2004 rx warrior

[dave hall]

Just bought this rx1 with 5600km on it, excellent shape. Stock it ran a 190km per hour run on its own speedometer ,and never missed a beat , i put on an MBRP exhaust, did the air box mod that is on this forum, installed 170main jets, put in the silver spring from Royal Distributing Book,CR10ek plugs and a clutch kit from Bender racing that came ready to install new helix as well with white spring. Sled now cuts out at 170km per hr like someone turns the key off or it slobbers and pops a little, you back off on the throttle and it runs fine again Doesn't miss a beat until you hit high speeds, any clues whats going on? and what top speed is possible for this machine? ,do you think 200km per is possible with my installed mods?

 

[yama_rider]

I cannot comment on your problems but they call the yamaha speedometer the "dreameter" because it is off by at least 10%. If you want it to be accurate, grind a tooth off the speedo gear on the driveshaft. Also to help with your mods, drop a tooth on the top drive gear.

 

[MrSled]

What jets were in it? A louder exhaust on decel will make all kind of noise but that sled should not cut out on acceleration.

 

[Indy]

I'd clean the carbs. I have the same setup except the airbox mod, I have K & N's and the clutch is a heavy hitter. Sounds like a plugged jet to me.

 

[dave hall]

I cannot comment on your problems but they call the yamaha speedometer the "dreameter" because it is off by at least 10%. If you want it to be accurate, grind a tooth off the speedo gear on the driveshaft. Also to help with your mods, drop a tooth on the top drive gear.

ya I heard the same about the speedo but just wanted to use it as a reference speed before and after mods thx

 

[dave hall]

I cannot comment on your problems but they call the yamaha speedometer the "dreameter" because it is off by at least 10%. If you want it to be accurate, grind a tooth off the speedo gear on the driveshaft. Also to help with your mods, drop a tooth on the top drive gear.

What jets were in it? A louder exhaust on decel will make all kind of noise but that sled should not cut out on acceleration.

What jets were in it? A louder exhaust on decel will make all kind of noise but that sled should not cut out on acceleration.

the jets I took out were 135 and it ran fine but like I said now it cuts outs at wide open speeds,

 

[MrSled]

Maybe give that sled a good carb cleaning to be sure that the pilot is not give you grief.

 

[ZapeX2]

Well, what rpms are you hitting when it studders? Make sure its not bouncing of the rev limiter. Did you check and see if the coil pacs are arcing against the walls?

Just a thought..... When I had mine I remember something about little filters/screens behind the needle valves in the bowls. I remember removing them but its kinda fuzzy now, that was a few years ago. Makes sense if they are a little plugged, you are calling for more fuel now. That is if you are lean at wot.... I think I used 170 mains as well....

 

[dave hall]

Well, what rpms are you hitting when it studders? Make sure its not bouncing of the rev limiter. Did you check and see if the coil pacs are arcing against the walls?

Just a thought..... When I had mine I remember something about little filters/screens behind the needle valves in the bowls. I remember removing them but its kinda fuzzy now, that was a few years ago. Makes sense if they are a little plugged, you are calling for more fuel now. That is if you are lean at wot.... I think I used 170 mains as well....

it starts to slobber and spudder around 10000rpm I notice to it will run smoother on hard backroads but if there is a little powder were it has to work a little, it act ups more. how do I check the rev limiter? it runs at 10500 when your hotdoggin it ,only high speeds does it act up, it wont rev over 10100 at that point, is the screen your talking about under needle seat that is operated by the float bowl?? /another thing it does since ive had it is just cruising it spudders away like a miss, but you when you hammer on it, runs good ,buddy of mine said move down one notch on the needle .what does this do? thx

 

[dave hall]

the jets I took out were 135 and it ran fine but like I said now it cuts outs at wide open speeds,

the jets I took out were 135 and it ran fine but like I said now it cuts outs at wide open speeds,

the jets I took out were 135 and it ran fine but like I said now it cuts outs at wide open speeds,

Dropping a tooth on my top gear, does this give me more torque or add to my speed? ,and will my stock chain still work ? I read were one guy went from stock 21 tooth to 24

 

[ZapeX2]

Yes if i remember correctly the screens are under the needle, its been a long time since I had one apart. You're not hitting the rev limiter at 10000. If it stumbles when under a bit of a load going down the road I would say it is starving for fuel. The screens might help this. As for the gargle in mid range, yes, play with the needles. I had to drop mine down a notch. Rich in mid range.... Just change one thing at a time or you might be chasing your tail.

 

[dave hall]

Yes if i remember correctly the screens are under the needle, its been a long time since I had one apart. You're not hitting the rev limiter at 10000. If it stumbles when under a bit of a load going down the road I would say it is starving for fuel. The screens might help this. As for the gargle in mid range, yes, play with the needles. I had to drop mine down a notch. Rich in mid range.... Just change one thing at a time or you might be chasing your tail.

thx. I was out yesterday and narrowed it down to when your under load like going across a lake in heavy fluff,when you have wot it pops and misses,when you back off the throttle it gets worse almost cuts out then levels out and then its good again,on hard pack road its fine other than i lost top speed with my bender clutch kit that came pre waited ,white springsand 40 deg helix mid range is good, is it possible that its getting to much fuel and not able to burn fuel off when its under load? I will look for this spring under needle seat and remove,one more thing when its warmed up ,it will only start when you give it just a little throttle, then it idles and rips good down the trail ,thx again

 

[dave hall]

I'd clean the carbs. I have the same setup except the airbox mod, I have K & N's and the clutch is a heavy hitter. Sounds like a plugged jet to me.

Cleaning carbs, do just get a good carb clearner and spray the crap out of it,then use compressed air to blowout,ive done that once when i installed 170main jets, it did run stock 190km(118mph) on hard pack and never missed a beat, i do realize speedometer is out of wack, but it gave me a speed to compare with after i added mbrp exhaust,jets, air box mod , bender clutch kit, i could only hit 110mph before jt started to act up,on hard pack road with 4inches of fluff,thx again for help

 

[ZapeX2]

Ya mine was always a bit finicky to start when warm. Always just gave a hint of throttle and it started right up every time. You could always try a set of smaller main jets to try. I know its a pain taking the carbs off all the time but you'll get it. Just hang in there....

 

[Indy]

Dave, there is a how to in the tech section on carb cleaning. But basically remove, take apart, clean jets and re-assemble. For some reason, carb cleaning is necessary quite often on the Rx. I usually say something stupid like if your seat is ripped, if your headlights dont work, or if your just bored . . . clean the carbs.