2007 Yamaha Apex electrical issue

[Curtis Burkhard]

Having an issue with my apex to where some days it will turn over fine no problem. Turn the key and it fires right up instantly. Next day I could go out and when I turn the key all I’ll get will be the yellow light on the dash with the engine symbol. Brand new battery in it last week but for some reason it seems like there’s a short somewhere in the system

 

[theCATman]

Crank but no start? Or no crank either?

 

[Curtis Burkhard]

No crank. No pop nothing. Just silent. You can hear the fuel pump running and then when going to turn the key it just pops up with the yellow light and the engine symbol. I’m just curious on where I should start with this since one day it’ll fire and the next day nothing.

 

[theCATman]

Start with the new, updated fuel pump relay. It's in a red case, solid state type now. $22 part.

After that, do a search here on TY of ground block issues with the older Apexs.

A common wiring problem place is where wiring goes thru nose to the voltage regulator.

But start with the updated fuel pump relay. Left side, behind the secondary clutch, 1st relay on the left.

 

[Curtis Burkhard]

Is there anyway to test it before buying? Would a bad fuel pump relay cause it to not start? Just figured since the pump was working it wouldn’t be that, but I appreciate the response.

 

[sideshowBob]

A defective or frozen fuel pump relay won't stop the engine from cranking over. Its a good idea to replace the relay with a "RED" relay but your no crank issue is likely an issue with your wiring. If you never had this issue prior to changing your battery I would start there. The fuse block right by your battery and starter solenoid is a known issue

Next time it wont crank try boosting it...you never know new batteries have been known to be defective.

 

[Stubbs]

True story, if you can hear the fuel pump prime and pressurize the fuel rail when you turn the key on, a new fuel pump relay isn’t going to solve your problem. Ground blocks are a good place to start first. Sounds more likely that the starter solenoid/relay is your issue if they come back clean. They tend. to act up intermittently at first. This part is located next to your battery, and has 2 fuses installed in it. The white connector plugged into it is not sealed, and can become corroded, also something to check.

 

[Curtis Burkhard]

True story, if you can hear the fuel pump prime and pressurize the fuel rail when you turn the key on, a new fuel pump relay isn’t going to solve your problem. Ground blocks are a good place to start first. Sounds more likely that the starter solenoid/relay is your issue if they come back clean. They tend. to act up intermittently at first. This part is located next to your battery, and has 2 fuses installed in it. The white connector plugged into it is not sealed, and can become corroded, also something to check.

Thanks for the support around this guys. Unfortunately this issue happened after redoing the exhaust so I’m pretty frustrated right now to say the least lol

 

[mpi xtx]

Mine does the same thing some days. I have found that after a no start scenario like yours I will charge the battery for a bit, after that it will fire up right away. I am assuming the voltage is just a little low to run something properly????

 

[Curtis Burkhard]

Mine does the same thing some days. I have found that after a no start scenario like yours I will charge the battery for a bit, after that it will fire up right away. I am assuming the voltage is just a little low to run something properly????

I would agree with that. However I don’t want to take it somewhere and get stranded so I just want to ensure I get the issue fixed.

 

[steiner]

1. Check the white connector beside the battery.This is known to corrode it will produce a no start situation. You may have aggravated it while changing the battery as it is mounted beside the battery on the starter relay.
2. Check the connector for the ign switch. It is just under the cover where the switch is mounted. Have seen a few where the terminals are a bit loose. The connector may have brown/black spotting from arcing.
3. Open up the harness on the clutch side and locate the three ground blocks. These have been known to corrode and will produce intermittent electrical issues.

 

[Curtis Burkhard]

Alright guys. Tore into it tonight and upon inspection there is a little corroding by the white block. I will get that cleaned up. The fuses look good but my question is on that block there are 4 female ends but as you can see I only have 3 wires going in? Is this normal or the same as what you guys have seen?

 

[Stubbs]

Yes, that’s normal. I’d replace that relay assembly, and make sure all three female pins in that white connector are free of corrosion.

 

[Curtis Burkhard]

Yes, that’s normal. I’d replace that relay assembly, and make sure all three female pins in that white connector are free of corrosion.

Would I be able to test the relay before replacing or should I just get it done and over with.. I will clean the terminals up.

 

[74Nitro]

Having an issue with my apex to where some days it will turn over fine no problem. Turn the key and it fires right up instantly. Next day I could go out and when I turn the key all I’ll get will be the yellow light on the dash with the engine symbol. Brand new battery in it last week but for some reason it seems like there’s a short somewhere in the system

Be sure the battery bolts r tight enough also.