vice108
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
87gtNOS said:Yes, it works.
..........
Can you provide any details of what you noticed, RPM changes, etc....
Thanks
Bill
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
machzed,Go to the homepage on this site and click on tech pages.Then go to clutching and jetting and you will find what you are looking for.The only thing I did different was to use a rubber o ring to lock down the secondary when most of the play was out of it.This was a trick Mike Knapp posted a while ago.
SledFreak
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Got a link, because I can't find it.
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
Sledfreak it is the first page you come to when you log on to this site.The tech pages icon is on the left side along with all the other forums in that long narrow column..Hope this helps.As for Knapps post you will have to do a search.
ROCKERDAN
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87gtNOS said:dan, I am still not convinced that 2 teeth is accurate. I believe 2 teeth is rather low. We found 2 teeth on an RX1 read about 4mph low.
when run at top speeds, we noticed the 2 teeth ground off was 1.5mph LOWER then RADAR gun,the gun was tested to be within .1MPH. If you are grindin off 1 tooth only you are still approx 7mph HIGHER then radar...
this is why we ground off 2 teeth..as ALL im concerned with is TOP speed...not anywhere less.....which will be closer as speeds drop.
when i say top speed ,we tested this theory at approx 110 actual which was showing 125(15 high on dream) then ground 2 teeth to see 108-109 on digi speedo while actual was 110....this is why we decided 2 teeth was FAR BETTER then 1 tooth...IMO if your doing 1 tooth why do any at all?..at least with NO grinding you KNOW its 15 high at top speed..while 1 tooth leaves you wondering.
Dan
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fourload said:machzed,Go to the homepage on this site and click on tech pages.Then go to clutching and jetting and you will find what you are looking for.The only thing I did different was to use a rubber o ring to lock down the secondary when most of the play was out of it.This was a trick Mike Knapp posted a while ago.
ok,i found the spec pages...all it had was rx1 but i beleive offset would be same for apex...it said 15mm....now,what i was asking before was exactly how is this measured?...is it same as i used to measure my machs?...using a straight bar,measuring off fixed sheave of secondary to backside of primary??>..is this where the 15mm should be measured?....
the more i think about it,that cant be right as my machs were about 28mm if i recall...so where does this 15mm measure from?...
thanks
dan
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yes the rx1 is the same.Yes you measure it from the back side of the primary to the backside of the secondary with the belt off.Yes it is 15mm.After you get the correct offset by adding or subtracting washers you can get a rubber o ring that will fit snugly on the removeable silver aluminum shaft that the bolt goes through and lock it down that way.This way you don't need to get to many diff thickness washers to get that perfect fit. I also think it will put less stress on the jackshaft bearing because of the o rings cushioning effect.machzed said:fourload said:machzed,Go to the homepage on this site and click on tech pages.Then go to clutching and jetting and you will find what you are looking for.The only thing I did different was to use a rubber o ring to lock down the secondary when most of the play was out of it.This was a trick Mike Knapp posted a while ago.
ok,i found the spec pages...all it had was rx1 but i beleive offset would be same for apex...it said 15mm....now,what i was asking before was exactly how is this measured?...is it same as i used to measure my machs?...using a straight bar,measuring off fixed sheave of secondary to backside of primary??>..is this where the 15mm should be measured?....
the more i think about it,that cant be right as my machs were about 28mm if i recall...so where does this 15mm measure from?...
thanks
dan
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ok thanks...so this is measured differently then a DOO....this is measure from rear of primary to moveable back sheave of secondary,on backside of that moveable sheave...i find that a bizarre way of measuring since its moveable......but i guess i gotta get used to yammies way of doing things....LOL.
so 15mm from back of primary to back of secondary,lock it on there with a rubber oring on hollow steel tube which should reduce the SIDE PRESSURE on jackshaft bearing....sounds good.
also,does anyone know when maxxperf will have windage plates back instock?..anyone try making there own?..
thanks again
dan
so 15mm from back of primary to back of secondary,lock it on there with a rubber oring on hollow steel tube which should reduce the SIDE PRESSURE on jackshaft bearing....sounds good.
also,does anyone know when maxxperf will have windage plates back instock?..anyone try making there own?..
thanks again
dan
vice108
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machzed said:does anyone know when maxxperf will have windage plates back instock?
Was wondering the same thing.
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Where exactly do you place the rubber o-ring...between the aluminum collar and metal washers? Is it just a regular old o-ring I get in the hardware store that snugs onto the shaft?
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yes just a reg o ring. It goes between the clutch and the washers and sits around the alum collar like the washers do when it is tight. .Just get an o ring with about the same inside diameter as the washers ,this way you can slip it right on the collar..Some are thicker than others.Just select one that is a little thicker than the gap you need to fill.This way it will compress nice and tight.MyOutdoors said:Where exactly do you place the rubber o-ring...between the aluminum collar and metal washers? Is it just a regular old o-ring I get in the hardware store that snugs onto the shaft?
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was just wondering how many shims i will need to purchase from dealer...can you tell me how many you needed additionally to the stock amount already on it?.
or...does somewhere like home depot have something that will work for shims?...as im sure they will be alot cheaper there.
dan
or...does somewhere like home depot have something that will work for shims?...as im sure they will be alot cheaper there.
dan
fourload
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Dealer will have them in diff thicknesses.Don't know about home depot, you could probably find some.I was lucky because I didn't need any.It was dead on.All I did was lock it down with the o ring.Check yours first.......machzed said:was just wondering how many shims i will need to purchase from dealer...can you tell me how many you needed additionally to the stock amount already on it?.
or...does somewhere like home depot have something that will work for shims?...as im sure they will be alot cheaper there.
dan
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I just checked my offset & if i am measuring correctly i'm way off, i'm reading 18 mm is it possible to be that far off from the dealer. I took a straight edge and placed it against (accross) the inside of the primary clutch & the inside of the secondary was 18 mm away, meaning i have to shim it in towards the motor 3 mm ?
ROCKERDAN
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hmmm.....i know on my stock setup,my secondary floats quite abit,so i will need several shims to get the float out of it....
not unless you are using a major thick o ring for the space??..
Ill try depot first since they have the o rings,and see if they have something to shim with..
Dan
not unless you are using a major thick o ring for the space??..
Ill try depot first since they have the o rings,and see if they have something to shim with..
Dan
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