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tomorrow we will ride a nice area that has some good pulls, I will let her rip and post track speed......there is no way I am near 62, my guess is 45ish, but we will see...... I assume you took the swaybar out and low pressure on the shocks? Simmons gen 2 helped a lot on the bucking bronco...

Yup thats just what she will do, time for some clutch work.....add weight to the primary to lower the max rpm, change the spring to blue-silver -blue ,better upshift and helps rpm,helix at 46-48 deg, u will love it. Download the manual and look at the clutching charts,really helpful PS you...

Try it, its cheap and quick to do, HOWEVER remember you must trim the gasket edge to fit the 43 in there and use a 70 tooth chain..... 18/42 drops right in. 17 tooth upper will fit if you turn down the spacer,washer and bevel the edge of the nut so they all clear the chain edge.

Re: other considerations 100% correct, and I also believe the 174 2.5 paddle may "puff out" a bit more than the 162 did thus killing some of my gear. Kind of like a drag tire that "grows" more in the top end runs, this makes total sense to me as the sled ran about the same speed with the...

Huge, Everyone who has ridden the sled before and after has been stunned, even my die hard Polaris buddies grudgingly admit they really like the sled now. It has been a huge amount of work :o| :o| , i ride 2-4 times a week(15 min from house) and have done a LOT of careful testing #$%&* , and I...

Yesterday I did a top end run, hardpack with 174/2.5 track, I run 18/43 gears, sled is minus 95 lbs motor bonestock, and was able to hit 85 mph....better than I figured with that gear. Oh I was at 6000 feet, 10 deg.

The only place the sway does any good is on the groomed trail, other than that its in the trash with it.........tried a 13mm,11mm and it was justa :o| :o| fight, take that baby off

I would say it would run about 75-80 max, I will try atop end run today and let you know. Climbing grunt is really nice, major change with the correct clutch. Chain has to be a 70 link, you also have to trim the gasket with a 43 lower, no big deal,put on gear and chain and carefully use razor...

6000-10,000 ft.......I run 18/43 gear, not fast but damn quick.... :-o

nextech makes a kit, but do yourself a huge favor and get the timbersled, save 30+ lbs and works a bunch better

shockwave is always a good idea, BUT set you rpm in the primary first then fine tune with the shockwave. The helix is not a rpm limiter. Get your enguagement right and your weights set then mess with helix, then go back to weights ect ect until perfect........or totally lost...LOL

I took off 96 pounds total (and yes I weighed every part) made some stuff myself out of billet aluminum. Moved battery (7) to seat, went with a 174" camo ext and run 18/43 gears. Sled works amazing for stock power. And pump gas no worries just ride the crap out of it 3 times a week, full...

It's not very hard.... download manual and take your time

I have run the following, 20/40,19/42,18/42,18/43, 17/42 17/43, 17/43 kicks butt climbing but I stick with 18/43 for chain life. You might want to try 19/40 or 20/40 (stock mtn gearing)

55 with sled weight OFF the skis, always jack up sled to adjust

Yes, great for the trail, I tried a 13 mm......sucks for boondocking/powder....imho

4000 is perfect, forget about that, throw some weight at your primary to reduce top end rpm, then get a shockwave adjustable helix, best money spent IMHO

They are horrible on hyfax, go with hyperfax and scratchers...zero issues

They make titanium steering parts for the sprintcars with super high strength aluminum heim ends, weigh nothing and super strong. I may have to build one. You could also probably do a chrome moly side shaft 1/2 the diameter of the stock one and still be overkill

The post is easy, I am looking for all the other cross shafts ect ect. That side shaft is a tank