2014 Apex tippy around corners ?!?!

[WinderFab]

X2 on good info...
But I think there's something up here, no one in there right mind would set up a sled like he did lol...
Plus he hasn't replied since n no were to be found...
I think his doo buddies were behind this lol...

 

[nate007]

The replies above are all correct...
The only thing not mentioned is the skis
If you are running single carbides, the sled will be darting, which also causes lift
Get 8 inch multiple carbides on it. Woodies duallies, or snowtrakers

Darting does not cause ski lift. Cornering forces or improperly tuned suspension while cornering will cause lift.
Single carbides will work for most applications, but Dooleys and other double bars have their own problems. I had Dooleys on my Apex for a season and a half, and could never get over 6-7 miles per gallon. The bars would pack full of ice and they would just push a huge trench through the snow, causing tons of drag. Went to triple points and have had the same set on it for about 7 years now.
If you don't want to buy new carbides though, at least shim your skis. You can do that by lifting the lifting the front of the sled and removing the skis and the ski rubbers. Then turn the ski rubber(s) around so the tall part of it is in the rear, and reassemble. Place the sled on flat, level concrete and see if the front of the carbide is off the ground. If not, place a small square of plastic material that's approx 1"x2" and about 3/16" thick (cut up an old hyfax if you have some) under the REAR part of the ski rubber between the ski and the rubber, and check again. You want only the rear of the carbide touching the concrete. Once you have the weight resting on the rear of the carbide only, put a couple small screws in the shims to hold them to the rubber and keep them from piping out. Most darting problems are caused by the skis being tipped downward in the front, paving the skis weight ahead of the ski bolt/axle. You want the ski rubbers to be working to lift the front of the ski, and the weight to be behind the axle/bolt. Getting your skis to be "nose up" will do more for darting than anything, regardless of what carbides you have.

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[wkeggenhoff]

I HAVE RTX 2006 APEX WITH WIDE FRONT END KIT AND SWAY BAR. HIGH SPEED CORNERING STILL LIFTS INSIDE SKI. TRYED EVERY SKI,SUSPENSION, CARBIDE COMBO AND DOESNT MAKE A LOT OF DIFFERENCE WHEN RIDING HARD.
NATURE OF THE BEAST

 

[SumpBuster]

Sure, low speed it steers a little hard...but That only happens twice...getting up to speed and slowing down. This apex will handle. Soft front, as in low cg, 13 mm bar and...make sure those sway bushings are tight so you get twist right away...soft rear, unless the trails are g outs.....sink that thing into the trail...keep the transfer decent so you have options cornering, as in feathering the throttle to get a little more or less bite...and yes, you get a few inches of inside lift but very predictable when that outside bites hard....hit the gas and the transfer lightens the front and it settles oh yeah..curve skis and shimmed rubber...in the back makes steering hard but reduces darting..in front of the pivot point, quick steering and darting...and dangerous!!!.
Very confidence inspiring setup, but not for everyone...have to pick up the pace for it to come in....

 

[Redbeard]

Darting does not cause ski lift. Cornering forces or improperly tuned suspension while cornering will cause lift.
Single carbides will work for most applications, but Dooleys and other double bars have their own problems. I had Dooleys on my Apex for a season and a half, and could never get over 6-7 miles per gallon. The bars would pack full of ice and they would just push a huge trench through the snow, causing tons of drag. Went to triple points and have had the same set on it for about 7 years now.
If you don't want to buy new carbides though, at least shim your skis. You can do that by lifting the lifting the front of the sled and removing the skis and the ski rubbers. Then turn the ski rubber(s) around so the tall part of it is in the rear, and reassemble. Place the sled on flat, level concrete and see if the front of the carbide is off the ground. If not, place a small square of plastic material that's approx 1"x2" and about 3/16" thick (cut up an old hyfax if you have some) under the REAR part of the ski rubber between the ski and the rubber, and check again. You want only the rear of the carbide touching the concrete. Once you have the weight resting on the rear of the carbide only, put a couple small screws in the shims to hold them to the rubber and keep them from piping out. Most darting problems are caused by the skis being tipped downward in the front, paving the skis weight ahead of the ski bolt/axle. You want the ski rubbers to be working to lift the front of the ski, and the weight to be behind the axle/bolt. Getting your skis to be "nose up" will do more for darting than anything, regardless of what carbides you have.

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I've been riding sleds my entire life and have never read such thorough information on suspension adjustments. Thank you!

 

[SumpBuster]

Nate is right....and you have to try things to see what you like. Years ago, several of my ski doos had adjustable skis...where you could put more or less pressure behind or ahead of the pivot point....made a huge difference in handling.
...My friend is now on an 'apex' Vector anniversary and does not like how mine feels compared to his...his doolies can sometimes get you in the toolies....but steering effort is so light....however, he always says mine goes where you want it too and is much better faster....

 

[nate007]

Thanks guys, hope something helps. Making suspension adjustments is not always just as simple as cranking the damper knobs and beating the daylights out of it. They're surprisingly complex, and knowing your machine and how to fine tune it can make the difference between hating it or never wanting to sell it.
One other thing I wanted to stress when making suspension adjustments is to be sure everything is greased really well! You'd be amazed how corroded and crappy the a arm shafts and rear skid pivot shafts can look after one summer of storage without servicing them first. If you're sled doesn't have zerts to grease the shafts, I can't stress enough the importance of taking them apart, cleaning and greasing with a good low temp grease. Don't just use whatever you have laying around either. Many greased will get thick or sticky when they get cold. Use a good marine low temp grease so that it doesn't get washed out over the season.
If the suspension won't move freely, most of your suspension adjustments won't show any changes if the suspension is sticking.

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