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06 Attak Throttle Blade Adjustment

seabeeman

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Sep 28, 2018
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61
Age
41
Location
Spooner, WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
08 Apex LTX GT 40th
How do you set the throttle blade stop screw on the linkage between the throttle bodies? Details to follow:

I've got an ongoing thread about my rough idling 06 Attak and that I'm trying to smooth out, but I suspect that I screwed things up when I adjusted the stop screw between throttle body 2 & 3...the allen set screw with an 8mm locknut on it that acts against the throttle cable cam. I know I shouldn't have touched it but I can't find this thing mentioned anywhere in the manual.

Seeing as the sled gets its air through the IAC at idle, am I correct in thinking that the blades/butterflies should be shut completely and that this screw acts as a stop to keep them from slamming into the housings and getting banged up?

Is there any spec to set this, or air gap to be set with a feeler? Or should the screw be backed out completely, then just bumped into the arm, or something to that effect.

Once this is back to where it should be, I'll feel a whole lot more confident going after a potentially sticking idle knob, bad plugs (they're getting replaced anyways), C0 settings, etc.
 

I would back it all the way out, 'flip' the throttle a few times letting it slam shut, when you open it just after they slam it should stick slightly, adjust that screw so that when they slam shut there is no sticking of the TBs blades in the barrels of the TBs.

Make sense? Correct they should not be open at ALL, the IAC gives it all the air it needs behind the TB blades.
 
That makes perfect sense. Just enough contact so the screw is the stop, not the edges of the blades on the housing.
 
The throttle plates don't close all the way, there is a designed gap to allow some air through. The IAC does not provide 100% of the idle air, it is to allow high idle when cold and then progressively close off as the coolant temp rises. it's wax filled like a thermostat...
I think you could pull up the TPS in diagnostic mode maybe and adjust that stop screw it until you get 0-1%? Low enough not to throw a code or TORS but high enough to still keeping your idle RPM high enough. Balancing act
 
That's what I ended up doing, used the diagnostic on the first value to set it to 15-18, which was the closed spec listed in the manual. Ended up at the high end of 18 but anything higher led to the rpm's running up or never coming down off throttle.
 


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