• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

09 handwarmer resistance

Toward the bottom of page 8 of this epic I posted a few pages from the service manual that include the wiring diagram.

However, before you can "try something" you'll need to submit your plans to our review committee and wait for approval to be granted. Currently early season approvals are being fast-tracked so you can expect to hear from the committee within 21-days of your formal submission.
 

arteeex said:
Toward the bottom of page 8 of this epic I posted a few pages from the service manual that include the wiring diagram.

However, before you can "try something" you'll need to submit your plans to our review committee and wait for approval to be granted. Currently early season approvals are being fast-tracked so you can expect to hear from the committee within 21-days of your formal submission.
Click to expand...

:jump:
LOL...You seem like a guy I would get along with real well.
 
arteeex said:
Toward the bottom of page 8 of this epic I posted a few pages from the service manual that include the wiring diagram.

However, before you can "try something" you'll need to submit your plans to our review committee and wait for approval to be granted. Currently early season approvals are being fast-tracked so you can expect to hear from the committee within 21-days of your formal submission.
Click to expand...
Thanks
I will send my papers along with the non disclosure documents in triplicate of course for your inspection and acceptance and if all goes as planned we should be cooking hot dogs on the handwarmers in no time...LOL
 
Not trying to scare anyone here but I would be very careful about using a CAP. I thought about this oh about ten pages back.
I have seen CAPs in many different sizes from small electronic circuit types right up to large industrial type short out internally and show no resistance between positive and negative terminals. This would effectively cause a direct short between your positive and negative output of your ECU. Not sure if it would like that. The capacitance material inside basically melts and makes a clear path for current to flow from one lead to the other. If using a CAP I would think it would be better to use a diode in series with it to block the voltage in one way to prevent a direct contact between positive and negative from the ECU when the capacitor fails.
Just be careful on the type you use as some are resistive and may defeat your purpose and others flow after a determined amperage.
 
arteeex said:
Toward the bottom of page 8 of this epic I posted a few pages from the service manual that include the wiring diagram.

However, before you can "try something" you'll need to submit your plans to our review committee and wait for approval to be granted. Currently early season approvals are being fast-tracked so you can expect to hear from the committee within 21-days of your formal submission.
Click to expand...

;)!

Some of us have been using PM's to discuss this.
 
It's worth mentioning that if you wire a capacitor in parallel with the hand grips, the ECU experiences the equivalent of a dead short when the capacitor is first charged. The surge is very short lived so it may not blow the fuse but the unknown is will it effect the ECU over time. Also, if the end effect is hotter hand warmers, that energy has to come from somewhere. If we assume the had warmers get 50% more energy then the ECU output pulse amperage must be 50% higher (on average). The reason for this is during the initial portion of the pulse, the ECU is charging the cap as well as supplying power to the hand warmers. At the end of the pulse, the capacitor discharges the stored energy through the had warmers. In other words, if the pulse duration stays the same, it must supply 50% more energy. Again, the unknown is will this effect the ECU over time.

Brad
 
would this possibly work on the Nytro? I found it in another post. I like the idea!

What I did on my sled was run two sets of warmers. I took the 06 bars, removed the hooks and knocked out the threaded inserts inside the bars then installed heaters inside the bars. Welded the threaded insert back in, put the hook back on and had smokin hot hands anytime I wanted to. Turn both sets on high and I could dry wet gloves :)
 
Yes, this can work on most sleds.
He wired the extra warmers through a switch to 12v off the battery.

You could do pretty much the same without all the work adding the heaters in the bars.
Wire a DPDT switch to change from the ECU control to straight 12v off your key switch.
The switch would also switch in a dummy load for the ECU to prevent error codes showing up.
When you want full power, switch to 12v, when you want control at the bars, switch to ECU control.

Will need to do a schematic for this...
 
rockmeister said:
The switch would also switch in a dummy load for the ECU to prevent error codes showing up.
Click to expand...

Any idea what the minimum dummy load resistor size would be? No sense in loading the electrical system any more than necessary

Brad
 
Why not keep it simple and use Warm Wrap Grips. Attach it directly to the battery. It's fused and has an on/ off switch. $45.00 and problem solved. No screwing around with OEM wiring and potential ECU problems.

http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Aer ... 16731.html

103_1a.jpg


d_3026.jpg
 
Like the idea of the add on grips, wonder how long they will last.
They may be like the heated gloves, a great idea that isn't very tough.

I would bet the dummy load can be about 100 ohms / 2+ watt, the ECU just looks to make sure it isn't an open, not really if the warmers are right or not. Maybe even more.

Will test this when I get my sled back together, the hood is all apart right now for painting.
 
Rockmiester, I see your tagline says you have an 05 Warrior. I had an 04 and all I did was wire my grips in Parallel. I kept it hooked through the ECU and only had to run 1 or 2 bars on my display and I had toasty hands. If It got below -25 turn em up half way and they were like curling irons! I never had an ECU issue and was the best mod I ever did. I wish it were that simple of a fix on my XTX but I am told they are already wired in Parallel thats why i'm looking for options. I rode it around the field today for the first time and they actually heated up ok but it was 30 degress out, Not sure if they will be warm enough at 50mph at zero degrees. I suggest you try wiring your grips in parallel if you haven't already. I guess the only issue I heard is if you turn them on high it will blow the fuse. Believe me you will never have to turn them that high.
 
Actually, I have the '06 Updated Apex bars.
They do ok with the cap mod, am more trying to help others with the info.
I appreciate it anyway, and I'm sure someone can use the information. :)
 
Hate to ask if someone already mentioned it but...

If I put the rsi heaters on and leave the stock stuff alone could I use a
relay and wire it to power the second set so I don't leave them on accidentally???

Where and what kind of relay would I need?

Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top