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I have mounted o2 sensors in the muffler before. At lower rpm you might get some fresh air pulsing back to the sensor. Most of the widebands do not recomend mounting before the tubo because of the extra heat.
If you are not going nuts with the boost I would give it a try before the turbo heat...
I was playing around with BorgWarner MatchBot program for a bit.
It has a lot of neet info in it for making a turbo choice, you can relate it
to other turbo manufactures. What becomes quite prevalent is the amount
of air you need at high altitudes if you are running a efficient...
I like it because because it adds fuel by injector timing vs a percentage base, that is what you want for a piggy back controller for a turbo. How clean and precisely it fire the injectors will determine if it is a hunk of poop or a good product, still not a suitable controller for a boosted sled.
This seems to works well, It is a all in one unit, I only have 200 miles on it (leaded fuel two-smoker with poor 12v dc).
I like it, you can program the outer sweep to read from 11.5 to 14, no gliches with it so far
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php
Re: Track speeds
I can not recall the track speed, it has been a few years.
Putting a BOV close to were the vent lines for the carbs are should help with throttle chop. I spent sometime setting the float hights on it. It was way better that the way it was, I don't think you can totaly...
I like what you have done on the yamerdoo, that project just keeps getting cooler, way to go outside the bun! I have a wack of questions for ya so I will be bugging you soon.
I hate carbs but they work well on old vector.
The BOV is just a cheep plastic bosch one.
I was lookin at some old vids, had a vector and never had to jet it any were any temp................ honstly. Old powderliteds kit Ran it on av gas mostly @ 15psi Throtle chop was a real bitch though.
The thing alwalls ran like in the vid
Checkout the nerds on the polaris...
It took ya a while to to catch up to me, lol
tylerearl88 do yourself a favor and do the head shim and the cam timing, your going to have the thing half tore down already. I do not know of any other part that you can add (on anything) for under a 100 bucks that will give you a solid +50 hp, it...
A rear mount will be a lot easer to fab up than a front mount, no header to build (by far...... the hardest and trickiest part to fab up) and no gas tank to buy.
There is a lot to it, much more than meets the eye, and some things like material choices you will not find in the fourms.
I...
I have never seen one of Pauls headers up close but I bet it is Heavy. 3/16 is 0.187 wall. That is Fat and what ya want. A cast manifold is very thick as well. Why are you saying to use thin materal than? Are you sure it is 321? I wonder were he gets it from.
The SCH10 bend I listed is a...
Sorry Dude I will have to disagree with ya on that one.
The link I listed for the .109 wall 304 mandrel bend is there best selling bend for turbo kit builders, they sell a wack of it. A lot of builders are even going thicker. A 321 16 gauge header will not last under boost it just is not...
Not that I have built a lot of headers but I would keep away from 321 it is not worth the cost.
Use heavy materal!! .... SCH10 304
Like the link before, just fatter.
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/ma ... d-884.html
Found this on there website, looks cool but the specs for the turbos are weird.
For me turbos need balls in them
But what do I know................... I like 2-stokes
I think your right it sounds like a vacume leak on all cylinders, is the A/F lean when it is idled up. You can try spaying some WD40 around it to track the leak
Ya got some head work done to that monkey? I hope you remenber how to hang on to it.
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