14.5 mm reviews (clutch gurus)

[yammitrip1]

Just got to put a few miles on the sled, my setup consists of airbox mod and d&d muffler.

clutch set up, opo spring, 14.5 mm rollers 50-38 helix, red ulmer spring.

right now im pulling 8850 with clutch arms from heel to tip 0-1-2-2. pretty snap, bottom end grabs belt good. Im no clutch expert but it goes really good, with fluffy inconsistent trails i seen 89mph.

my primary was a little warmer then id like it to be, i may try a little bit more helix 49-43 ? engagement is 3150

I like it.....let it snow

 

[Studroes144]

Sounds pretty darn good, what belt u running with that?

 

[yammitrip1]

8dn, thinking try the stock secondary spring, along with the 49-43 helix.

Trying to go a different route with this sled vs my past sleds/thoughts, trying to get the sled to roll as best as i can and optimize simple mods and clutching. I added a bunch of wheels to the suspension, have the big 4 wheel kit. I let my bro ride this sled and he was super surprised with how much less engine breaking he feels with this sled vs the past apex/nytro/2 stroke vipers we use to ride. He got off it and i pulled it forward with one hand, he laughed and said makes sense

 

[cannondale27]

Just got to put a few miles on the sled, my setup consists of airbox mod and d&d muffler.

clutch set up, opo spring, 14.5 mm rollers 50-38 helix, red ulmer spring.

right now im pulling 8850 with clutch arms from heel to tip 0-1-2-2. pretty snap, bottom end grabs belt good. Im no clutch expert but it goes really good, with fluffy inconsistent trails i seen 89mph.

my primary was a little warmer then id like it to be, i may try a little bit more helix 49-43 ? engagement is 3150

I like it.....let it snow

What was your setup before and rpms?

 

[yammitrip1]

first time riding the sled since i bought, the guy before me had a 50-46 helix in it, 15.6 stock rollers, gsg spring, 2-3-2-1

 

[Studroes144]

I assume you're using the magnaforce weights?

 

[cannondale27]

I had a Ulmer K helix which I was told is 49-41. I found a old Dalton? 50-40 and put that on. Boy sled feels totally different. Way snappier. Not sure but I don't think helix rates are very accurate or maybe that's done on purpose. Just saying cause they are expensive and may or may not give you what you are thinking.

 

[yammitrip1]

I had a Ulmer K helix which I was told is 49-41. I found a old Dalton? 50-40 and put that on. Boy sled feels totally different. Way snappier. Not sure but I don't think helix rates are very accurate or maybe that's done on purpose. Just saying cause they are expensive and may or may not give you what you are thinking.

yes d&d weights, i have a pile of helix's from my piped 2 stroke viper days. very very happy that these sleds use the same secondary clutch!

 

[Studroes144]

Good point on the helix's and angles being different from one manufacturer to the next. I ran a 50/46 Dalton the first year, it wouldn't work in my turbo so I've just been using Yamaha helix's for the last 3 seasons. Strangely enough the 50/46 Dalton was way more aggressive than yamahas 51/43. Hard to make true comparisons without using all the same brand helix's

 

[yammitrip1]

What i am trying to understand for these weights is, where to add or pull the weight out of. Any of you guys got a little explanation for that maybe?

 

[SnoNinja]

What i am trying to understand for these weights is, where to add or pull the weight out of. Any of you guys got a little explanation for that maybe?

Heel weight effects low end the most, but also has minor effect on mid and upper. Middle weight is aimed at mid range, and tip weight effects top end. Example, if rpms spike on launch, add heel weight. If rpm is too high on big end, add tip weight. If rpm is good on launch then falls as speed increases, take out tip weight. It's a balancing act with total weight and weight placement. Make one change at a time make a couple runs. Best to do it all one same day, same conditions, because it will vary with snow conditions

 

[Studroes144]

What i am trying to understand for these weights is, where to add or pull the weight out of. Any of you guys got a little explanation for that maybe?

Ran those weights with 50/46 the first year n/a, all weight was added tip first then worked backwards from there..granted that was with stock 15.6 mm rollers but that allowed sled to rev up and shift very quickly down low and made for an awesome 0-80 setup but could still run low 100's in perfect conditions. When I tried out a test can on mine we clutched it 0-1-2-3 heel to tip to maintain 9000 rpm.

 

[yammitrip1]

Heel weight effects low end the most, but also has minor effect on mid and upper. Middle weight is aimed at mid range, and tip weight effects top end. Example, if rpms spike on launch, add heel weight. If rpm is too high on big end, add tip weight. If rpm is good on launch then falls as speed increases, take out tip weight. It's a balancing act with total weight and weight placement. Make one change at a time make a couple runs. Best to do it all one same day, same conditions, because it will vary with snow conditions

Thanks Man, thats spot on! That was in my brain, just needed someone to put it all together! haha

 

[Studroes144]

Should mention that on most if not all of the adjustable weights, the first setting closest to heel will have little affect when changes are made. On the magnaforce weights when then weight makes contact with the rollers it's already past the first hole in the weights, so the second hole is where you'll want to focus on for the first 100' feet or so then after that the last 2 holes are where you'll be doing the majority of your adjusting. Not saying the first hole doesn't do anything, if extra weight is needed it'll provide it when full, just keep your focus more towards the tips on those weights.

 

[cannondale27]

Yammi what track are you running?