2004 RX Warrior wierd hesitation

[brinkkl2000]

I have a problem that has had me scratching my head for a year now.

My dad has an RX Warrior, which he said I can have if I can fix it because he is sick of messing with it and he decided to buy an Apex. Anyway the problem we are having is that in the midrange it has a hesitation and will not go over 30- 40 mph If I pin the throttle the sled comes alive and runs perfect it will also sit and idle all day long. We have gone through the carbs several times, replaced all 4 ignition coils with the updated ones, replaced the cdi box, replaced the pick up coil. At the end of the season we replaced all the fuel lines in the tank and the tank filters, we also jetted up the pilot jets one size. We have not tested it yet with this set up so maybe it is fixed and I am premature at posting this but I wanted to know if anyone has something else I may need to check out. My local dealer just urges me to bring it in to them, which I would expect them to do, but they refuse to even point me in any direction at all. Hopefully some of the experts o here may be able to shed some light on it.

 

[Shattered]

I would suspect carbs. It sounds like you have done everything that I would have done, so it may well be fixed.

Make sure that your spark plugs are good and properly gaped. Also make sure that your carb boots are seated and sealed both between the carbs and the engine and the carbs and the air cleaner. I have read that air leaks in either place can cause problems.

 

[GUKROKIT]

Did you happen to clean or remove the tiny screens under the needle seat assembly ? These are often overlooked. I removed mine and installed external filters.

 

[hibshman25]

It could be a driveline issue that is causing resistance. I had a customer bring me the same sled last season for similar reasons. He had done carbs, coils, fuel filters, fuel pump and could not figure it out. Turned out it was a bad belt that was generating resistance in the driveline.

My suggestion would be remove the primary clutch and see if the engine rev's through the mid range. If the motor runs good then start with a belt and then check drive components. IF the motor still stumbles then I would check the slide diaphragms and needles. The needles are responsible for mid range fuel delivery.

 

[Mcdoudlehopper]

I agree with drive line issues by hibshman25. Was having problems with my Polaris indy and found my clutch rollers were bad and had one weight with a flat spot on it. My clutch wouldn't open in mid range or in the powder until it revved up. Compress your clutch maybe with two clamps and check rollers,, weights, and fiber bushing behind washer on main bolt that holds clutch on. If rollers or weights are worn, the clutch has a lot of resistance to open up until RPM's are high.

 

[Mcdoudlehopper]

Some times it is better to bring to a dealer and just have it diagnosed with out fixing. We do this at our dealership. would have been worth paying the $75 diagnose fee than throwing hundreds of dollars in parts at it to see if it fixes it and parts were still good. I wont buy parts until I diagnose them to no end and can completely deem them bad.

 

[brinkkl2000]

Thanks for the replies guys. I talked to a guy at the coffee shop and he had similar issues with his Viper, turned out it was worn clutch components. I have the clutch apart now and the weights look a little worn. Hard to tell for sure. There is a flat spot on them, but I am not sure if that is the way the weight is designed or if it is worn out.

Mcdoublehopper in some instances I agree, but the dealers we have in this area do not have a great reputation coming out of their service dept. and the fact that I like to do this stuff, good way to learn and potentially help someone else out in the future.

 

[Mcdoudlehopper]

Sorry I just caught up to this forum now but how did you make out?

 

[brinkkl2000]

I don't know yet. We got 2 ft of snow over 4 days just before Thanksgiving then lost it all in just as few days. Waiting to test it out. I did pull the clutch and it appeared as though the weights and a couple rollers were worn. It would have been about $400- $500 to get a clutch kit and rollers. My dad gave me the option of me buying the kit or he would buy a new (used 1800 miles) clutch for me for Christmas. So I took the used clutch as a present. If it does work I still have the opportunity to get the clutch kit myself and at least I will know it is fixed. Now we need about a foot of snow which according to the forecast looks as though we will never get it

 

[brinkkl2000]

Here is an update, we finally have enough snow to check it out. Put on the new "used" clutch and have no change. I did not pull the clutch itself apart to check the weights and rollers on this one. I noticed that when I let off the throttle the sled slows down very quickly, almost like the brakes are on quickly the brakes are not bound up however. The hesitation comes at around 6200- 6500 RPM and continues until I get just over 7000. I have to get on the throttle though to get it up out of that zone, going from around 1/4 throttle up to about 2/3. When I pinch the throttle at nearly any speed, even stopped, the sled will wait about 3 seconds before she spools up, but then runs perfect even right through 6500 RPM. She wont necessarily bog down when I pinch it just kind of waits until she is ready to go.

 

[hibshman25]

Did you do what I originally suggested? The results of what I suggested will indicate whether the problem is engine related or clutching and driveline related.

 

[brinkkl2000]

I think I combined a couple of suggestions, check the driveline/ clutch, and then per my usual; way of going about things I went for the most expensive option. Anyway, I pulled off the belt and ran the engine smoothly through the entire rpm range a few times. I put the spare belt on instead of the original and went out for about a half hour. Everything ran great 95-97% of the time! Just before I was going to run it home and call it success, the rpms hung up. Not as bad as it had though. I powered through the flat spot and decided to take it through a couple more passes and it seemed to be alright. It is good enough that I am going to take it out tonight with guys and run it through its paces and see how it goes.

 

[brinkkl2000]

Anyone have any opinions on drive belt? I am looking at Gates G-force carbon belt or Dayco Ultimax XS.

 

[brinkkl2000]

Went with the Dayco. Anyway went out with the guys Saturday and it ran great! Didn't hang up a single time. I did notice a slight squealing when the clutch engages the belt, but other than that I am happy. Thank you so much guys. I would have never thought driveline would cause that kind of problem.