Carefull in changing the a-arm mount points. The shock does take up quite a bit of space. It doesn't look it when the arm is on the work bench, but have a closer look when its actually on the sled. Also watch it cycle through the full moment, form just hanging there to full compression. The angle changes quite a bit. Its a different monster than the Nytro. Where the shock was just straight up and down. Mind you if your going with just plain floats they are defiantly a smaller (in physical) size shock.
I would also consider lowering the the drive shaft, like Cat did for the Mountain cat. And Doo for that matter on the new G4 It defiantly helps.
I would also consider lowering the the drive shaft, like Cat did for the Mountain cat. And Doo for that matter on the new G4 It defiantly helps.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Kinger, cnc’d aluminum sides would certainly make life easier and take the guess work out. The Nytro & Pro tunnels are both multiple pieces and work fine.
I found a complete non reverse Apex chaincase I should have in a couple weeks so I can mock up the drivetrain.
I’m buying a small metal lathe & have access to a larger one, so I think I might go with my original plan of narrowing the drivetrain to accommodate a 15.5” ID tunnel. Get the secondary as close as possible to the tunnel and then move the motor over. Put the oil tank in front of the engine. It’s more work but would make for a very nimble sled and about as narrow as possible.
I found a complete non reverse Apex chaincase I should have in a couple weeks so I can mock up the drivetrain.
I’m buying a small metal lathe & have access to a larger one, so I think I might go with my original plan of narrowing the drivetrain to accommodate a 15.5” ID tunnel. Get the secondary as close as possible to the tunnel and then move the motor over. Put the oil tank in front of the engine. It’s more work but would make for a very nimble sled and about as narrow as possible.
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks, the dealer has a unit on the floor with 36” arms and I have a mock upper arm to test fit/find the correct bend to clear to the shock body . Shocks will be regular Floats.
I will also look into lowering the driveshaft. I have a clean slate to work with so now is the time to make changes.
Appreciate all the help.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Barcode, how much lower is the driveshaft on the newer models you’re talking about?
I have an older Proclimb chassis I can jig, just need to know how much they moved the driveshaft down and back(if any).
If I’m going to do that, I think the easiest thing to do is jig the Proclimb lower a-arm mounts, new driveshaft location and front suspension arm location. Then put the motor in the jig keeping the crank center same distance from driveshaft as the Nytro, and roll the jackshaft from there to get the proper center from crank.
I want to keep the motor as close to the driveshaft as practical to keep weight centralized.
I have an older Proclimb chassis I can jig, just need to know how much they moved the driveshaft down and back(if any).
If I’m going to do that, I think the easiest thing to do is jig the Proclimb lower a-arm mounts, new driveshaft location and front suspension arm location. Then put the motor in the jig keeping the crank center same distance from driveshaft as the Nytro, and roll the jackshaft from there to get the proper center from crank.
I want to keep the motor as close to the driveshaft as practical to keep weight centralized.
I don't have the actual dimension off hand. But I will have this coming week, have both a 2013 XM summit X and our new 2018 G4 Summit X in our shop. Ill take some measurements for you. As for the Cat. Not sure but I know its been pretty much beaten to death on SW. Ive cxontiplatd on doing the swap on our Viper. But I'm not ready to lose the reverse yet on that particular sled. Ive also read going to a 8t driver in the older(12-16) pro chassis is a very close compromise to the new shaft location. But I don't have first hand experience with that.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I found it
kinger
VIP Member
I also have a non reverse apex chain case if you ever needed it. I wouldn’t over think the mounting and narrowing stuff. Model and use more known parts so that it’s easy to repair, sell, etc. some day. Good luck!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
HighSpeedLowDrag
Pro
I wouldn't want drive sprockets exposed below the bulkhead as far as impact damage goes.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks. I found a complete one for pretty cheap.
The jackshaft requires no work to narrow the tunnel. Just a different bearing and flipped around backwards.
Driveshaft would need about 1” of the hex machined off on the clutch side.
Either way, I will finally get to use my 8.6 gram aluminum speedo gear bolt I bought 2 years ago haha.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I will have to trim the skin again on the bottom to get a straight line.
Tube layout. Bottom tube will be a single 1 x .049 tube all the way from the front a-arm to rear bumper. Sides will have 1 x 1/2 .035 rectangle again, and I’ll reuse my running boards and seat frame. Similar to my original tunnel but simpler and quite a bit lighter. I will still be adding a couple 1/4 x .035 tubes to the running boards to bridge the larger gaps.
I put the skin and gas tank on to get a look at the steering hoop. I want the hoop to be straight tube from the running boards and run in front of the gas tank to make the pyramid smaller and hopefully stronger.
And as much as I’d like to narrow the sled it won’t happen since I’d need a new tunnel skin. So stock Apex setup it is.
Tube layout. Bottom tube will be a single 1 x .049 tube all the way from the front a-arm to rear bumper. Sides will have 1 x 1/2 .035 rectangle again, and I’ll reuse my running boards and seat frame. Similar to my original tunnel but simpler and quite a bit lighter. I will still be adding a couple 1/4 x .035 tubes to the running boards to bridge the larger gaps.
I put the skin and gas tank on to get a look at the steering hoop. I want the hoop to be straight tube from the running boards and run in front of the gas tank to make the pyramid smaller and hopefully stronger.
And as much as I’d like to narrow the sled it won’t happen since I’d need a new tunnel skin. So stock Apex setup it is.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
G19 all stock except Trijicon HD night sights. I carry it daily and have a G20 I carry when we head outdoors.
Carry the G19 in a Gunfighters IWB holster along with a spare G17 magazine in a ZZZ IWB mag pouch. Pretty comfortable setup. Not as comfortable as my wife’s S&W Shield but I prefer my round capacity.
Carry the G19 in a Gunfighters IWB holster along with a spare G17 magazine in a ZZZ IWB mag pouch. Pretty comfortable setup. Not as comfortable as my wife’s S&W Shield but I prefer my round capacity.
Nice, I don't carry, but probably chose the same if needed. I do have a handful of different Glock's but not in 10mm for some reason I'm kinda partial to the .40 not sure why.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I think my 10mm is my favorite, it’s a powerhouse. I carry it for bear protection when my shotgun isn’t readily available.
Stopped by the dealer tonight with some scrap 1/2 tube and bender to figure out my upper a-arms. Cycling the suspension it looks like I can comfortably do the mounts 5.5” apart using regular Floats.
Stopped by the dealer tonight with some scrap 1/2 tube and bender to figure out my upper a-arms. Cycling the suspension it looks like I can comfortably do the mounts 5.5” apart using regular Floats.
Looks good!! Yea I really don't have any issues with bears haha But I do like my DE .50 So not practical but sure is fun.
Had the two Summits together last night. with out taking them both apart to measure. The G4's chain case is 1.25-1.5" lower than the XM its the same distance from the front skid mounting point.
Had the two Summits together last night. with out taking them both apart to measure. The G4's chain case is 1.25-1.5" lower than the XM its the same distance from the front skid mounting point.