bouboul
Newbie
I covered everything with one aluminum peace and the muffleur and the plastic was over heating. the top speed was down 5 km. with this vents I retrieve the top speed. And the vent It was plug only 5 % and the leak water is minuscule.
sory for my english.
sory for my english.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
bouboul said:I covered everything with one aluminum peace and the muffleur and the plastic was over heating. the top speed was down 5 km
I have not experienced what you are stating here. No loss of power/speed and no melt down issue on the plastic..
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
You know the rubber flaps that run along side the tunnel at the bottom sides of the fuel tank? I get water that seaps under those and goes down my running boards and makes a mess, still freezing my pants to the sides of the tunnel. You aren't getting that mess or?sniperviper said:Sorry, I now know what you ment. I have left the front hole under the tank open. It havent made any problems for me yet.
bouboul
Newbie
With full plate, When I was running faster 1 hrs at -5 C, the muffleur changing to red dark collor and the plastic comming neer to melt and permanent change.
Anaway, It is my personal expérience, and I advise the other.
I testing and I adjust change for the better result .
Anaway, It is my personal expérience, and I advise the other.
I testing and I adjust change for the better result .
bouboul
Newbie
Yamaha number #SMA-8GCSK-00-color Price 169$ ca.
http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=4&u=11016014
http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=4&u=11016014
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Cold Weather Testing Update:
Awhile back I was in touch with Yamaha through my dealer about cold weather starting, and the breaking point at which the unit needed to be plugged in (coolant heater) to start.
I was not able to start the machine at -29 C (-20 F) unassisted. Yamaha asked what octane I was running. I had been running 87 Octane up to that point. They suggested running 91 Octane because it should allow starting at lower temps vs. 87 Octane.
I've been running 91 Octane for a couple of weeks, waiting for the cold weather. This morning it hit, -29 C (-20 F) and after trying several runs, even with a bit of throttle on the last couple attempts, the sled would NOT start unassisted.
I don't believe spending the extra money on premium provides any benefits, I have recorded no power loss, no speed loss and no cold weather benefits running 91 Octane vs. 87.
Awhile back I was in touch with Yamaha through my dealer about cold weather starting, and the breaking point at which the unit needed to be plugged in (coolant heater) to start.
I was not able to start the machine at -29 C (-20 F) unassisted. Yamaha asked what octane I was running. I had been running 87 Octane up to that point. They suggested running 91 Octane because it should allow starting at lower temps vs. 87 Octane.
I've been running 91 Octane for a couple of weeks, waiting for the cold weather. This morning it hit, -29 C (-20 F) and after trying several runs, even with a bit of throttle on the last couple attempts, the sled would NOT start unassisted.
I don't believe spending the extra money on premium provides any benefits, I have recorded no power loss, no speed loss and no cold weather benefits running 91 Octane vs. 87.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yellowknife said:You know the rubber flaps that run along side the tunnel at the bottom sides of the fuel tank? I get water that seaps under those and goes down my running boards and makes a mess, still freezing my pants to the sides of the tunnel. You aren't getting that mess or?
No I dont have any problems with that anymore. Was really bad before I closed closed the rear hole. Maybe something to do with the higher lugs on your mountain light...? Not much snow that are hitting the pipe through the the front hole on my fx.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
bouboul said:With full plate, When I was running faster 1 hrs at -5 F, the muffleur changing to red dark collor and the plastic comming neer to melt and permanent change.
Anaway, It is my personal expérience, and I advise the other.
I testing and I adjust change for the better result .
Cant see why it should be different now with your new solution. What I see from your posted pics there would be no snow hitting your muffler to cool it down. Also that perforated plate you have used to cover the front hole. Wouldnt that be glogged after a few miles in powder? Not trying to sound like a smart #*$&@ here but I have seen other that have used perforated aluminum plate to cover the rear hole and it was completely glogged after a short trip.
bouboul
Newbie
Whith hole in the plate the snow can pass and go to muffler and do a ice.
Whith the full plate the muffleur come very hot and by radiation when you stop the plate reflect the heat and the plastic come near to melt. Maximum temp for distord is 160 F. when the wheather is below - 15 F no problem. to up you take a chance.
The vent plate whit négative angle baffle with a mosquito net.
the snow can not pass, down to up. (very minimal)
When the track runnig in the tunel it do a circulation of the air and snow to reer at front , which creates a vacuum between top and down(venturi effect) and the better circulation for cooling the muffler when you run. when you stop the vent is a vent.
Whith the full plate the muffleur come very hot and by radiation when you stop the plate reflect the heat and the plastic come near to melt. Maximum temp for distord is 160 F. when the wheather is below - 15 F no problem. to up you take a chance.
The vent plate whit négative angle baffle with a mosquito net.
the snow can not pass, down to up. (very minimal)
When the track runnig in the tunel it do a circulation of the air and snow to reer at front , which creates a vacuum between top and down(venturi effect) and the better circulation for cooling the muffler when you run. when you stop the vent is a vent.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
interesting.
i haven't had my plastic get hot though, it gets warm, luke warm, but nowhere near hot or melting...I'll keep an eye on it as outside temps increase.
i haven't had my plastic get hot though, it gets warm, luke warm, but nowhere near hot or melting...I'll keep an eye on it as outside temps increase.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yeah, whomever did that - thanks! I am honoured that you guys enjoy the mixed bag of info on this thread!
SledderSteve
Lifetime Member
**Sticky Status** comes from the top but there needs to be some pretty good positive feedback from the ranks before it's considered.Yellowknife said:Yeah, whomever did that - thanks! I am honoured that you guys enjoy the mixed bag of info on this thread!
Your thread is informative, constructive without bashing and most importantly FUN.
It was in fact the mixed bag of info that helped earn the sticky. In addition to product specific info, this thread promotes snowmobiling in general and offers a "slice of life" perspective that many of us in the more Southern regions of the snowbelt may never experience.
Keep up the excellent work.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Cold Weather Starting Update
Well, I was always caught between -22 C (-8 F) and warmer or -30 C (-22 F) and colder with my starting tests. Finally today we had a temperature somewhere in the middle...
It was -27 C this morning (-17 F) and the Phazer would NOT start.
I'm disappointed. I was hoping -29 C was the cut off for needing to be plugged in, but perhaps that moreso near -25 C.
These motors could definitely benefit from a colder weather fuel map.
Well, I was always caught between -22 C (-8 F) and warmer or -30 C (-22 F) and colder with my starting tests. Finally today we had a temperature somewhere in the middle...
It was -27 C this morning (-17 F) and the Phazer would NOT start.
I'm disappointed. I was hoping -29 C was the cut off for needing to be plugged in, but perhaps that moreso near -25 C.
These motors could definitely benefit from a colder weather fuel map.
BV1
Expert
For the record, I have had no issue starting the GT yet, at all.
The past two nights we've had lows of -42C and -40C respectively. Daytime highs are in the -30's. The phazer was in a unheated / uninsulated shed for both nights. Both mornings it started after about 5-8 secs of cranking (Although it misfired once, both times).
I shut it off after a few mins of idling both mornings, I only went out to start it to see if it would start
I've only ever ran 91 Octane in it. We are near sea level here and I know with cold weather and dense air that detonation can be an issue here in a high compression engines, so I run 91 only.
Also Petro-Canada has "Wintergas" 91 Octane which is what I use, I think it has "Tactrol" sp? additives.
-Steve
The past two nights we've had lows of -42C and -40C respectively. Daytime highs are in the -30's. The phazer was in a unheated / uninsulated shed for both nights. Both mornings it started after about 5-8 secs of cranking (Although it misfired once, both times).
I shut it off after a few mins of idling both mornings, I only went out to start it to see if it would start
I've only ever ran 91 Octane in it. We are near sea level here and I know with cold weather and dense air that detonation can be an issue here in a high compression engines, so I run 91 only.
Also Petro-Canada has "Wintergas" 91 Octane which is what I use, I think it has "Tactrol" sp? additives.
-Steve
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
It fired up at or below -30 C for you without being plugged in?
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