05 Rage, clutch noise or crank??

jbwi102

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05 rage
Just picked up a 05 rage for $1000. Owner claimed it had a engine knock, took it home started right up.
Is this noise crank or clutch? Its definitely coming from left side of engine

sled in mint and has 2800mi on it

 
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Knock, knock. Who's there? Rod. Rod who? Rod Bearing.

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Something don't sound right......Grizz or Travis...what do you think?
 
Owner said it sat for 2 years, and the gas smells like it did. I have no problem cleaning the carbs, but at this point if crank is shot ill part it out.
I could not feel ANY up and down or side to side play from the crank (clutch side)
 
Owner said it sat for 2 years, and the gas smells like it did. I have no problem cleaning the carbs, but at this point if crank is shot ill part it out.
I could not feel ANY up and down or side to side play from the crank (clutch side)

I'm not an engine guy but I don't think a bad crank/rod bearing will show up as up/down/side/side play in the clutch.
 
The clutch noise mostly goes away at higher rpms under load. If the engine is running rough or the carbs are out of sync it tends to be louder than normal at idle. Pull the clutch and then listen. A rod noise is more evident at steady rpms, a crank noise will be louder under load or acceleration and a piston pin has a more metallic double knock usually at idle.
 
I fired it up this morning to have another listen and noticed when I first started it with the choke on it did not clatter, as soon as i turned the choke off the noise came back. I am going to clean and sync the carbs and go from there
Thanks for the help
 
Good news, carb clean and sync cleared up almost all the noise. All three pilots had gunk in them. Now just has small noise from clutch but does not sound like the motor is going to gernade!
Need some slides and I should be ready for winter. Now to call a couple dealers and see if anyone will replace the cam tensioner free, slim chance but worth a try...
 
one more question, can anyone tell me if this track and hand warmers are stock or aftermarket?
The warmers barely heat at idle, hopefully that will change when I get the motor singing.


I forgot to add I got some chemtool carb cleaner on the windshield by accident while cleaning main jets, big no no I need to order a new one :o|
 

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Bone stock.

The grips will be OK once cranked on full blast, but they aren't the best.

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Track looks like stock Ripsaw, handwarmers are stock. Need to be over 3500 rpm or so for handwarmers to start to heat up. Yamaheaters can be purchasedd for extra handwarmer heat if necessary.
 
So I decided to replace the cam tensioner myself. Everything went ok until I got to the rear engine spacer and now I am afraid the sled is a basket case. The engine spacer turned clockwise about 1/2 turn and then stopped. I broke 2 diy special sockets, on the third socket it moved another 1/2 turn and then stripped out, please tell me there is some hope here, is it completely ducked?

Maybe cut it in half but then how to get it out of the chassis?
 

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I mis-understood the write up Grizz, I thought you meant the spacer was reverse thread, you said to remove it turn it clockwise, which is true. But first you need to turn is CCW to loosen, tilt motor, then CW to remove.
Hey :) Im not complaining here, without your helpful write up I would have parted the sled out!

So anyways I finally got the tensioner out, happy to report it has the orange dot.
 

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It's difficult and time consuming to explain everything in detail. Some things are left to experience and common sense. It's great that you tackled this projected and worked through those details. Replacing the tensioner is a more advanced process that requires at least average mechanical abilities. This is an expensive sport so anytime a person can save a few dollars working on their own sled rather than pay steep labor rates is a plus.
 


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