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'15 Viper, machine shut off under throttle, will not even turn over now?

Here's what I don't understand.

The machine was running, and under throttle when all of sudden it just shut down and wouldn't restart.

I get that the starter is seized and doesn't work, but why would it come on, and stall the motor when there should have been no input to the starter to engage/energize???

I am also concerned about the condition of the gear on the motor.


That is what happened to my friends sled. His son turned the key, the key stuck on and the starter fried while they were going down the trail....just shut off and they couldn't restart it.

Hopefully it's just the starter
 

So here's what I have found out today, and this is according to the Yamaha dealer.

There is a thread that stays at the top of the SR Yamaha forum asking about whether Vipers start better, worse, etc. with the most ECU flash.

If you read the bulletin, there is a bunch of verbage regarding kickback control. What they don't tell you is that the starter can randomly engage and stall the motor. This can result in the starter shaft breaking off, or chewing the teeth, or seizing the starter. Once I heard this, it all started to make sense.

Anyway, having found out earlier in the day that my machine is no more than 6 weeks out of warranty, it was worth it to inquire about warranty due to it being related to a known issue. Thus far, it has gotten me no where. I'm still holding out faith, but the reality is the season is short, and I need to fix this thing, then get it to the dealer to have the ECU updated.

Guess I'm ordering a starter. I'll take the other one to a shop and see if it is worth repairing it....
 
Here's what I don't understand.

The machine was running, and under throttle when all of sudden it just shut down and wouldn't restart.

I get that the starter is seized and doesn't work, but why would it come on, and stall the motor when there should have been no input to the starter to engage/energize???

I am also concerned about the condition of the gear on the motor.
They will be able to look for chipped teeth at least on gear when starter is out. OneWay would require some work to get at. Usually one way either works or it doesnt so probably will be fine. Failure actually has nothing to do with the engine running. If key were still in on position it would do same thing. Basicly starter is just spinning freely but for way too long. It gets hot and then the magnets fall off because glue holding them on cant take the heat from it running so long. Its almost always caused by the Solenoid(relay) at battery sticking on. For 18 they updated the Solenoid. I havent gotten around to putting it on but it should be a pretty easy retrofit. REPLACE SOLENOID AND STARTER AT SAME TIME.Here is pic of the 18 Soleniod. According to tech manual it is more reliable than previous version. I just plugged it in and turned key and contrary to rumors it is NOT solid state but I do plan on installing it to prevent a failure such as yours.
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Hey Cannondale,

I took the starter out. It was a bit of a pain, but not too bad.

Believe it or not, it looked pretty good, it was just seized solid.

I did as one of the guys told me (thanks by the way!) got my finger into the mount hole and was able to spin the gear. I figured while I was spinning it, I may as well keep spinning it to ensure the gear was good all the way around. Seemed good!!

Anyway, Yamaha wanted $600 for the starter. For all you Canucks, I found it at Royal Distributing for $120. Heck ya! So there are cheap ones available if you look around, I believe it is a Kimpex replacement (P/N 193743).

Now it’s off to the dealer for the ECU flash! Hopefully it doesn’t happen again!

Thanks to all for the help!
 
They will be able to look for chipped teeth at least on gear when starter is out. OneWay would require some work to get at. Usually one way either works or it doesnt so probably will be fine. Failure actually has nothing to do with the engine running. If key were still in on position it would do same thing. Basicly starter is just spinning freely but for way too long. It gets hot and then the magnets fall off because glue holding them on cant take the heat from it running so long. Its almost always caused by the Solenoid(relay) at battery sticking on. For 18 they updated the Solenoid. I havent gotten around to putting it on but it should be a pretty easy retrofit. REPLACE SOLENOID AND STARTER AT SAME TIME.Here is pic of the 18 Soleniod. According to tech manual it is more reliable than previous version. I just plugged it in and turned key and contrary to rumors it is NOT solid state but I do plan on installing it to prevent a failure such as yours.
View attachment 135776 View attachment 135777 View attachment 135778
Cannondale27, do you have to replace starter when you do this solenoid?
 
Hey Cannondale,

I took the starter out. It was a bit of a pain, but not too bad.

Believe it or not, it looked pretty good, it was just seized solid.

I did as one of the guys told me (thanks by the way!) got my finger into the mount hole and was able to spin the gear. I figured while I was spinning it, I may as well keep spinning it to ensure the gear was good all the way around. Seemed good!!

Anyway, Yamaha wanted $600 for the starter. For all you Canucks, I found it at Royal Distributing for $120. Heck ya! So there are cheap ones available if you look around, I believe it is a Kimpex replacement (P/N 193743).

Now it’s off to the dealer for the ECU flash! Hopefully it doesn’t happen again!

Thanks to all for the help!
That gear should spin freely one way and not the other. Check it again. Also don’t forget to replace the Solenoid I have pictured above. That’s what caused this issue.
 
They will be able to look for chipped teeth at least on gear when starter is out. OneWay would require some work to get at. Usually one way either works or it doesnt so probably will be fine. Failure actually has nothing to do with the engine running. If key were still in on position it would do same thing. Basicly starter is just spinning freely but for way too long. It gets hot and then the magnets fall off because glue holding them on cant take the heat from it running so long. Its almost always caused by the Solenoid(relay) at battery sticking on. For 18 they updated the Solenoid. I havent gotten around to putting it on but it should be a pretty easy retrofit. REPLACE SOLENOID AND STARTER AT SAME TIME.Here is pic of the 18 Soleniod. According to tech manual it is more reliable than previous version. I just plugged it in and turned key and contrary to rumors it is NOT solid state but I do plan on installing it to prevent a failure such as yours.
View attachment 135776 View attachment 135777 View attachment 135778

Are you recommending replacing the starter when you replace this solenoid? Are starters the same between 15 and 18?
I looked up the part number for the arctic cats in case anyone cares. 2015 number is 0445-123, $11.95 and the 2018 number it’s 0445-121, $19.95 at Country cat.
 
Are you recommending replacing the starter when you replace this solenoid? Are starters the same between 15 and 18?
I looked up the part number for the arctic cats in case anyone cares. 2015 number is 0445-123, $11.95 and the 2018 number it’s 0445-121, $19.95 at Country cat.
No. IF STARTER FAILS I RECOMMEND STARTER AND SOLENOID REPLACEMENT.

I am replacing my solenoid just as a precaution.
 
Not that there's anything wrong with yamaha dealer flash, most of them use companies like hurricane or evo, but since your out of warranty I'd say it's time to crank it up since it's in pieces! I went with evo powersports for my reflash and have been very happy with it. Based on the AFR readings they set them a little safe which is fine with me. I piggy backed with injectors and pcv-ti from ullmer. With a lower price starter I would check to see if you have quality bearings in it, skf, nsk, etc.. You don't want to save a few dollars and replace it again in a week.... Let us know how it works out. Good thread.
 
Not that there's anything wrong with yamaha dealer flash, most of them use companies like hurricane or evo, but since your out of warranty I'd say it's time to crank it up since it's in pieces! I went with evo powersports for my reflash and have been very happy with it. Based on the AFR readings they set them a little safe which is fine with me. I piggy backed with injectors and pcv-ti from ullmer. With a lower price starter I would check to see if you have quality bearings in it, skf, nsk, etc.. You don't want to save a few dollars and replace it again in a week.... Let us know how it works out. Good thread.


Ok, so my machine is fixed and the ECU flashed. I don’t think the dealer was too happy when I showed up with a fixed machine for a free ECU flash. I feel bad because the guys at Parkway Yamaha are amazing, I drive twice as far to go to them. They made time for me, took the sled, flashed it, and put it back in my truck. Thanks guys!

So to Yamaha mother ship, $600 for a starter is not reasonable, make it reasonable, and I’ll buy it. But if I can buy 5 aftermarket, to your 1, I’d sooner replace a starter a few times.

Yamatuner, where do I go to get a “go fast” flash done. I have no interest in bolting aftermarket stuff to my machine, but if something as simple as a flash can give me a few more oats, I’m all ears.

We’ve since lost all our snow, as I’m sure everyone in our geographic area has, so I patiently wait for more snow to test and experience the next adventure.

Might be a good time to put the DuPont sliders on.

To everyone here that added their 2 cents, and gave great suggestions, thank you again.
 
There are gains to be had by just flash tuning but they are limited until you bite the bullet and bolt on things like a free flowing exhaust to accompany added fueling and timing. The Viper is a little more difficult if you do just an ecu flash. You can add a pcv-ti with an upgraded fuel table. It all depends what you want to do. If you just want to drive your viper everyday for thousands of miles a year..... then a recent reflash that doesn't require exhaust ect.. would be the way to go. But if your looking for a ton more power/speed, bolt ons are necessary. My sidewinder was super easy to tune and I purchased my own flash tool. You could buy a pcv-ti and an auto tuner to play with tuning yourself but be sure to install an AFR gauge if you do anything. I trust yamaha engineering immensely with quality but they usually tune on the safe side which is understandable if your company is based on reliability.
 
Totally agree.

I’ve considered adding a can, but with all the morons out there that can’t stay on the trail, I don’t want to add to property owners frustration by driving something loud across their property. It is mind blowing how many trails have been closed in my area over the past 2 years. I’m guessing I can buy a can that isn’t crazy loud, but what’s acceptable?

To your point, I went to Yamaha for their reliability because I was so disappointed with BRP’s lack of it. With that in mind, doesn’t make much sense if I start messing with stuff and affecting reliability.

I’ll just buy a sidewinder next....
 


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