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Hi! On my RX1 Warrior -04, speedo show 222 km/h and gps 206 km/h.

Eliminate the transfer would definitely help, but how fun is that:-( Well, the season is almost over so i have the whole summer to find a solution, maybe a different suspension. On my last turbo Rx1 i put a ProX suspension and it worked well (240 hp). Maybe a Cat or Doo this time?

No, i dont have any answer yet:-( Maybe its wrong suspension for that kind of power. No problems at 0,8 bar (260 dynoed hp)

Hello! I cut the block around 5 mm. When i lift the front of the snowmobile 30 cm and press down the back until the coupling block hits stop i notiice the track get looser.

When the back of skid compress and the front end dont the track actually get looser, but when the whole skid compress the track tension rise. The front arm cross shaft is mounted at same height as original shaft.

Update! The ride is much smoother than original but right now i fighting with track ratching. At low boost 0,8 bar it work but when i hit the throttle at high boost, 1,2 bar the track start ratching. When the skid transfer the track get looser.

I decide to make my own mount kit because it is a little bit of a challenge. I moved the skid back 5 mm to gain clearence to the extroverts. I read somewhere that cut of up to 10 mm at the back of the coupling block will give you more transfer. I will let you know how it ended up when we get...

Did you find any solution on the problem? On my Warrior the track will hit the rear cooler!

This is how it looks when i slightly lower the machine so the whole rails just touching the ground. Observe that the chassie mount is just a template!

On the picture the limiter strap in front is not in position, thats why the block is where it is. When you tighten it up the block move to the upper position. The cc is 25.55" i checked it more than twice:-)

I tried to move the suspension back 12mm but the tension on track was to high. When used the original hole for front arm, the tension was in range. It also looks like the track will hit the rearcooler before it hit the rubber on rails, any idea? Is it possible to lower the back mount, lets say...

Yes!

The CC is 25,55" according to Fast! Will this suspension handle 310 dynoed hp?

I will check it as soon as i get the rails back (paint removing)

Yes, the CC is very important! I read somewhere 25,555", maybe that is correct?

Hello AKrider! I´m using 9 tooth Whal Bros driver. When i looked at the original pro-action i notice that the paint was scrathed off on the front arm because the clearence to the tooth. I wonder if center to center measurement hole in chassie for front and rear arm should be the same as on the...

Ahicks, after a little bit of thinking, maybe it is, as you say, better to move the front arm back to gain clearence!? I will compare the pro-action and M10.

Thanks for the reply but it isn´t the rail that touch the teeth it is the upper part of the front arm, it is a little bit thicker than original. I dont think i have to cut away more than about 3/16". I read somewhere that to use original front hole and it wouldn´t be any problem with original...

Thank you, but if it was on the Vector the suspension is different than Pro action on a -04 Warrior. If i use the original front mount hole it looks like i have to cut off a bit of the tooths on my extroverts. Anyone have the CC measurment (front-rear bolts)?

Hello! Can anywone help me with the center to center measurement between front and rear arm bolts on a pre 2001 M-10 suspension? Is it right that the front arm bolt position is the same as original on a 04 Warrior?