supply website for $40 for 50 clencos plus the tool and shipping.
they are just temporary right? you replace them with rivits?

Yes, they hold everything snug so you can mock stuff up before you rivet it permanently. Think of them as a easy removable temporary rivet.
 
And update should be soon, I have helped a little on the sled, and there is many new parts on it since the last update. It is looking really good.
 
tkuss said:
And update should be soon, I have helped a little on the sled, and there is many new parts on it since the last update. It is looking really good.

More than a little, like 12+ hours in 2 days.
Thanks again for the help!

Update is coming very soon.....
 
Had some quality time with the sled this weekend. About 90% done with it!!!

First thing I did was change my plugs before I forgot about them. I replaced the stock plugs with CR10EKs. People say there is a power gain but I did it because all the cool people are doing it :-o

Next I installed my stock/aaen exhaust. I had the full system ceramic coasted by halfbaked. Looks great and should keep the heat inside.

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The exhaust installation went "ok". Its been a while since I took it off so I forgot that the header goes on first then the flex joints. :o| :o|
Won't make that mistake again!
I repacked the Aaen pipe while it was all apart from the powder coating. I used FMF pink 4-stroke repacking material. It was stringy and a lot easier to use then than the roll style packing.
Last thing I did with the exhaust was put my custom made 90 degree tip on from Aaen. It looks great and should keep the exhaust away from the gas caddy.

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ROFL, atleast you do your work like I do...Laptop and service manual...oh, and the other screen open is the parts order form to my dealer of choice :)
 
After the exhaust I went to the front end replacement. Another buddy of mine did a lot of the front end with me. It went pretty easy, just disconnect everything that is connected to the sub-frame and replace it with the new one. Since I had my a-arms power coated they were already removed making the swap even easier.

After the swap I put my a-arms back on. Once again not a very hard job. Very important to put the bottom arms on first before you put the sub-frame plastic on. This will allow you to torque the bottom arms. After you get the bottom a-arms on, then you can put the plastic on and also the top a-arms.

At the same time I install the K&N air intake kit. Ulmers directions were great. Very easy to install but some tricky spots for an allen wrench.

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After I installed my front end I did have a question about which way the top ball joint end went. Does the collar go up or down? I put it up.

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I changed the oil quick and bleed the coolant, then put the plastic back on and seat. For the people asking about oil, I used a K&N oil filter and Klotz synthetic oil. Also put a little water wetter in the system to keep it cool. :-o Looks like a sled again.
Need to do list:

-Install skid plate with better fasteners
-Install full RSI control set up
-Install timbersled (still waiting for it)
-Ride

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