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I ignored this to my own peril: broke, replaced or welded; 3 silencers, 2 sets of MBRP SS Y-pipes, and one stock Y-pipe. I have attempted to repair it since (NOW the sled decides it doesn't want to run). In 11,970 miles I have NEVER ended a season with an intact exhaust after it hit 5000 miles...

I put a dab of Automotive Goo over one of the tears on my track. It's still there after 5000 miles - 30 miles shy of 12000 now.

I've noticed another problem. Not only does it stall when you slow down, or come to a stop. I was blasting down a straight-away and it stalled-out. It just quit, and coasted to a stop. Outside temp was probably 5*F It took a few cranks to get it going again. Did it twice in the same weekend...

Good thing it did cause you would have just ended up pulling the skid and buying new rails cause they will crack somewhere else AFTER you put it all back together and put a few miles on it. BTDT :o| and they were done by a fabricating shop. Sled is looking good though :yam:

Same here. Started at around 8000 miles +/- (11,000 now) It warms-up fine, but as soon as you come to that first, or second STOP sign engine shuts off, gauges stay lit-up (didn't notice any codes) a few cranks and it's going again. Won't repeat until I shut it off and let it sit long enough to...

I always have the weight of the sled on the suspension before I do any final torquing. Otherwise, you could have some binding.

'07 Attak GT - 10K miles. Ditto: Flashing Engine/Warning light with "12" displayed. Thanks for the tip - Stator on its way.

I concur. DUMB! I don't know who's worse: The people who think this is a good idea, or the people who listen to them? Who did the study, UC Berkley? First THEY ban soda pop, deep-fried pie, Bake-sales, etc... because they think it makes people too fat. Now trail signs because THEY think it...

Very well could be the TORS - check your throttle cable routing, and if it speeds up when the bars are cranked either way. This can be real touchy sometimes. I've seen this before - real trip wrecker

Beautiful sled!

It's only MSRP - The market will straighten it out eventually. But for once I am happy to say that I DON'T need a new snowmobile this year. That doesn't mean it wouldn't be nice to have an XTX skid and EPS - eventually ;)

I think the gauge pod is modular (Mode button on all of them) so look for a white connector just off of the Y-split in the harness, just behind the reverse lever. There should be a 1" retainer clip - undo that and it should be right there if it has one???

Well...I live here, 1/4 mile from the trail and so far, I've trailered to Raco and Newberry to avoid all of the snirt and gravel. You can also forget Kinross/Trout Lake. You will be better off heading West towards Newberry, Seney or Munising. Last weekend, we rode out of McMillan up to Grand...

Ugly but functional - although I would find a way to hinge that ramp extension before somebody screws up a hood.

Yes, and Y.E.S. covered it.

They are heavy...but I also keep hearing that you can't get the reliability out of most "lighter" 2-stroke sleds either.

It could be the marginal snow kit but my friend said it was something different and more expensive??? Anybody???

I'd almost suggest building a completely new one from scratch. It seems the more you try to "fix" the problem by welding, the more problems you create. I had the same conversation with Yamaha about my rails. Y.E.S. definitely means, "NO!" when it comes to the skid.

I have an Attak GT which is essentially the same thing. I agree, the EC is not worth the extra cost. Better front shocks can be had for 1/3 of that cost and will do quite well - guys sell them on here all the time.

...To DVD??? (Charlie Sheen movie)