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i think the wind sheild mount goes with the head lamp pod/mount from when i looked at my brothers 13 gt. i think it would be negliable. lots of guys run with it locked open or put on the barn of parts header. as long as the motor is there plugged it, it should trip no codes. i suggested...

all the yamaha 4 strokes prefer/run better if you roll onto the throttle over just punch it.

i have been thinking about doing this with an old rx1 motor i have here in a wrecked chassis as there have been a few 3 holer chassis come up around me for sale with blown motor. after looking at it, i would swap the tunnel over onto the apex xtx bulk head and swap the upper plastic/hood over...

if you want to run with kn pod filters , you need to use the yellow aftermarket cv springs for it to behave properly. did it for sappling killers 04 rx1 mod sled.

on the carbed sleds, the relays where above right footwell. on the efi sleds, they where mounted above the left footwell. have you looked at the starter solenoid for dirty contacts on the plug in?

i know the rx sleds had it as well but i never got into it myself. btt for you at least.

yup. it was fine at the ty ride but that was all long higher speed runs. saturday i took my nephew out (sisters kid) for his 1st trail run on his own sled and he had 4 oopsies into the sticks with only his pride hurt. we where not running as fast as i usually do but he did well for his 1st...

not usually. how many mi on it?

2011 apex xtx with 25000 mi (40000 km). battery shorted last season on ty ride. replaced battery in off season as sled was not being ridden. made it till sat pm before battery was too dead to start sled again. boosted it and got it home. got a voltage to injector code as i was parking it in...

if it still doesn't want to go once you get the fuel leaks under control, probably will need a valve adjustment. the 3 cyl yamaha motors seem to need it sooner than the 4 cyl.

needs to run track on stand and you adjust the track adj l/s or r/s to get the track to move over to get it centred.

make sure you check for loose rivits under the fuel tank as them coming loose can help cause the exh to break.

i have had one stuck enough that the bolt came out and peeled all the threads. i tapped it for a nc bolt and used red lock tight to put it back in. i keep a new rear axle in stock now as we have bent/worn out a few as it fits everything but a mono shock skid since some time in the early 90's.

i did a 2011 vk540 III that the shaft was seized in the spacers. i got the nut off no problem but it would not move and i was hitting the tool RobX-1 put the picture up of with a 6lb sledge. bent the tool to look like an s and i ended up cutting the shaft out and saving the spacers with a 60t...

i know. i am on my 2nd one as i destroyed my 1st one trying to save an axle on a vk540 III that all the spacers where seized on.

scotch brite the clutch faces and i would leave it alone. not seeing anything that worries me in the pics but not a top shelf expert.

did you try higher rated springs? i replaced the rear torsions on my 11 a few years ago when they sacked out from milage/age.

take a few pictures with your phone so it is easier to reassemble as i can do it in my sleep by now. the way i do it, 1-back off rear axle nut to top of threads 2-smack on end of shaft on nut with a rubber hammer or a peice of wood and a regular hammer so that shaft moves 3-back off track...

did the nitros come from the factory with the reservoir fox floats? i don't remeber. i do know they came with standard fox floats.

if the rear wheel looks similar to this odds are the bearings are not replaceable.