03 Rx-1 High Idle won't come down

[rxrider]

Stock setting is 2 turns out from lightly seated, do not remove the pilot screw, way to easy to drop one of them small parts like aVenture sais.

Do not adjust them back to whatevery they were at. Yamaha adjusted them all over the place to get a good (as low as possible) CO reading, making it look good in documentation sent to EPA etc.

 

[aVenture]

..or maybe 2.5 for ya rgextreme1998... since obviously this location has 'nt been cleaned up. To give you a hint, look at the tiny little hole in the carb body just where the trottle body close... that thing is the pilot exhaust. I am sure now that you agree that some carb cleaner flowing thru it is not a luxury... when you have idle trouble.

As for our quote of the day:

Do not adjust them back to whatevery they were at. Yamaha adjusted them all over the place

rxrider i can understand the foundation of your statement... but it's in the way you say it. Like if there were no reason at all that i go from 1.8 to 2.3
That is 33% difference and sure not comes from a random number generator.

 

[rxrider]

No they are not set at random. Yamaha have adjusted every single engine different to yeild the lowest CO emissions possible on every single sled, believe me they start them all and adjust.

Adjust them even, you'll get higher CO emissions but the sled will run better down low.

 

[rgextreme1998]

No they are not set at random. Yamaha have adjusted every single engine different to yeild the lowest CO emissions possible on every single sled, believe me they start them all and adjust.

Adjust them even, you'll get higher CO emissions but the sled will run better down low.

ok, yes they were all over the place. One was at 2 turns out, another one 1 3/4, one over 2. They are all at 2 now. So....I tried it again. Seems better. Cold it is fine. but after riding 10 mins or so high idle comes back. I am looking at carb synching next. Thanks again for all the thoughts.

 

[rgextreme1998]

..or maybe 2.5 for ya rgextreme1998... since obviously this location has 'nt been cleaned up. To give you a hint, look at the tiny little hole in the carb body just where the trottle body close... that thing is the pilot exhaust. I am sure now that you agree that some carb cleaner flowing thru it is not a luxury... when you have idle trouble.

As for our quote of the day:

Do not adjust them back to whatevery they were at. Yamaha adjusted them all over the place

rxrider i can understand the foundation of your statement... but it's in the way you say it. Like if there were no reason at all that i go from 1.8 to 2.3
That is 33% difference and sure not comes from a random number generator.

Ok, so remove the carbs and then take out the pilot screws, clean the pilot exhaust?

 

[rxrider]

If you take out the carbs to clean them, then completely disassemble the carbs, spray all openings with carb cleaner or electric contact cleaner, wait for a while 5-10 minutes and blow the carbs clean using compressed air. Before blowing thru the carbs with compressed air make sure alle small parts are removed from the carbs or else they will blow out, those small parts are not exactly easy to find in your shop or garage, been there done that

 

[rgextreme1998]

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!

Ok, so i went 2.5 turns out on the pilots. runs great now. I actually have engine braking now! idles sweet at 1500. I was ready to fly that thing back to tokyo. whoo hoooO! thanks for all your help guys. I am still debating on the carb synch tool. I know I should do that. But right now I'm going to LEAVE IT ALONE!!!

thanks again

 

[aVenture]

Good.....
..but your not done just yet, as you say the carb sync to fine tune.
You can build your own if your willing to spend the time. That is a water column differential type which measure difference between two... (more precise than absolute reading on mercury column) Can send you a pic if interested.

 

[rgextreme1998]

Good.....
..but your not done just yet, as you say the carb sync to fine tune.
You can build your own if your willing to spend the time. That is a water column differential type which measure difference between two... (more precise than absolute reading on mercury column) Can send you a pic if interested.

yes, please. thanks

 

[rxrider]

Do the syncronization as soon as possible, there's a lot to gain by running the carbs fully sync'ed

 

[aVenture]

From a surplus panel (4 to 5'), attatch a 1/4" tube that you fill partially with colored antifreeze. Use extra 6' to connect to carbs; that long is needed to damp the reeding.

 

[aVenture]

You must warm up the mill first, then adjust your idle RPM.
Connect one side to the carb where the trottle cable is tied to as a reference then to its closest friend, and outward. Of course never run without either a plug, or the guage connected. Adjust using the philips screw in between the carbs. Maybe a little blip on the trottle to settle the mechanics once you get close. Initial difference may reach 5 holes or more on my board (i think their 1" apart) If you take too much time, you may have to reconnect the fuel pump a little to re level the bowl. Once leveled, you can give a little bit of trottle... if you notice a temporary noticable unbalance then it is possible that you have a dirty slide that stick a little, a spring or a bellow not in place.

Another pic:

 

[rgextreme1998]

You must warm up the mill first, then adjust your idle RPM.
Connect one side to the carb where the trottle cable is tied to as a reference then to its closest friend, and outward. Of course never run without either a plug, or the guage connected. Adjust using the philips screw in between the carbs. Maybe a little blip on the trottle to settle the mechanics once you get close. Initial difference may reach 5 holes or more on my board (i think their 1" apart) If you take too much time, you may have to reconnect the fuel pump a little to re level the bowl. Once leveled, you can give a little bit of trottle... if you notice a temporary noticable unbalance then it is possible that you have a dirty slide that stick a little, a spring or a bellow not in place.

Another pic:

thanks - but don't I have to do all 4 at the same time?

I found this similar to yours:

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-h ... -tool.html

thanks

 

[RedRocket]

I use a simple mercury carb sync tool like the one pictured. It works on my motorcycles, snowmobiles, 4-wheelers, etc... This one tool has been used on at least 8 different engines, it's well worth the money.