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Not sure about replacement skid, but I'm very happy with my mono now that I had the shock revalved and resprung by hygear. If the rest of the skid is in good shape, might want to consider that. A search will produce lots of good feedback by just fixing the mono shock.

Perfect. Thanks!

So i bought my Apex used last year, and of course, the transfer rod adjustment tool did not come with it. I'm sure I could buy a new one, but all I really need is the measurements of the max/min lines on it. Perhaps one fine gentleman out there could do me the huge favor of measuring these...

Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll give both a try. Took the shock out today to send out. Pretty sure the adjuster wasn't even working, so I'm expecting a big improvement this season.

It's an RTX, so fox floats up front, adjustable mono in the back (not ohlins). I have no complaints with the front. I'm going to leave those alone for now. But the rear needs big improvement for the big bumps. Trying to decide if valving alone will do it or if I should spend the extra...

Looking for any feedback/experience with the hygear dual spring rate upgrade for the stock mono shock. I'm not a heavy guy, but wondering if it's worth it for the anti-bottoming performance, or if just revalving will do the job. Anyone out there with one or both options?

Does this really work? I haven't heard of this solution, other than to check that it is in spec. When I move to new carbides, I will definitely try the snow trackers. Which "aggressive" level should I be looking at?

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I guess I'll try the shims first because I really like the amount of bite I get with the single carbide. If the darting is reduced significantly, I'll be happy. Not worried about floatation too much, so stock skis should be fine for me.

Darting! Did 600k in 2 days on the weekend up around North Bay. This was my first ride on the new to me machine. Like I said - very happy with it - other than the constant darting. I've tried different pressures in the fox floats, but did not find much improvement. I've also read...

I'm trying Shell Rotella T5 0w40. This is my first 4 stroke sled, but I've been running the Rotella T6 (10w40) in my track bike for years. It's one of the cheapest synthetics out there, and I Don't notice any difference compared to the ultra expensive ones like Motul or Repsol. It's even...

Ya, I did the grounding blocks already, and cleaned any corrosion I could find in the starter connections as well. I'll play with the solonoid and relays like you said.

Any way to know for sure without buying a new one?

So here is the problem - I turn the key to on, and everything sounds and looks fine - fuel pump is on, tack sweeps. But when I go to start, I just get a click, which I think is the solonoid. It will do this a few times, until one time it finally works, and starts up no problem. When it does...

That's funny. Me too! I know it's supposed to be in the tool kit, but mine was missing.

Haven't tried either, but just replaced mine with Yamis. The updated stainless ones are only $90 each here in Canada - proly less in u.s., which I noticed is a lot cheaper than any aftermarkets. And being stainless, the cracking issues should be gone. Good luck with the swap. Mine were so...

DO you mean the 5w rather than 0w? I was wondering how much difference this would really make.

I come from the superbike world, and Rotella T6 5W40 is used quite a bit by many different riders - including R1 guys. Just wondering if anyone tried it in their Yami 4 stroke sled? I know it's marketed for diesel, but it has all the certs for bike engines. Plus it's a lot cheaper than most...

That sucks. Ya, I didn't know really what to listen for when I bought it. Just glad that only 1 y pipe was bad. My bill was only about $160 for the pipe and 2 new gaskets for the ends. New donuts came free from the dealer I bought it from.

I totally agree. It's not so much the miles either (only 3700), it's the time that really kills - 6+ years, like you said. I don't mind doing the work either. I like to know exactly what I have. Just have to finish the exhaust, replace front suspension bushings, replace steering post...

Thanks for the tip. Will do. Well the exhaust is out! WOW! Even with one y pipe cut off, it was still really tight getting the rest out, but got it. Once out, on a bench, I wiggled and twisted the y pipes out of the rear section. As much work as it was, There was no way that was going...