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04 rx1 oil change

We had to weld an allen wrench on one to get it out. Now they all have hex head bolts on them. You need to get that off. I almost always get between 1/2 and 1 quart out of the pan.
 

Ratpack said:
We had to weld an allen wrench on one to get it out. Now they all have hex head bolts on them. You need to get that off. I almost always get between 1/2 and 1 quart out of the pan.

yeah if i get it out its nots going back in thats for sure.
 
nards444 said:
Cummins6.7pwr said:
nards444 said:
Then there is a screw on the bottom underides to drain the engine. I couldnt get that budge so just left it and changed the filter. Sled doesnt take 4 qts either more like three.
I am glad that my drain plug is not the only one that won't budge! I drain the tank and them put the sled on it's side with the tank side down and then drain it again. I figure that is the best I can do without trying to strip the plug out!

Yeah I was in the same boat and just left it. I figure with the filter and tank I got 90% of it out. I guess maybe next year Will try to throw some wd-40 at it. Problem with aluminum is once it gets stuck like that its over, almost worst then rust. Thinking maybe warming it with a torch might loosen the aluminum up, but then again a torch against in an engine bay could be dangerous. The next issue is that dang screw is an allen head instead of nut.

Any ideas from the peanut gallery would be helpful. But for now thats the way its going to be
I had the same issue with all 3 sleds, took a good sharp chisel and placed against bolt head on oil pan and with one hit with a hammer it knocked it loose. Saved the allen head that was trying to strip out. Each spring when I change the oil I just hit it in the same place and it loosens right up. Also use that technique on the side panel screws that want to strip out all the time. These heads striping out using good/quality Snap-On tools is a pain in the @$$ unless you loosen with chisel method. Oh BTW my hand impact driver also works on side cover screws, however after a few times it messes up the heads even using a #3 phillips bit from Snap-On.
:4STroke: :yam: :rocks:
 
Any good tool company has a bit that will fit an air hammer. The bit has either 3/8 or 1/2 drive for the socket to go on. Then there is a place to turn it with a 3/4 wrench @ the same time. Yes it will take 2 people & some finger control on the air hammer. But it will come out. I have been in the trade for 18yrs. This was a great idea who ever came up with this air hammer bit with a drive to put a socket on. It wont take much rattling to get it to break loose. DONT air hammer till you inside the engine.
 
dmaxx said:
It is not as simple as that. Plan for at least a couple hours to change oil and filter. To replace filter, you must remove airbox, battery and tray and this is no simple task. Remove bottom plate cover to access drain plug on engine. Remove side cover on magneto side; Remove drain from bottom of tank. Add small amount of oil to engine via the top cap. Add remainder to the tank 2.0. liters. Check oil level. Add as necessary. Total capacity is 3.6 liter, 4 US quarts. Enjoy.

You do not need to add any oil to the engine. Only on a engine rebuild!
 
Sasquatch said:
dmaxx said:
It is not as simple as that. Plan for at least a couple hours to change oil and filter. To replace filter, you must remove airbox, battery and tray and this is no simple task. Remove bottom plate cover to access drain plug on engine. Remove side cover on magneto side; Remove drain from bottom of tank. Add small amount of oil to engine via the top cap. Add remainder to the tank 2.0. liters. Check oil level. Add as necessary. Total capacity is 3.6 liter, 4 US quarts. Enjoy.

You do not need to add any oil to the engine. Only on a engine rebuild!
Do add oil to the engine, it takes to long to pump oil from the tank.
 
Mighty said:
Sasquatch said:
dmaxx said:
It is not as simple as that. Plan for at least a couple hours to change oil and filter. To replace filter, you must remove airbox, battery and tray and this is no simple task. Remove bottom plate cover to access drain plug on engine. Remove side cover on magneto side; Remove drain from bottom of tank. Add small amount of oil to engine via the top cap. Add remainder to the tank 2.0. liters. Check oil level. Add as necessary. Total capacity is 3.6 liter, 4 US quarts. Enjoy.

You do not need to add any oil to the engine. Only on a engine rebuild!
Do add oil to the engine, it takes to long to pump oil from the tank.

LOL! Any oil added to the engine is only pumped to the tank! It is not pumped to the motor! Tank feeds the oil pump, motor feeds the tank. Hence the name (dry sump)! Adding oil to the engine will not hasten the oil from the tank to the motor any quicker.

So adding oil to the motor is pointless as it is pumped from there to the tank where you could have put it in the first place. Can't figure out why people insist in putting oil in the engine after an oil change?
 
I do all my own maintenance but was talking to my dealer about this when I got my first RX-1. His mechanic claimed that air can get into the system if oil isn't added to the crank case. I don't know enough about how a dry sump system works but do notice that when I pull the drain plug on the engine I get a good 1/2 quart of oil out. I have probably changed oil 10 times on various Yamaha 4 strokes and have noticed the same thing on all. Quick question; Why is there a fill plug on the valve cover then??
 
did my oilchange on my 04 warrior 2 hrs took screen out of bottom of oil tank first time [recomended here!this forum ] some stuff on screen 7000 mi.rest of oilchange went well but very time consuming kept sled oil spill free till I took off filter and of course oil spills under engine and out of every crack and crevice onto garage floor par for course I guess
 

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Just some I'm clear.. I'm new to the site, just got my first rx1. I changed my oil last night. Emptied the tank and the engine block. Is it ok that I added all 3 quarts through the engine and not the tank.
 
Sasquatch said:
Mighty said:
Sasquatch said:
dmaxx said:
It is not as simple as that. Plan for at least a couple hours to change oil and filter. To replace filter, you must remove airbox, battery and tray and this is no simple task. Remove bottom plate cover to access drain plug on engine. Remove side cover on magneto side; Remove drain from bottom of tank. Add small amount of oil to engine via the top cap. Add remainder to the tank 2.0. liters. Check oil level. Add as necessary. Total capacity is 3.6 liter, 4 US quarts. Enjoy.

You do not need to add any oil to the engine. Only on a engine rebuild!
Do add oil to the engine, it takes to long to pump oil from the tank.

LOL! Any oil added to the engine is only pumped to the tank! It is not pumped to the motor! Tank feeds the oil pump, motor feeds the tank. Hence the name (dry sump)! Adding oil to the engine will not hasten the oil from the tank to the motor any quicker.

So adding oil to the motor is pointless as it is pumped from there to the tank where you could have put it in the first place. Can't figure out why people insist in putting oil in the engine after an oil change?
 
With that said.. I understand it being pointless but as stated" it's getting pumped back into the tank anyway" will it hurt anything? Will there be any problems resulting from my mistake?
Thanks
 
searsnathan said:
With that said.. I understand it being pointless but as stated" it's getting pumped back into the tank anyway" will it hurt anything? Will there be any problems resulting from my mistake?
Thanks

No it will not hurt anything to put a little oil in the motor! Putting all the oil in the motor and none in the tank means that there is a possibility that the oil pump ran dry because there was no oil in the tank to feed it.

Is there any problems that will result? Who knows but that is why I always tell people to put the oil in the tank. That way there is no confusion.
 


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