2003 RX1 in need of some attention

[Ployus]

Hello guys !

I'm trying to bring back to life a sled who has been badly (not) prepared for storage and spent the summer under a blue tarp with no air circulation. It's all rusty now and wont start ...

- I'm gonna change the sparkplugs (They look pretty bad)

- The ingnition coils seems ok, but there is one all rusty... Should I change them all ? (pretty expensive)
Is this a part that usually needs to be replaced ??

- I'm going to do a good carbs cleaning.

- I want to completly empty the gas tank and refill it with fresh fuel (I need help with that)

- I still need to check if the plugs are doing their job.. (I guess this is where i'll know if my coils are ok ?)

Anyother suggestions on things I should check-out to make this sled a happy one ?

Thanks

 

[stomper]

That sucks. As far as the tank goes it would be best to remove it to clean it out. Its easy, remove the seat buy first removing the black shroud around the tail light. This gives you access to 10mm nuts that hold the seat on. once the nuts are removed, lift up on the back of the seat and pull it back. Not to far though because you will have to disconnect the plug wires for the tail light. The plug should be under the side panel on the right side of the gas tank. You may need to remove the screw that holds that panel on to access the plug. Once the seat is off you will remove the cowling over the tank. Just remove the 4 screws that hold the cowling on and wire it up out of the way to the handle bars. once the seat is off there are 2 nuts holding the back end of the tank down, remove them. Unplug the wire on the front left of the tank (I believe it is the fuel level indicator). Remove the vent line and fuel lines from the front right of the tank. It may be easier the follow the vent line to the end of it and remove it there, what ever is easier. Lift the rear of the tank off of the studs at the back and pull the tank out. Install in the reverse order. I would empty the tank and rinse with some fresh gas.
As far as the coils go, I haven't had any problems with mine so I don't know much about them. I would start by cleaning them good and try them first.

 

[Ployus]

I must say thanks A LOT for this help it's great !! Thanks for the info on gas tank.

Situation is hopefull nut pretty bad hehe. To give an idea, the battery was literally floating in water in the plastic box (don't ask me why)
ALSO IM LOOKING FOR SCREWS and thing like that, mostly for body cause they're all very rusty i'd like to change them, but djeezus it's expensive and the oem parts sites... Anyone can tell me better way to get these ?

Regarding the gas tank... I was thinking, it's like 30-40% full right now. May be I can add a "stuff" and fresh gaz and shake it well. Pump fuel of the hoses and voila ?? You think it would be ok ? This fuel date of Feb...

If anyone has a minute i'd have a couple questions...

CARBS
I removed them and make a quick clean of the outside.
Removed the bowls and evrything looks pretty clean to me... checked the jets (main, pilot) and they're all top clean. Not sure i'm gonna remove everything and dip it all... You think that would be important to do ?? If yes wich stuff do you use for a deep carb cleaning solution ... How do you do it ??

FLOATS
You can see on the picture. from left to right. First and second floats are even. Third is a bit lower. And the last one on the right is much higher ?!? Do I have to make them even ? Not sure i'm qualified (lol) to adjust them with the gaz oressure and all since I don't really understand this part ... If I look closely on top I can see that last one had been worked with, some marks on the adjustment tab and on the jets head slot ... I'm thinking maybe there was a problem and it was fixed that way ? And the sled was riding fine to me last winter ... so what's up with that ??

Here a "sensor ?" looks added there by someone... the black cable goes under the cab and is cuted... maybe the mod had been removed now ?! Anyone have a idea of what kind of thing it was ? Something many people do on their sled maybe ? I'm really newb sorry

To give you a idea (for fun) of how all the engine and metal parts looked when I got this thing in my garage ... Was a living ecosystem...

After some clean-up

This plastic box, with some layers of electric tape and aluminium.. Not sure of what it does.. for oil emanation into airbox ??? Should I replace it or just add another layer of aluminium tape will do ?

Thanks again ! It's great to have access to people knowledge here really helpfull !!!

Marc

 

[Indy]

Its an oil catch can as you said. Alot of us have replaced it with a small breather/filter element. The idea was to reduce under piston pressure. The plugs should be NGK cr10ek's. Carbs look fine, make sure you havent lost the little o-ring. Replace the small phillips with set screws, you will appreciate it in the future, as the RX1 carbs will need to be cleaned quite often due to 87 octane with ethynol.

 

[Ployus]

Ok thanks !

- So you're saying it's all good if the floats are not at all at the same level ??

- What is the "small breather/filter element" you talk about to replace the oil catch can ?

- Installed plugs were CR9E ... Whats the diff with CR10EK ?

- Sorry for my ignorance but... what is set screws ? Were to get them ?
Also i'd like to get screws for the side panels cause some of them are stripped ...

- I run the sled with 91 or 94 octane only (Not sure about ethynol presence)... When you talk about cleaning carbs, are you saying to take everything apart or just to shoot some carb cleaner into it ?

ADDITIONNAL QUESTIONS

- Is it normal that the drive wheel move sideway like 2-3 mm loose ?

- I'm looking to lubricate/grease joints and bushings for direction and all moving parts... what stuff would you recommand... oil ? White grease ? ...

- After putting carbs and stuff back into it, i'm gonna go under the sled to check and lubricate as much as I can... Any specific parts or place it would be important to check and lubricate ??

Thanks again

 

[blkhwkbob]

You can get a lot of stuff on Ebay. There is a guy selling the panel screws right now. There are several grease fitting on the rear suspension. Use any good low temperature grease. A pistol grip grease gun is much better than a lever handle. Two hands versus three. He means socket head screws that you would use an allen wrench to turn. The Phillips screws will strip. The secondary does have play in it. Common sense tells me that the float heights should be equal.

You want a cool tip? Those stupid clear hoses on top of the carbs that barely fit over the little brass connectors and fall off every time you touch them? Get pieces of a larger tube and use them as couplings to keep the clear tube together.

Do yourself a favor and buy a service manual on cd or the book.

 

[YammyRX1]

I've read that since these motors are tuned for 87 octane you actually don't get better performance with 89 or 91- possibly worse. Most guys only use the high octane / non ethanol fuel for storage. You should use a good stabilizer like Seafoam as much as possible. The Cr10EK plugs are supposed to give you a couple more horsepower but I think they foul easier? Do a search and some info should come up. Also, always let it warm up good every time you start it or the plugs will foul no matter what kind you use. Ijust buy the grease at Canadian Tire that has the snowmobile on the tube.

 

[Ployus]

Hooray ! yesterday i installed the carburators back and recharged battery... kranked.. nothing... put some gaz right into the cylinders kranked a bit and voilà !! Running very nicely !! Good thing.
Oil filter and oil have like 200km so i'm leaving this as is. Gonna add some prestone (cause I spilled a lot when removing carbs)

I greased the 3 nozzles I found near the back of the suspension... Is there any more nozzles than these 3 ?

Now, bring the snow haha
Thanks for the help everyones !!!

 

[Indy]

it is typical for the antifreeze tank to look low FYI. definatley run 87 octane. there is a step by step for RX1 carb cleaning in the tech section.

 

[Ployus]

ok, but I dont see any antifreeze in the small tank above the thermostat ... How to add that ?? Start the sled and pour the antifreeze in that tank until it stops going down ?

Ok will try switch to 87 octane for next refill... now I refilled with 94 ...

Yeah I did looked to the carb cleaning section in the tech section, that was helpfull, but the barb were pretty clean and I dont have the tool the calibrate after (maybe i'm wrong)... But 2 friends came by to have a look and both told me the carbs were sparkling clean... the jets were top clean also... so that's it ...
And for the floats, i've put them all in line with the bowls wich is in the specs of the service manual (between 11 and 15 mm)
My friend told me probably the first one was higher (normal) cause some people lower the floats so the sled kicks on the main jets quicker and get better acceleration performances ...

 

[Indy]

yes, add to the antifreeze tank, if you fill it full . . . some will run out when running until it is at the correct level. Sounds like you got the carbs right, it is very common for the jets to plug, repeatedly.

 

[YammyRX1]

Seems to me there were more than 3 grease zerks but I swapped out my original skid so I can't check- anyone else? Also do the steering ball joints, spindles up front and you should search the thread for greasing the sealed bearings by Rockerdan. Might give you a few more seasons out of them- basically either pop the seals, clean and re-grease or drill a 1/16" hole in the seal and use a needle tip on the grease gun but don't over pack.

 

[maim]

should be 5 grease fittings on the proaction. just greased sapplingkillers war on sunday.

i reccomend that you drain all that gas out and burn it in your car. i run 91 for the 1st tank and the last tank with seafoam before storage. 87 is fine for the rest of the season.

that sensor looks like it is for an aftermarket tempurature gauge as they did not come equipped with one from factory. make sure your coolant is roughly 50/50 mix as it will run hot if it is pure antifreeze.

 

[Ployus]

Thanks everyones for the tips !

NOW I don't know what's wrong with me again... but I can't figure out to remove the belt ...
I want to access the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings to check them out and grease them.

I'm trying to park brake or brake with tightwrap.... Can't push and move the secondary clutch to loosen the belt at all....

Anyone can help me with that ?

 

[spr5088]

Push the helix in and rotate it clockwise at the same time. That frees up enough space to walk the belt out