• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Yamahaboy701's Nytro MTX Boondocker Build

Tookes said:
YB, what do you mean by "new updated sub frame", is it the 09 one? If so, I would suggest you still need to reinfore it more, the one weak area Yamaha still haven't fixed is where the rubber boots are riveted into the bend in on the bottom of the frame. IMO

The sled has the stock 08 sub frame on it now. I bought t-nytro's sub frame beef up planning on installing it because my 08 frame is in "ok" condition BUT when I took my sled to the dealer to get new ball joints under warranty I told them to warranty the sub frame. Yamaha gave them the ok to warranty it but will not pay for installation (which is fine because I prefer to do my own work) I told the dealer to order the part number 8GL-21940-02-00 (2010 sub frame). Took about 3-4 weeks to get, supposed to be stronger but we will see. I have not taken it out of the HUGE box yet to look at how much different it is then the older ones. Supposed to be thicker braces.

Also interesting fact is that the 2010 sub-frame is about $100 cheaper then the 09. hmmmm
From Port-Yamaha's web-site:
FRONT FRAME COMP. (8GL-21940-02-00) $445.65
FRONT FRAME COMP. (8GL-21940-01-00) $552.18
FRONT FRAME COMP. (8GL-21940-01-00)
(replaces 8GL-21940-00-00) $552.18


Got my tunnel on the sled and my water temp gauge installed. Will post pictures and details soon......
 

Can u post some pics of the new subframe. ready to put my sled back together and wanted to weld stiffeners in first.
 
Got my tunnel on the sled and my water temp gauge installed. Will post pictures and details soon......[/quote]

Wow!! You alteady got the tunnel back on. Half Baked told me they were 3 weeks out. I can't wait to see it! I already ordered the arctic cat rails and better boards so i am going to copy you:) i also wanted to coat it black but i won't be able to get it done in time for our first trip with that 3 week lead time. Oh well. i will test it first and when i get back just tear it down again and have it powdercoated. Anyway get those pics up!!!!
 
tylerj907 said:
Wow!! You alteady got the tunnel back on. Half Baked told me they were 3 weeks out. I can't wait to see it! I already ordered the arctic cat rails and better boards so i am going to copy you:) i also wanted to coat it black but i won't be able to get it done in time for our first trip with that 3 week lead time. Oh well. i will test it first and when i get back just tear it down again and have it powdercoated. Anyway get those pics up!!!!

When I picked it up on Monday night they were swamped. I still need to do my rails, a-arms, and spindles but my first trip in the weekend before x-mas so I have some time.

One more pointer for the arctic side rails with BB is trim the BB boards outer edge to a point so the boards fit into a grove on the arctic cat trim. Sorry hard to explain but you will see what I mean you get everything.
 
I picked up my tunnel from halfbaked powder coating on Monday night. I wanted to get it on the sled right away so I could start on the front end of the sled.
Installing the tunnel was very easy. A BIG THANKS to TKUSS for helping me install the tunnel and water temp guage. It made things go a lot smoother having an extra hands and eyes to line the tunnel up and install the rear suspension. Also he installed the same water temp unit on his sled so he knew the wiring in and outs.

Now the installation, First I lined up the tunnel with the skid IN and got in position so all the hole were line up all the way around the frame. Next I used the clencos and stock bolts to hold the tunnel in place while I riveted it. Once the rivets were on I tighten all the bolts. Very easy to install it took the same amount of time to install the tunnel as to install the water temp gauge!!! (air riveter help a lot) Now to the pics:

DSC01381.jpg


DSC01394.jpg


DSC01383.jpg


DSC01389.jpg


DSC01392.jpg


The adjustable chair was very handy. I could put the back of the tunnel at just the right height to get all the holes to line up.
DSC01388.jpg
 
The water temp gauge was not to hard to install. Way easier then the one I installed on my viper last year. Pretty much splice the sending unit in the radiator line and mount the gauge then connect all wires. I wired it up so when the key is on the gauge will also be on. (sled does not have to be running)

Purple :o| (can't see it anyways)
DSC01396.jpg


DSC01405.jpg


DSC01406.jpg


DSC01404.jpg
 
stopdropanroll said:
KILLER, keep up the good work. Are you doing this at school? Looks like a tech ed classroom or you have one hell of a nice/clean shop.

I am attending the University of Wisconsin Platteville for Computer Information Systems.
The shop is in our new engineering building, I was president of the Clean Snowmobile team for 2 years and very active in SAE for 5 years now. I also maintain UWP SAEs website so they let me work in the shop. Only down side is that I can not leave anything in the shop over night so moving a none working sled around is a pain. I also bring my own tools and supplies to keep everybody happy who uses the shop.
 
Once again had very little time this weekend to work on the sled but had just enough time to take the a-arms off. WOW what an easy job that was. Took about 1/2 the time of taking the front end of my viper. First removed the skid plate then the front bumper. Next I removed all nuts to all the bolts that held the a-arms on, then lifted the front of the sled off the ground and removed the bolts. Once the arms were off I removed the spindles and skis. About an hour total.
While my a-arms are being powder coated I will swap in the new front clip.
Here are some pictures of the front without the a-arms and also my ohlins that I am working on to have match the sled colors.

DSC01408.jpg


DSC01410.jpg
 
philsummers21 said:
Can you post a pic of the Arctic cat rails. dont see how the rail stiffener connects to the foot hold that rivets to the tunnel.

Are you talking about this piece? If so there is a tab that goes inside the rail, I had to trim the tab a little because of the different angle compared to a cat tunnel. Let me know if this is what you are talking about.

DSC01316.jpg
 


Back
Top