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2012 AK sled build

The tube layout on the new one will be very clean. Going to use larger OD tube to reduce the amount of tubing needed.

Building a mock viper front clip out of steel pipe right now to see what it looks like before building the jig. Modifying the upper a-arms slightly and want to get a visual first.

And yes, it will fit the Apex motor. Anchorage Yamaha is set on using 4 cylinders.
 

So running the numbers and doing some more paper engineering, it looks like the entire front section including steering & motor mounts will only be 16 tubes and less then 27 total feet. Using a combination of 1 x .035, 1 x .049, 1-1/4 x .035 and 1-1/4 .049, total tube weight would be right at 14.5 lbs and under 15.5 lbs with motor mounts & shock/a-arm tabs.

For comparison, that’s what just my bastardized Nytro subframe weighs. Add another 11 lbs for the modified diecast sides & hardware.

I leave tomorrow for a week for Christmas but will post pictures when I get back. I’ll just add this one for now.
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I used picture I had saved of Extreme Motorworks Nytro IQR. The Viper is similar aside from the upper a-arm would mount to the same tube the shock mounts too. I’m narrowing the distance between upper a-arm mounts so that tube will only be about 8” long.

The red tubes would be 1-1/4 .049, the orange tubes 1-1/4 .035 and the blue tubes 1 x .035. The motor mounts would be on the tube that ties in the chaincase loops, and the vertical orange tubes behind the shock mount.

I’ve been pricing tubing and would like to use Docol r8 on this one. Do you guys think 1 x .049 would be strong enough if used for all tubes? I don’t want to add tubes, so I’d rather run bigger tubing then add more tubes.

A few things.
- steering hoop and chaincase loops will be bent pieces (not mitered like paint shows)
- upper a-arm and shock will mount on the same 8” long tube
- vertical tube that runs from the rear lower shock mount to the upper shock mount will also have the motor mount welded to it.
- cross piece shown will run between the rear lower a-arm mounts.

The most cost efficient solution is to use all 1 x .049 Docol. I also don’t think 1-1/4 will clear behind the secondary clutch when it’s opened up. The goal is the absolute minimum amount of tubes and welding. Less clutter, less labor(notching), less welding, less warping. Total weight using 1 x .049 would be about 13.6 lbs
 
Looking forward to watching this project. So many things I’d like to do different on my tubie if I was to do it again. Really would like it in viper plastics, the engine is a huge pain to remove ect ect.

I would highly recomend getting bendtech. Www.bend-tech.com

It’s awesome software, can tell you tube length, weight, bend locations, and even prints out templates to wrap on the tubes for notching. Makes perfect notches.

Even if you wanted to send me some simple dimensions of your bent tubes I’d be happy to draw them and send you all of the bending/notching templates. I have never used Docol and I don’t know of any suppliers nearby but I could even bend them and ship to you. I have a jd2 model 3 bender. I don’t recall what you were using for a bender.
 
A buddy has a JD model 32 I can use. Just need to figure out the tube size so I can order the correct die.

AED Motorsports sells Docol, although they can only ship via air in 8 ft lengths.

I’ll look into Bend-Tech, it may very well be worth it for this one. It would be nice to reduce the scrap too.
 
A few years ago I was pricing out 4130 tube and 5/8" was priced much lower than sizes smaller and larger. As far as the front suspension angles go I would want the front lower a arm mount higher than the rear mounting point so far as if the ski hooked on a railroad track and stopped the ski dead the shock would fully compress before permanent deformation of the suspension components.
 
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Sad day cutting apart the Nytro tunnel frame.

Started working on a jig for the lower a-arm tubes. Going to build a new front end in a few sections before doing the final jig.
 
For the chassis I want to build, the upper forward a-arm mount must move back towards the shock mount. Looks like the mounting points will now be 6” on center. I’d really like to do closer to 5” but that seems tight.

I borrowed a factory 36” upper a-arm from the dealer to jig. The new a-arms will reuse the factory outer rod end but the inside will be Nytro bushings instead of the viper blocks that bolt to the subframe. The Nytro bushings are kinda large but I already have all the pieces to make arms. Using 3/4 .049 4130 for the a-arms.
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Surprisingly they are the same weight. Viper mount block and steel bushing is 88 grams. Nytro a-arm tube, bushings & sleeve is 88 grams.
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So cool!! I still think you should experiment with a flat plate tunnel and water jet out the sides and maybe a small tiny amount of cromo for support if at all. Will build 10x faster and possibly only be a 1-3lbs heavier.


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This isn’t the best picture but where all the white marble is make an entire side plate that is the foundation of the tunnel using 3/16” 7075 plate (or something lighter) Have drop brackets built in for your suspension, do cut outs everywhere to lighten it up and then rivet carbon plate to the inside to seal it up. Use a thin aluminum angle at the top and bottom so you have a way to connect a top plate and a ledge to sit your boards on. Use your fab skills to weld chromo boards and some cross links for your seat gas tank etc.

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I keep coming up with about 12lbs without the boards. Big thing for me would be having it water jet out just simplifies everything. Now you line up your drive shaft centers and every other important measure is already done. Now just start assembling and minor fab as you go. I will do this next summer if I can get access to a better shop.


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