suprfst
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Im curious where anyone has found a straight 0W oil? Couldnt find anything but multi viscosity oils.
Did find this though
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5rKxmC7MdM
11hp gain on a v8 engine in the 0w-20 Eneos oil.
Did find this though
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5rKxmC7MdM
11hp gain on a v8 engine in the 0w-20 Eneos oil.
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We run Joe Gibbs Racing straight 0 weight oil.
Daranello
Suspended
off topix, but in a lower reving motor like the nytro would switching from a 0w40 to at 0w30 gain anything???
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have been using redline 5-20 for years now. This year they added a 0-20 and a 0-30 with something like a -60 pour point. They also make drag oils too. They carry 2,5 and 10wt oils for these applications. Their lightweight gear oils work great in the chaincase too. These oils are synthetic ester based oils with lots of moly in them. Super high quality stuff...
Daranello
Suspended
so 0w20 or 0w30...whats best in a trail sled...and what make or brand......
Im guessing fully synthetic??
Im guessing fully synthetic??
CaptCaper
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I am guessing 0w20 is too light for the long term. If the engine gets working real hard and hot that oil may not lube it well. It may boil off or burn or whatever lighter oils do when used in an engine that was designed for 0w30.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
The lighter the oil the more it tends to VAPORIZE at higher RPM'S, in the case of APEX'S you'll end up with more oil in air box, so a little more consumption.
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have run the 5-20 redline for 3 years. Many hard runs and multimile WOT runs at over 100 mph on our 30mile lake. Never a problem and no oil burning to speak of. The 5-20 redline also turned over easily in the cold. Even better than the yamaha 0-30 my friends use. This year I will be using their new 0-20 which should be even better in the cold.
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I was thinking of using amsoil 0w20 this year in my apex but was afraid it was too light. I only have 380 miles on the sled so I changed it and put in dyno oil this time until I get a few more miles on the motor. prolly switch to amsoil full syn 0w20 or 0w30 around 800 miles...
Daranello
Suspended
ROCKERDAN
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this topic always brings up a bigger issue....ZINC CONTENT.
for the last several yrs,ZINC has been reduced in AUTOMOTIVE oils. The reason for this is due to the fact higher zinc levels can clog the catalytic converters.
if you research this,you will see that the higher weight oils contain more zinc,and the lower have less zinc,and when you get to a 0w-20 weight there is very very little zinc,and some brands have removed ALL zinc.
Zinc has been known to help wear,the thinking is that Zinc is not needed anymore at such levels due to newer ROLLER style cams,lifters ect in modern autos.......so older car enthusiasts with ;flat tappet" motors usually will run higher viscosity oils which contain higher levels of zinc.
so for the best protection in our motors,you want to stay away from a AUTO oil(synth or not).....the thicker oils(40 and up) are better for protection,this is why amsoil 0w-40 4 stroke powersports oil is most commonly acknowledged to be superior for protection,even yamalube since its now 40 weight will have alot more zinc content,and the fact these are NOT AUTO OILS makes the zinc content higher.However these good protection oils are thicker and will not yeild best HP or top speeds.
so...what do us guys do who want to run a thinner 20 weight oil??....we all know we can make more HP with thinner 20weight oils,the problem is,when you research them,these thinner oils have the LEAST amt of ZINC,which is not a good thing IMO!
my theory is to run my lighweight oil to get the HP i want....I have run REDLINE 5w-20 and loved it,and now will be running walmarts value jug of mobile 1 5w-20 for 22 bucks. I ran redline for 2 seasons before i knew about the whole zinc thing,mobile 1 thinner oils still have some but less then their 40 weights
to make me feel better about the low ZINC(mobile 1 has some but less then 40 weight) I decided to use an additive called ZDDP...its a zinc additive and i will add about half of what they claim is the right amt....due to fact there were so many different opinions on my research of too much zinc vs too little.
So in the end,do what you want with oils....i have OCD so i spent many many hours researching this topic,and came to my own conclusion. I doubt any of us will ever see any failure due to OIL viscosity or brand,just not gonna happen.
but when you hear how many race and performance guys saying a lighter weight oil CAN MAKE MORE HP on the DYNO,and make more SPEED ON RADAR,that is where my ears perk up.
For me this season,mobile 1 5w-20@ $22 bucks walmart...and ZDDP additive(2oz or half the bottle) for an additional 5 bucks,money doesnt matter to me here,but HP,speed AND protection does!
Dan
for the last several yrs,ZINC has been reduced in AUTOMOTIVE oils. The reason for this is due to the fact higher zinc levels can clog the catalytic converters.
if you research this,you will see that the higher weight oils contain more zinc,and the lower have less zinc,and when you get to a 0w-20 weight there is very very little zinc,and some brands have removed ALL zinc.
Zinc has been known to help wear,the thinking is that Zinc is not needed anymore at such levels due to newer ROLLER style cams,lifters ect in modern autos.......so older car enthusiasts with ;flat tappet" motors usually will run higher viscosity oils which contain higher levels of zinc.
so for the best protection in our motors,you want to stay away from a AUTO oil(synth or not).....the thicker oils(40 and up) are better for protection,this is why amsoil 0w-40 4 stroke powersports oil is most commonly acknowledged to be superior for protection,even yamalube since its now 40 weight will have alot more zinc content,and the fact these are NOT AUTO OILS makes the zinc content higher.However these good protection oils are thicker and will not yeild best HP or top speeds.
so...what do us guys do who want to run a thinner 20 weight oil??....we all know we can make more HP with thinner 20weight oils,the problem is,when you research them,these thinner oils have the LEAST amt of ZINC,which is not a good thing IMO!
my theory is to run my lighweight oil to get the HP i want....I have run REDLINE 5w-20 and loved it,and now will be running walmarts value jug of mobile 1 5w-20 for 22 bucks. I ran redline for 2 seasons before i knew about the whole zinc thing,mobile 1 thinner oils still have some but less then their 40 weights
to make me feel better about the low ZINC(mobile 1 has some but less then 40 weight) I decided to use an additive called ZDDP...its a zinc additive and i will add about half of what they claim is the right amt....due to fact there were so many different opinions on my research of too much zinc vs too little.
So in the end,do what you want with oils....i have OCD so i spent many many hours researching this topic,and came to my own conclusion. I doubt any of us will ever see any failure due to OIL viscosity or brand,just not gonna happen.
but when you hear how many race and performance guys saying a lighter weight oil CAN MAKE MORE HP on the DYNO,and make more SPEED ON RADAR,that is where my ears perk up.
For me this season,mobile 1 5w-20@ $22 bucks walmart...and ZDDP additive(2oz or half the bottle) for an additional 5 bucks,money doesnt matter to me here,but HP,speed AND protection does!
Dan
ROCKERDAN
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off topic but similar theory...
for the chaincase.....REDLINE shockproof lightweight gear oil....for same reasons,lighter weight & more top speed....good stuff!
Dan
for the chaincase.....REDLINE shockproof lightweight gear oil....for same reasons,lighter weight & more top speed....good stuff!
Dan
grizztracks
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I found this article from a few years ago. It compares motorcycle and automotive oils.
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
ROCKRTX
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
ROCKERDAN said:off topic but similar theory...
for the chaincase.....REDLINE shockproof lightweight gear oil....for same reasons,lighter weight & more top speed....good stuff!
Dan
What is the weight of that gear oil?
shanksyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I want to squeeze all the Hp out I can but I dont want to sacrafice my motors protection. The fact that Ulmer himself said 0w20 is ok makes me think it is... However if he has a motor failure he can pull down and rebuild a motor faster than I can make dinner for the family so I think a failure means alot more to me than it does to someone with that kind of knowledge and resources.. So to compromise.. Im gunna look for a good synthetic (amsoil if they have it) 0w30 and run that... thats between the 0w40 I was running but not quite as thin as the 0w20 some run... thats my conclusion...
