To get started the motor in my Phazer MTX is completely stock. Alot of times people want to start with motor mods for more HP to improve performance. This alot of times will mask defficiencies in the drive line area. I beleive in first working with getting the performance out of the clutching, gearing, track preferance and dealing with any friction areas first. This gives you a real starting point on how you want the sled to perform in the conditions you ride. When you are working with a sled that is shy on HP and you want a little more out of it. I have found huge gains in they above mentioned areas and found great performance effeciency. Now a brief explanation on the importance of clean cold dense air verses warm air introduced into the air box. This information is from Swain Tech's website: "A 10Â°F reduction in intake air temperature provides a 1% increase in horsepower. A 30Â°F reduction equates to a 3% horsepower increase." The temprature reduction in increase of horsepower is also confirmed in dyno testings results. On the Phazer the air flow into the air box comes from the bottom of the air box. This is right close to the base of the motor for some fairly warm air drawn into the motor. Case and point of a dyno test done on a Phazer at 70 degrees and the inside of the air box temprature was 88 degrees. The stock motor setup still put out 81.2 HP at 11,200 rpms. With 4 Bullseyes installed in the air box cover and 80 mph forced fan air it registered 83 HP at 11,100 rpms with 78 degree air box temprature. With the air box cover off it registered 85.3 at 11,100 rpms. So you can see that air temprature does affect HP but only a dyno test can prove it. You can subscribe and see all the numbers at the attatched website. DynoTech Research http://www.dynotechresearch.com/techarticles.asp# Now to the air box mod: the foam filter and screen are removed and the 3 slots that hold the screen in place are sealed. Next the oil tank vent hose and valve cover vent hose are tied together into a K&N Filter outside the air box and those 2 openings are sealed. Next the bottom of the air box intake is completely sealed from warm drawn air off motor. I used a two part epoxy to seal all inlets into the air box. Now the air intake will come through the air box cover with FROGZskin vents installed under the cosmetic cover. This will keep direct debris from clogging filter screens and introduce pure clean cold air. Also in this mod I have added an Aaen pipe and have had the whole exhaust system SwainTech White Lightning Coated. The reason for the coating is to keep the outside of the pipe at the coolest possible temprature. While the inside of the pipe keeps the hottest most consistant temprature for better combustion system burn. There will deffinetley be some fuel adjustments that will be needed and I will do that through the ECU for now. When the fuel is adjusted through the ECU it adjust it from idle up through wide open throttle equally. Unlike a Power Commander or other fuel modules you can map the curve for certain rpms. How often do you run from engagment to 7000 rpms on these things not much. Most of the fuel curve modules start at about 8000 rpms and up to richen fuel for a few more ponies on top. I ran a test in the garage and the plug is burning perfect light brown. But with cooler tempratures come leaner burn so I will start at 3 with the ECU adjustment for now. Let the testing begin and the results will be posted.