rkkoeb
Expert
Hello
I picked up a 09 Apex last year and have done a ton of upgrades to the sled last year. I worked on the front suspension and now want to setup the rear. Some history about the sled is as follows plus I am running a Seat concept/WRP seat so I sit higher up on the sled
Front Suspension
* Front shocks replaced with a set of Yamaha GYTR shocks
* Front and rear shocks rebuilt last year by Steve and Shock Doc (Only have 4 rides on them)
* Upgrade 13MM sway bar added last year
* Snow tracker skags
* A-arms are set level to floor
Rear Suspension
* Suspension removed last year, cleaned and powder coated
* All new bearings
* Studded track
* New Slides
* 4th wheel kit added
* Current shock rebuilt
How do I go about setting up the rear skid? I run about 230 pounds dressed to ride. I was told that I should look at upgrading the rear spring to a Multi rate big boy spring. I am still getting ski lift in the corners right now. I am looking for recommendation on how to setup the rear shock with or without the new big boy spring and how to set the limiter strap up.
Thanks Rick
I picked up a 09 Apex last year and have done a ton of upgrades to the sled last year. I worked on the front suspension and now want to setup the rear. Some history about the sled is as follows plus I am running a Seat concept/WRP seat so I sit higher up on the sled
Front Suspension
* Front shocks replaced with a set of Yamaha GYTR shocks
* Front and rear shocks rebuilt last year by Steve and Shock Doc (Only have 4 rides on them)
* Upgrade 13MM sway bar added last year
* Snow tracker skags
* A-arms are set level to floor
Rear Suspension
* Suspension removed last year, cleaned and powder coated
* All new bearings
* Studded track
* New Slides
* 4th wheel kit added
* Current shock rebuilt
How do I go about setting up the rear skid? I run about 230 pounds dressed to ride. I was told that I should look at upgrading the rear spring to a Multi rate big boy spring. I am still getting ski lift in the corners right now. I am looking for recommendation on how to setup the rear shock with or without the new big boy spring and how to set the limiter strap up.
Thanks Rick
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2011 apex xtx
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in the snowmobile tec section on the main page
is where these charts where posted.
never owned a sled with a mono in it, so i cannot point you in the right way. closest i have is the single shot and it is not the same.
is where these charts where posted.
never owned a sled with a mono in it, so i cannot point you in the right way. closest i have is the single shot and it is not the same.
stevewithOCD
Yamaha, Make me Come Back
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2006 Apex RTX
You have a good set up that is very similar to mine/cousins, the only difference mine had a dual rate HYGEAR set up.
I have over 24,000 miles on that sled and it took me 15,000 of them to get it right. But it's GREAT now.
The WRP seat will make a HUGE difference in the bumps although you'll have a bit more body roll.
The 13mm sway bar will help with that.
Make sure the skis are parallel with SnoTrackers................VERY important!
The GYTR shocks are simple.
Start with both the adjusters top/compression and the bottom/rebound about in the middle "click" range.
The compression will depend on how you ride so leave it in middle until you ride.
If it's stiff........loosen CCW
If it bottoms.......tighten CW
Rebound requires pushing on front of sled.
It should bounce back, but not "snap" back.
This will take some playing & watch some motorcycle track racing videos on YOUTUBE to get an idea on what to look for.
Again, if it comes up real slow, the shocks won't be "ready" for the next bump.
If they are too fast, it will bounce you off sled.
You will do the same for the rear rebound using the knob on the shaft of the shock. Again the motorcycle videos are more abundant & more useful than the sled vids i've watched.
FIRST the compression/sag/ride height must be set.
HYGEAR says to lift sled and measure shock length.
Then put the ACTUAL rider on sled & remeasure. Should be about 45mm difference adjusting the spring.
I believe the original way on stock shock is to pick sled up & let down slowly. Then measure a set point on skid to ground.
Put rider on sled & see how far rear skid goes down. About 2'' i believe was the number.
If you have to tighten the BEJESUS out of the shock, then you may need a bigger spring.
Put the front straps in the stock hole.
I lengthened them 1 hole since i only weigh 165lbs & i like the front skis to lift.
Do NOT run too much ski pressure with SnoTrackers!
The adjusting rod put on the stock line until after suspension is set up in "NORMAL" conditions.
When the suspension is close then adjust rod to pick front end up as YOU like it. Or not at all.
As snow conditions change, only a couple clicks will be needed on rebound in the front and maybe a notch or 2 on the rear compression adjuster whether it's electronic or manual.
KEY NOTES:
-if a lot of extra weight is carried, such as fuel or bags, add that when the ride height is set up
-i usually have half tank of gas for set up
-the WRP seat is actually 4'' higher than stock since the stock seat will sink down 2''
-set up on "normal" trail & conditions
-REAL EXPECTATIONS: this is a very capable groomed trail sled so don't try to make it a ditchbanger
-i can't give "click" numbers since we have different springs
-since you paralleled the arms, you may need a bit more compression, but the 13mm will also stiffen so leave in middle until ride
-the rebound settings usually go in the opposite direction you would think
P.S: PM me anytime if you want to "chat"
P.2: NICE JOB so far!
I have over 24,000 miles on that sled and it took me 15,000 of them to get it right. But it's GREAT now.
The WRP seat will make a HUGE difference in the bumps although you'll have a bit more body roll.
The 13mm sway bar will help with that.
Make sure the skis are parallel with SnoTrackers................VERY important!
The GYTR shocks are simple.
Start with both the adjusters top/compression and the bottom/rebound about in the middle "click" range.
The compression will depend on how you ride so leave it in middle until you ride.
If it's stiff........loosen CCW
If it bottoms.......tighten CW
Rebound requires pushing on front of sled.
It should bounce back, but not "snap" back.
This will take some playing & watch some motorcycle track racing videos on YOUTUBE to get an idea on what to look for.
Again, if it comes up real slow, the shocks won't be "ready" for the next bump.
If they are too fast, it will bounce you off sled.
You will do the same for the rear rebound using the knob on the shaft of the shock. Again the motorcycle videos are more abundant & more useful than the sled vids i've watched.
FIRST the compression/sag/ride height must be set.
HYGEAR says to lift sled and measure shock length.
Then put the ACTUAL rider on sled & remeasure. Should be about 45mm difference adjusting the spring.
I believe the original way on stock shock is to pick sled up & let down slowly. Then measure a set point on skid to ground.
Put rider on sled & see how far rear skid goes down. About 2'' i believe was the number.
If you have to tighten the BEJESUS out of the shock, then you may need a bigger spring.
Put the front straps in the stock hole.
I lengthened them 1 hole since i only weigh 165lbs & i like the front skis to lift.
Do NOT run too much ski pressure with SnoTrackers!
The adjusting rod put on the stock line until after suspension is set up in "NORMAL" conditions.
When the suspension is close then adjust rod to pick front end up as YOU like it. Or not at all.
As snow conditions change, only a couple clicks will be needed on rebound in the front and maybe a notch or 2 on the rear compression adjuster whether it's electronic or manual.
KEY NOTES:
-if a lot of extra weight is carried, such as fuel or bags, add that when the ride height is set up
-i usually have half tank of gas for set up
-the WRP seat is actually 4'' higher than stock since the stock seat will sink down 2''
-set up on "normal" trail & conditions
-REAL EXPECTATIONS: this is a very capable groomed trail sled so don't try to make it a ditchbanger
-i can't give "click" numbers since we have different springs
-since you paralleled the arms, you may need a bit more compression, but the 13mm will also stiffen so leave in middle until ride
-the rebound settings usually go in the opposite direction you would think
P.S: PM me anytime if you want to "chat"
P.2: NICE JOB so far!
Last edited:
Here
ty4stroke.com
This is Steve.
Apex Mono Shock Set-Up Procedure.
Standard Apex Mono Shock Set-Up Procedure. Mega Float Apex Mono Shock Set-Up Procedure.
rkkoeb
Expert
This is great info. Does anyone have the how to setup the transfer rode?
RobX-1
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If no wrench.
DGZRT
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If you Google 2009 vector Ltd setup . You will find some good info . I can tell you if you can afford some dual rate springs from Hygear they do make a big difference. I have them on both of my Vectors with the mono . Basically same sled . If you Google Shock therapy suspension setup . He has some awesome videos explaining how shocks with compression and rebound works . A lot of it is for UTV but shocks work the same . Very good info .
rkkoeb
Expert
Ok probably going with the multi rate big boy spring. Now the shock was rebuilt last year and knowing that and the spring i want to use should I have it revolved. If so who should I send it to
RobX-1
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You might be ok with it being refreshed/revalved last year but after talking with Steve @cannondale27 you’d be surprised how quickly that oil can deteriorate. Can’t heap enough praise on the service he has done for me which reminds me I have shocks from 08 Apex I need to send him. Always like to do it around this time of year when he’s not soo busy.
rkkoeb
Expert
Spring I am looking at
Steve no longer does revalving only rebuilds which he did all three of my shocks last year
What should I expect to pay to revalve one shock?
Steve no longer does revalving only rebuilds which he did all three of my shocks last year
What should I expect to pay to revalve one shock?
RobX-1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
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- 2,222
- Location
- Coldwater, OH
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 50th Apex XT-X, 08 40th Apex LTX GT, 08 40th Nytro RTX, & 03 RX-1
Hygear revalved the front Ohlins and rear EC Ohlins shocks on my 08 Apex back in 2017 and I want to say it the rebuild cost around $75 but unfortunately that was before I realized how neglecting shock maintenance can cause your bill to increase due to worn out parts which was the case in both the front and rear shocks so my overall bill was much higher than that.
I admit to doing two or more things at once but when possible one thing at a time is always better. Rick now that your shocks are serviced ride it. Adjust it. Then try the spring and if still looking for more get a revalve. The refresh and the adjustments provided here are going to make a big difference that many never take the time to do. It might just be enough to do the trick
