rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
All exhaust headers if thin and lite enough will glow red when hot. Usually you can only see the glow in the dark. I've seen this on dirt bikes, street bikes, and cars. Titanium headers glow even in some light. It's totally normal. If there is no power loss then covering the holes should have no drawbacks except Yami will blame that if your motor blows. That blows.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
It's so disturbing with that glow next to/and possibly under the fuel tank! LOL
Thanks for the feedback. What's your opinion on covering the front hole as well?
Thanks for the feedback. What's your opinion on covering the front hole as well?
yzf1999
Expert
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 475
- Location
- Bloomington, Illinois
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 Yamaha SR Viper LTX SE
Can't you use some exhaust header tape in that area, just as a precaution since it is under the fuel tank, then cover the hole??
Wow is all I can say 
This thread rates top billing
Yellowknife this is one of the most outstanding reviews I think i've ever seen fantastic job keep up the good work. 
This thread rates top billing
Yellowknife this is one of the most outstanding reviews I think i've ever seen fantastic job keep up the good work. 
indy2007
Veteran
Yellowknife, I checked out your pics, and they are good. The one with your skid pan pulling through the bolts was interesting. I put a black skid pan on mine and it came with aluminum spacers that went between the bulk head and the skid pan. I guess it was for that reason alone, the accumulation of ice and also expansion. So far so good on mine. No sign of the bolts pulling through!
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yeah, use heat barrier/header wrap all the way from header until around inside of plastic
around muffler if possible. This will keep heat in exhaust which I think was Yamaha's intention
with hole in tunnel. Like ceramic coating, supposed to give more power.
around muffler if possible. This will keep heat in exhaust which I think was Yamaha's intention
with hole in tunnel. Like ceramic coating, supposed to give more power.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks for the compliments guys - glad you enjoy it.
Man I am pissing out coolant like a fountain now! I barely made it home tonight.
Gyps - can you see the coolant heater in the picture I posted earlier? Are you having trouble figuring out what part of the sled that is? They've got it installed on the other side of the bulkhead, so not where the fan is, but closer to the motor. Spliced in between the hose that comes off the rad and where it meets the oil cooler. I can't get any better pics than that cause everything is so tight in there.
I'll try, but I think that's as good as I can get it.
I'm going to go tear the panels off, fill it up with coolant and run it till it overheats in the garage so I can find out where the hell the leak is coming from!
Man I am pissing out coolant like a fountain now! I barely made it home tonight.
Gyps - can you see the coolant heater in the picture I posted earlier? Are you having trouble figuring out what part of the sled that is? They've got it installed on the other side of the bulkhead, so not where the fan is, but closer to the motor. Spliced in between the hose that comes off the rad and where it meets the oil cooler. I can't get any better pics than that cause everything is so tight in there.
I'll try, but I think that's as good as I can get it.
I'm going to go tear the panels off, fill it up with coolant and run it till it overheats in the garage so I can find out where the hell the leak is coming from!
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yellowknife said:
Was glowing red on my too before i closed the tunnel. Same thing as on my wr450f dirtbike. First time I noticed it I was shocked and tought the timing was way off but I calmed down after I was told that this thing was normal.
Also I dont think we should worry about fuel tank melting down. There are a heatshield between tank and exhaustpipe and I also remember back from school when we tested out to boil water on open fire in plastic bottles and milk bottles made of paper and it worked great. Either plastic or paper burned up under the prosses because the inside liquid cools down the material
Keep up your excellent writing, its a pleasure to read
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Gyps - i got some more pics for you of the coolant heater...this is definitely it...same as posted before...
Larger view, see it on the left/bottom...
The wires go between the oil tank and the fan, through the bulkhead...
This is a shot between the oil tank and the fan, see the black plug way back there in the middle? That's attached to the back of the coolant heater in the first couple pics...again, the heater is installed between where the coolant goes into the motor on the front of the motor and the bulkhead, it is not installed in the area containing the fan/oil tank/battery.
Another shot of it, bottom left...click any of the pics to enlarge...
Okay - I found the damned coolant leak! No thanks to my dealer...lol
Anywho, I topped it up, let it run till it shut itself down (overheat protection) and then started randomly squeezing the hoses and BAM one of them starting spraying antifreeze like mad! The hose was coming off the base a little and the clamp was not positioned properly to hold it on.
I learned a few things while I was doing this. I ran the sled until it shut down without the airbox in place. I even took the belly pan off so I could get under there to look for leaks. Anywho, the oil breather hose that goes into the airbox - it exhausts warm air, it does not suck in air. The other 3 hoses, one on the airbox (small) and the little tiny two hoses that plug into the electrical connectors (on the bottom of them) suck air in.
Since the airbox hose for the oil breather pushes air out/exhausts, those who tip their sleds over or roll it, shut it off right away, don't let it sit there and idle because I think that would continuously pump oil out of the hose while the engine is running if it is tipped the wrong way.
Also, re-routing that oil breather within the airbox may not work as well as I hoped...the bottom of the airbox filled with ice buildup today from powder riding, and the oil breather hose was half jammed with ice. I'm not sure what would happen if it became totally plugged up and could no longer relieve pressure...I imagine something would blow, thus its important for the end of it to steer clear of debris, although I think it should have its own spot outside of the airbox so that you don't end up dumping oil into your intake filter when the sled tips during powder riding or whatever.
Also, when letting my machine shut down on overheat mode, I noticed my fan didn't turn on. Turns out I blew a fuse! I'm not sure why...it could be because snow build-up prevented the fan from turning earlier in the day, and it blew a fuse...I'm just guessing, but as soon as that fan stopped working out on the trail today my overheat light came on...that's proof in the pudding, phazers NEED the fan!
Also, indy - my skid plate bolts have spacers built into them...they're one piece...same as yours or?
A few other points to note...guys are complaining about greasing their sleds, and that the grease escapes out these little vents beside the zerks...well, I gotta say, how slow are you pumping grease into them??? I stuck my gun on and starting pumping it until the grease was flowing out the ends of the shafts and I barely lost any grease outside these little vents beside the zerks, so I really don't think they are that big a deal. And someone also commented on the chassis needing to be greased more often than the manual recommends to preserve the bushings, well, after 3300 km's, only 700 shy of what the manual recommends, I have to say that the suspension was still full of grease and it didn't require much, so I think that yammi's 4000 km interval is pretty accurate myself.
Also, for those who don't know about their fuses, its good to know where they are, which ones are spares, and which ones power what. They are labelled on the inside of the fusebox covers...
Ever see underneath the motor?
I gotta say, tearing this sled down so many times as I have, the panels are a bit of a pain and you have to take the airbox off every time to get at anything in there, and it really doesn't take long, however, every bolt and thread that you unscrew and re-screw needs to be done with extra caution...the threads on these machines are right in the frame of every component, so I would hate to screw up one of the threads...be extra careful when putting bolts back into place. When I had the belly pan off, I found that threaded clip that fell off for the headlight pod. hehehe
This was my first time removing the skid plate and the belly pan. It made me realise how I could have cut a better skid plate out of puck board!! What a rip off those things are! LOL
At this rate with all these tear downs I've done, I'm in line for the world's fastest oil change when it comes time to doing it in the next couple weeks.
Larger view, see it on the left/bottom...
The wires go between the oil tank and the fan, through the bulkhead...
This is a shot between the oil tank and the fan, see the black plug way back there in the middle? That's attached to the back of the coolant heater in the first couple pics...again, the heater is installed between where the coolant goes into the motor on the front of the motor and the bulkhead, it is not installed in the area containing the fan/oil tank/battery.
Another shot of it, bottom left...click any of the pics to enlarge...
Okay - I found the damned coolant leak! No thanks to my dealer...lol
Anywho, I topped it up, let it run till it shut itself down (overheat protection) and then started randomly squeezing the hoses and BAM one of them starting spraying antifreeze like mad! The hose was coming off the base a little and the clamp was not positioned properly to hold it on.
I learned a few things while I was doing this. I ran the sled until it shut down without the airbox in place. I even took the belly pan off so I could get under there to look for leaks. Anywho, the oil breather hose that goes into the airbox - it exhausts warm air, it does not suck in air. The other 3 hoses, one on the airbox (small) and the little tiny two hoses that plug into the electrical connectors (on the bottom of them) suck air in.
Since the airbox hose for the oil breather pushes air out/exhausts, those who tip their sleds over or roll it, shut it off right away, don't let it sit there and idle because I think that would continuously pump oil out of the hose while the engine is running if it is tipped the wrong way.
Also, re-routing that oil breather within the airbox may not work as well as I hoped...the bottom of the airbox filled with ice buildup today from powder riding, and the oil breather hose was half jammed with ice. I'm not sure what would happen if it became totally plugged up and could no longer relieve pressure...I imagine something would blow, thus its important for the end of it to steer clear of debris, although I think it should have its own spot outside of the airbox so that you don't end up dumping oil into your intake filter when the sled tips during powder riding or whatever.
Also, when letting my machine shut down on overheat mode, I noticed my fan didn't turn on. Turns out I blew a fuse! I'm not sure why...it could be because snow build-up prevented the fan from turning earlier in the day, and it blew a fuse...I'm just guessing, but as soon as that fan stopped working out on the trail today my overheat light came on...that's proof in the pudding, phazers NEED the fan!
Also, indy - my skid plate bolts have spacers built into them...they're one piece...same as yours or?
A few other points to note...guys are complaining about greasing their sleds, and that the grease escapes out these little vents beside the zerks...well, I gotta say, how slow are you pumping grease into them??? I stuck my gun on and starting pumping it until the grease was flowing out the ends of the shafts and I barely lost any grease outside these little vents beside the zerks, so I really don't think they are that big a deal. And someone also commented on the chassis needing to be greased more often than the manual recommends to preserve the bushings, well, after 3300 km's, only 700 shy of what the manual recommends, I have to say that the suspension was still full of grease and it didn't require much, so I think that yammi's 4000 km interval is pretty accurate myself.
Also, for those who don't know about their fuses, its good to know where they are, which ones are spares, and which ones power what. They are labelled on the inside of the fusebox covers...
Ever see underneath the motor?
I gotta say, tearing this sled down so many times as I have, the panels are a bit of a pain and you have to take the airbox off every time to get at anything in there, and it really doesn't take long, however, every bolt and thread that you unscrew and re-screw needs to be done with extra caution...the threads on these machines are right in the frame of every component, so I would hate to screw up one of the threads...be extra careful when putting bolts back into place. When I had the belly pan off, I found that threaded clip that fell off for the headlight pod. hehehe
This was my first time removing the skid plate and the belly pan. It made me realise how I could have cut a better skid plate out of puck board!! What a rip off those things are! LOL
At this rate with all these tear downs I've done, I'm in line for the world's fastest oil change when it comes time to doing it in the next couple weeks.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks for the feedback on the glowing pipe guys - have all of you covered both holes or just the rear one??
My rear rack should arrive this week, when I install it, I'm going to cover the front hole as well, and throw some more bolts onto the rear cover, my 10 minute job needs some fine tuning LOL
After 300+ km's, I have not had any heating problems with the rear tunnel covered. That includes deep powder, and even hard packed riding all day today.
I like that boxed around the exhaust/hole idea that's out there, Yammi should do that, but I'll stick with the easy flat home made covers. It will be interesting to see what they do for 2008.
My rear rack should arrive this week, when I install it, I'm going to cover the front hole as well, and throw some more bolts onto the rear cover, my 10 minute job needs some fine tuning LOL
After 300+ km's, I have not had any heating problems with the rear tunnel covered. That includes deep powder, and even hard packed riding all day today.
I like that boxed around the exhaust/hole idea that's out there, Yammi should do that, but I'll stick with the easy flat home made covers. It will be interesting to see what they do for 2008.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
What do you meen about the front hole? The tiny narrow hole "connected" to the big fat rear or..?
I covered everything with one aluminum peace on my.
I covered everything with one aluminum peace on my.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
sniperviper said:
Yeah, there is an open section, at least on the mtn lite's, under the pipe at the front of the tunnel under the fuel tank, then there's a small section of aluminum, then the rear hole begins, the one I covered. Do the short tracks just have one large hole?
bouboul
Newbie
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
I think those 'vents' are just going to plug up for the most part, and still leak water over top of the tunnel and down the running boards, no?
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Sorry, I now know what you ment. I have left the front hole under the tank open. It havent made any problems for me yet.
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