Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yeah this sled is accumulating quite the list of issues...as long as Yamaha takes them seriously, I don't mind reporting them to them, and as long as they back me up.
Yamaha is going to warranty the damaged parts from the freeze-up. They are also testing something for this specific freeze-up problem. I don't have any specifics, but they claim that whatever they've done works, so I will be anxious to hear back from Yamaha about getting this update on my sled to avoid this steering issue.
That fuel can is the Rev gas can - it fits perfect back there! lol You can get it from any Ski-doo dealer.
The steering rods will be easy to remove, I've had them almost off while adjusting alignment before.
I'm going to work on a list of issues with this machine. It is ever-so-growing.
Yamaha is going to warranty the damaged parts from the freeze-up. They are also testing something for this specific freeze-up problem. I don't have any specifics, but they claim that whatever they've done works, so I will be anxious to hear back from Yamaha about getting this update on my sled to avoid this steering issue.
That fuel can is the Rev gas can - it fits perfect back there! lol You can get it from any Ski-doo dealer.
The steering rods will be easy to remove, I've had them almost off while adjusting alignment before.
I'm going to work on a list of issues with this machine. It is ever-so-growing.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Guys, I just got off the phone with Yamaha Canada. I gave them this list of issue's with my Mtn Lite:
1. Snow entering around and above [10 8GC-2195A-00-00 PROTECTOR, FRAME A] and melting on motor, then re-freezing in steering boots and around steering tie rods.
2. Open Tunnel, front and rear openings cause excessive ice formation on the running boards and tunnel adding significant weight and causing safety concerns with ski-pants freezing to the sides of the tunnel. Rear idler wheels freezing up. Open 'style' plastic wheels between torsion springs are especially suseptible to ice accumulation.
3. Cold weather starting. Engine will not start unassisted below -25 C. Requires coolant heater below that temperature.
4. Open radiator. Open to damage from branches. Fins are bending in rad just from snow hitting it at speed.
5. LCD Guage fogging while powder riding, internal condensation.
6. Reverse requires rocking sled back and forth to engage about 50% of the time
Every issue above, with exception of the fogging LCD guage has already been reported to the point where the Engineers in Japan are working on it, and some of the above already have solutions which will be given to the dealers to be implemented on our sleds. This is all according to Yamaha Canada Consumer Relations Department.
You can call 416-498-1911 in Canada to speak with them and report your issues. Please report it to your dealer first, then call this number to provide a second source of feedback.
We'll see what happens!
1. Snow entering around and above [10 8GC-2195A-00-00 PROTECTOR, FRAME A] and melting on motor, then re-freezing in steering boots and around steering tie rods.
2. Open Tunnel, front and rear openings cause excessive ice formation on the running boards and tunnel adding significant weight and causing safety concerns with ski-pants freezing to the sides of the tunnel. Rear idler wheels freezing up. Open 'style' plastic wheels between torsion springs are especially suseptible to ice accumulation.
3. Cold weather starting. Engine will not start unassisted below -25 C. Requires coolant heater below that temperature.
4. Open radiator. Open to damage from branches. Fins are bending in rad just from snow hitting it at speed.
5. LCD Guage fogging while powder riding, internal condensation.
6. Reverse requires rocking sled back and forth to engage about 50% of the time
Every issue above, with exception of the fogging LCD guage has already been reported to the point where the Engineers in Japan are working on it, and some of the above already have solutions which will be given to the dealers to be implemented on our sleds. This is all according to Yamaha Canada Consumer Relations Department.
You can call 416-498-1911 in Canada to speak with them and report your issues. Please report it to your dealer first, then call this number to provide a second source of feedback.
We'll see what happens!
woofer700
Newbie
any updates?
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Update:
Snow entering around and above [10 8GC-2195A-00-00 PROTECTOR, FRAME A] and melting on motor, then re-freezing in steering boots and around steering tie rods....
Yamaha has an updated part which has completed testing in Muskoka. The part is going into production shortly and will be available free of charge. It will replace the FRAME A PROTECTOR and seal gaps in the front end that allow snow to enter the engine compartment, as well as extra sealing around the steering boots. In the meantime, Yamaha is asking dealers to silicone around the current FRAME A PROTECTORS to stop snow ingestion. Yamaha is warrantying the parts that busted on mine from snow ingestion and the dealer will be going wild with the silicone until this part is released to fix the problem.
Snow entering around and above [10 8GC-2195A-00-00 PROTECTOR, FRAME A] and melting on motor, then re-freezing in steering boots and around steering tie rods....
Yamaha has an updated part which has completed testing in Muskoka. The part is going into production shortly and will be available free of charge. It will replace the FRAME A PROTECTOR and seal gaps in the front end that allow snow to enter the engine compartment, as well as extra sealing around the steering boots. In the meantime, Yamaha is asking dealers to silicone around the current FRAME A PROTECTORS to stop snow ingestion. Yamaha is warrantying the parts that busted on mine from snow ingestion and the dealer will be going wild with the silicone until this part is released to fix the problem.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Fuel Can Melted Update
Remember how I bragged that the fuel can I had in between my rack wouldn't melt with fuel in it? Well, it WILL melt when it is empty. lol
So I want put a 90 degree elbow on the exhaust outlet - I've seen a few of you have done that...I've never done any exhaust stuff before, so how do those elbows work? Do they bolt on or do they have to be welded or?
Do I just purchase a 1 7/8th's elbow from the auto parts store?
Remember how I bragged that the fuel can I had in between my rack wouldn't melt with fuel in it? Well, it WILL melt when it is empty. lol
So I want put a 90 degree elbow on the exhaust outlet - I've seen a few of you have done that...I've never done any exhaust stuff before, so how do those elbows work? Do they bolt on or do they have to be welded or?
Do I just purchase a 1 7/8th's elbow from the auto parts store?
skater
Newbie
500 mile check up
Picked up my LT from the dealer today after it's 500 mile oil change. I requested they check on all the things I've been reading about in these posts...motor mount bolts; A arm bolts; loose throttle body; slides.
Everything checked out OK. (I already went thru the loose A arm bolts back in December) I did need new slides after 500 miles. I was disapointed about that. The dealer said the slides on the Lights will not last if you ride on any hard packed trails or any roads. They were ment to be in the deep stuff. The tracks do not have brass fitings on all the track holes that ride on the slides...they are only on about every 3rd hole. Trail sleds have them on all the holes. As a result, the LT slides require more snow to stay lubricated. Snow covered roads or hard packed trails at speed will wear out the slides quickly.
About 80% of my miles were in the deeper snow, off trials. The other 20% did the damage. Even in the U.P., if you're out bush wack'en, you have to use some back roads or trails to get around.
I've had no problem with cold starting after about the first 125 miles. I love the sled...it fits my needs perfictly. I don't have a problem with the rear suspention...Its a softer ride and I like that...I still have room to adjust for a stiffer ride. I did put side tunnel panels on after the first 100 miles...it was about an 80% fix.
I'm 5'6" and the riding position is perfict. It takes little effort to stand up and ride the bumps or to manuver thru deep snow. I find myself riding in the standing position a lot. It really is like a dirt bike for the snow.
Last thing...I opened it up really only once for an extended distance and it showed 83 mph on the clock. At the end of the day I checked the GPS and the top speed was 72mph. Which ever it was ...that was plenty fast enough. I can't think of many places in the woods where you can ride that fast anyway. I'm not sure about the GPS accuacy either, the other day it showed I was going 1.7 mph sitting in my chair in my living room.
Picked up my LT from the dealer today after it's 500 mile oil change. I requested they check on all the things I've been reading about in these posts...motor mount bolts; A arm bolts; loose throttle body; slides.
Everything checked out OK. (I already went thru the loose A arm bolts back in December) I did need new slides after 500 miles. I was disapointed about that. The dealer said the slides on the Lights will not last if you ride on any hard packed trails or any roads. They were ment to be in the deep stuff. The tracks do not have brass fitings on all the track holes that ride on the slides...they are only on about every 3rd hole. Trail sleds have them on all the holes. As a result, the LT slides require more snow to stay lubricated. Snow covered roads or hard packed trails at speed will wear out the slides quickly.
About 80% of my miles were in the deeper snow, off trials. The other 20% did the damage. Even in the U.P., if you're out bush wack'en, you have to use some back roads or trails to get around.
I've had no problem with cold starting after about the first 125 miles. I love the sled...it fits my needs perfictly. I don't have a problem with the rear suspention...Its a softer ride and I like that...I still have room to adjust for a stiffer ride. I did put side tunnel panels on after the first 100 miles...it was about an 80% fix.
I'm 5'6" and the riding position is perfict. It takes little effort to stand up and ride the bumps or to manuver thru deep snow. I find myself riding in the standing position a lot. It really is like a dirt bike for the snow.
Last thing...I opened it up really only once for an extended distance and it showed 83 mph on the clock. At the end of the day I checked the GPS and the top speed was 72mph. Which ever it was ...that was plenty fast enough. I can't think of many places in the woods where you can ride that fast anyway. I'm not sure about the GPS accuacy either, the other day it showed I was going 1.7 mph sitting in my chair in my living room.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
The sliders are interesting. With your description of riding terrain, I'd blame it on track tension before anything else. I have 2282 Miles on my Lite, and my sliders are still over 50% left, and I've driven A LOT on hard packed and roads, there's nothing left of my carbides...that's the proof in the pudding. mmmm, pudding.
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
It must have something to do with how you break the slides in as well as track tension. YK, what do you run your tension at? To me, it seems 2-2 1/4 inches is about right. That's about 50-56 mm.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
I run it as loose as I can without racheting. I haven't actually used the belt tension tester on it and measured it up.
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Cheap alternative to weights or tension gauges- for those of you who need one- is a fish scale. YK, are there any disadvantages to running a track that loose? Does it howl more on the hardpack?
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
I don't notice any differences...but who knows, maybe there are disadvantages, but as long as you aren't racheting, I don't see any chance of damage to anything.
Fish scale and a ruler, yep!
Fish scale and a ruler, yep!
couch
Expert
Great thread!!!!
Mountain is a nice machine with a couple of problems. Bought two of these and issues are practically identical - rear suspension is way too soft for anything other than deep powder and the reverse sucks when you need it most. Always engages after startup on the level in the garage but buggers up in the back country - solution seems to be to get off and lift up to transfer weight off the rear which seems to back up my contention that the suspension is too soft to fully extend. Have two of them maxed out and at 175 lbs the bloody thing still bottoms in normal use. Have had the loose nuts on the front end - could actually hear it. Slides do not like to be dry - after 1 k at 30 kph could smell them burning and could see plastic melted and stuck to the guides. Be sure to dip in powder when available.
Biggest problem - the &^%^hole at Yamaha Customer Service - told me that the problems were the result of using a mountain machine in Newfoundland where "there are no mountains" (he also said thet there were none in Quebec either) and to expect to spend more $$ to modify the machine to suit my use! If thats the case, why sell it with only 80 hp and promo it as being for use on or off trail. Get real, the guys in the Rockies run much bigger and nastier sleds which are not stock. If I was really on the edge, yes I would expect to have to modify but not in back country ungroomed runs. If I have to deal with this chap anymore I would have to give more consideration to BRP ar AC products.
On the plus side - the mountain is fantastic in the deep stuff especially for breaking trails and you don't have to destroy the trail by razzing it to get it to go like most of the "bigger" sleds with paddles have to do thanks to the torque at the low revs. Doesn't smell or smoke like the 2 strokes either which is nice and refreshing.
Re the 12 power source - put two on mine. One is tied to the power from the ignition and which will give you power when key is on while the other for the GPS is direct from the battery as it is a low power drain - oh yeah - don't forget to use a fused disconnect from the feed. Trashed the useless OEM box and built a GRP one with space for the belt, tools, 1st aid kit, ratchet strap, flashlight, and firestarter and a rail so you can bungee on more gear if need be.
- . .:ORC
Mountain is a nice machine with a couple of problems. Bought two of these and issues are practically identical - rear suspension is way too soft for anything other than deep powder and the reverse sucks when you need it most. Always engages after startup on the level in the garage but buggers up in the back country - solution seems to be to get off and lift up to transfer weight off the rear which seems to back up my contention that the suspension is too soft to fully extend. Have two of them maxed out and at 175 lbs the bloody thing still bottoms in normal use. Have had the loose nuts on the front end - could actually hear it. Slides do not like to be dry - after 1 k at 30 kph could smell them burning and could see plastic melted and stuck to the guides. Be sure to dip in powder when available.
Biggest problem - the &^%^hole at Yamaha Customer Service - told me that the problems were the result of using a mountain machine in Newfoundland where "there are no mountains" (he also said thet there were none in Quebec either) and to expect to spend more $$ to modify the machine to suit my use! If thats the case, why sell it with only 80 hp and promo it as being for use on or off trail. Get real, the guys in the Rockies run much bigger and nastier sleds which are not stock. If I was really on the edge, yes I would expect to have to modify but not in back country ungroomed runs. If I have to deal with this chap anymore I would have to give more consideration to BRP ar AC products.
On the plus side - the mountain is fantastic in the deep stuff especially for breaking trails and you don't have to destroy the trail by razzing it to get it to go like most of the "bigger" sleds with paddles have to do thanks to the torque at the low revs. Doesn't smell or smoke like the 2 strokes either which is nice and refreshing.
Re the 12 power source - put two on mine. One is tied to the power from the ignition and which will give you power when key is on while the other for the GPS is direct from the battery as it is a low power drain - oh yeah - don't forget to use a fused disconnect from the feed. Trashed the useless OEM box and built a GRP one with space for the belt, tools, 1st aid kit, ratchet strap, flashlight, and firestarter and a rail so you can bungee on more gear if need be.
- . .:ORC
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Can you show us pics of your new rear storage?
That 'no mountains' comment is typical when they are full of it.
That 'no mountains' comment is typical when they are full of it.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Can any of you that have attached an exhaust elbow to the end of the stock exhaust let me know what sized you used and how you put it on?
I can only find 2 inch elbows, whic is larger than the outside diameter of the stock exhaust.
Help appreciated!
Also - anyone know any canadian distributors for K&N oil filters?
I can only find 2 inch elbows, whic is larger than the outside diameter of the stock exhaust.
Help appreciated!
Also - anyone know any canadian distributors for K&N oil filters?
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yellowknife said:
Do you know if this only is something yamaha US/Canada will offer or is this backed up by the fabric? Talked to my dealer about this and he havent heard anything about it (norway)
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