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75psi is way high. I would think that would flood out the engine. Something with the fuel regulator or the the fuel return line could cause that. You could verify TPS readings in the diagnostic mode to make sure they're in spec, it's the very first sensor check that comes up when entering that...

If you enter the diagnostic mode on the gauge cluster, you can view the temp sensor readings (coolant and air intake) to see if they are in spec at any given time. The readings are in celsius. This is super easy to do and saves time and $$ replacing sensors randomly.

Here's a video link showing the slop in the lower steering bushings. This is where the tie rods attach. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SBcKbwvVTN21hseu8

Ah... I guess I couldn't see clearly where your spring adjusters were at, I had to compare to pics of mine. Just touching the springs when unloaded is correct.

I was thinking about going with the SB sway bar on one of my GT's but decided against it after some testing. With the GT bar mounted all the way forward (stiffest setting) I only noticed a very minimal affect on how tippy it felt. I did however notice a rather negative affect on ride quality on...

Are you just changing the TPS? It's only one screw on a '07. Not the easiest to get access to but not too difficult.

Upbushman still makes them but didn't have any currently in stock. I would have gone that route but didn't want to wait a few weeks for new ones to be made... winters are too short as it is and I couldn't stand the massive slop my sleds had. So far the bearings have worked out great. Nice smooth...

Gauge cluster lights should come on when the key and kill switch are on. Both of my 2010 Phazer's had heavily corroded ignition switch connectors that caused issues when I'd touch or move them. I used a liquid plumbing flux (acid) to eat out all the green stuff in the connectors, then sprayed...

I did some looking and found that the Yamaha regulator/rectifier works like most every other. A/C power from the three stator wires flows through the rectifier diodes to convert it to DC power, then it gets pulled down to the correct system voltage (13-14v). The regulating process makes a lot of...

While my above statement is correct for sleds 20 years ago, it might not apply to modern sleds if they use a switching style power supply. These are able to take whatever voltage is coming in and convert it directly to what's needed on the output side without loading up the stator anymore than...

Many don't understand how sled stators work. On a car, the alternator's output is regulated by controlling the current in the field windings. This alters the magnetic field output which in turn affects the power being generated by the stator windings. The more you load it down, the more it try's...

Pretty unlikely that was the problem. Stators wear out over time from heat breaking down the insulation, your HID bulbs wouldn't contribute to that.

Have you downloaded the service manual for your sled? I was having a random low speed driveability issue with one of my 2010 Phazers. It would buck, kick, backfire occasionally and stall out. Half throttle and above it always worked great. I suspected a faulty TPS (throttle position sensor) but...

I'm a newbie on this site and did a ton of reading already, LOT's of great info to be found! Thanks to all who contributed. I purchased a couple 2010 Phazer GT models not too long ago and did my usual "disassemble every last thing and start over" to both sleds. Even though they both looked...

2007 models had a single wall 8.1 gallon tank. Starting in 2008, they all had a 7 gallon double wall tank to meet the new EPA requirements at that time. The larger capacity tank from the '07 fits right in as is. Your original fuel pump and gas gauge sender also fit perfect. The only change is...

Another great option for increased fuel capacity is to swap in the 8.1 gallon tank from a 2007 model. I easily gained another 15 to 20 miles of range with that tank.