2012 apex monoshock cable delete settings.

[jgustman]

Is turning the adjustment directly at the shock clockwise or right increasing the compression or decreasing it? Also how many clicks from full rebound stiff is there?

 

[Stubbs]

Clockwise is stiff on the shock itself, counter-clockwise softens things up. I think it’s 30 clicks of adjustment, but it’s been a few years since I’ve had an Apex with a mono.

 

[vx700xtc]

Shock turns opposite of the tunnel knob.

 

[jgustman]

That’s what I thought... I had it rebuilt by “My shock shop” here in Mn. Now it seems too stiff even at full soft setting on the clicker. It use to bottom out quite easily don’t think it had been rebuilt before at almost 6000 miles and sucked up all stutter bumps, now it’s beating my spine up on everything, could jump most field approaches without bottoming. He says he didn’t adjust anything, just rebuilt but uses slightly heavier shock oil...

 

[Stubbs]

There is a long rod inside the shock itself that controls the rebound, the clicker assembly has a “pointer” of sorts on the end of it with a taper. The end of the rod in the shock is moved up or down by this taper being adjusted in our out by the clicker. I’ve seen 2 KYB Mono shocks over the years with a slightly bent rod at the end. It’s bent just enough at the end so that it will no longer move up and down to adjust the oil flow, even though the clicker feels like it’s operating normally from the outside. If the shock feels identical through the bumps whether set to full hard or full soft, this could be your issue. The shock is stuck on the full hard setting due to a bent rod inside.

 

[jgustman]

There is a long rod inside the shock itself that controls the rebound, the clicker assembly has a “pointer” of sorts on the end of it with a taper. The end of the rod in the shock is moved up or down by this taper being adjusted in our out by the clicker. I’ve seen 2 KYB Mono shocks over the years with a slightly bent rod at the end. It’s bent just enough at the end so that it will no longer move up and down to adjust the oil flow, even though the clicker feels like it’s operating normally from the outside. If the shock feels identical through the bumps whether set to full hard or full soft, this could be your issue. The shock is stuck on the full hard setting due to a bent rod inside.

This could be an issue, the clicker seems very hard to turn at times like it’s sticking internally. I asked the shock rebuilder about this as well and he said it looked good when he rebuilt it. Kinda sceptical at this point. I broke the new remote adjustment cable just trying to turn it softer right after reinstalling it.

 

[Stubbs]

Honestly? I think I’m spot on now that you’ve said the clicker was stiff. The rod may have slipped a little passed the tip of the taper and the clicker is trying to drill the pointy end through that rod now that the shock is back together and charged with nitrogen again. In my opinion it needs to come apart......I’ve been down this road.

 

[jgustman]

Honestly? I think I’m spot on now that you’ve said the clicker was stiff. The rod may have slipped a little passed the tip of the taper and the clicker is trying to drill the pointy end through that rod now that the shock is back together and charged with nitrogen again. In my opinion it needs to come apart......I’ve been down this road.

Yep. Thanks for the info., makes sense. I will pass this on to the rebuild guy.

 

[WinderFab]

When you remove your shock and or get it back from the shock rebuild you can use a Robertson screwdriver and go through the click and see how it feels, should turn and click freely..

 

[jgustman]

That’s what I have been using...It turns free at some clicks and really hard at others...

 

[vx700xtc]

Your "shock guy" needs to try again.

 

[vx700xtc]

I suggest High Gear twisted spring. I had my 2012 done and LOVE it. Its pricey, but still soaks up the studder and DOES NOT bottom.

 

[jgustman]

Will do, thanks