toolman11k
Veteran
I need some dimensions and part numbers for the steel shaft and the bushings that are available to fix this issue. I searched and found the steel cross shaft is arctic cat part number 3604-798
What I need to know is does someone make a bronze bushing to go inside the shock that fits over the steel shaft, if so what are the dimensions, as you can see the shock seems pretty worn, I am going to pull it out and measure the hole and see if I can clean it up, but it should get a bushing.
Also wondering if there is a way to drill new mounting holes in the rails since these are really worn out bad, I could move them up and decrease the travel? or move them back, however i am not sure the shock is long enough, any ideas would be welcomed.
What I need to know is does someone make a bronze bushing to go inside the shock that fits over the steel shaft, if so what are the dimensions, as you can see the shock seems pretty worn, I am going to pull it out and measure the hole and see if I can clean it up, but it should get a bushing.
Also wondering if there is a way to drill new mounting holes in the rails since these are really worn out bad, I could move them up and decrease the travel? or move them back, however i am not sure the shock is long enough, any ideas would be welcomed.
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
On our red Viper when I first started experimenting with shock relocation to match the same year M8, I moved the mount point up. It is still that way, some have moved the mount point and had bent shafts but as others are stock with bent shaft I cannot say it is caused by relocation. I would in your case move the mount point up but offer the standard disclaimer of modify at your own risk. The pic below s how our Viper has been for the last two seasons, your mileage may vary.
If you do this mod back your shock adjustment via the collars all the way down, see in the pic. The move forward increases spring pressure (which is needed). If you do it post back on how it works out.
If you do this mod back your shock adjustment via the collars all the way down, see in the pic. The move forward increases spring pressure (which is needed). If you do it post back on how it works out.
swampcat
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2014
- Messages
- 623
- Reaction score
- 378
- Points
- 668
- Location
- N. E. Wi.
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2020 S W LTX-GT
Some place makes rail repair kits for this. Dont remember who though.
Whenever egged out holes came in we usually just TIG welded them closed and drilled new. Not sure what they were thinking when they put a aluminum shaft in there. I am sure if the shaft doesnt bend (steel) those bolt holes will be fine if repaired or moved.
toolman11k
Veteran
Does anyone know of a aftermarket shock bushing, I saw someone had a bronze busing, I am not sure what you guys are using there. I will remove the shock and measure the eye, however I think it is damaged as well. When I called Yamaha for parts, the only thing they show is a 3 piece part, there is no way I am putting that in, I will probalby just make my own shaft out of steel I guess. I know someone has posted a arctic cat part number, but yamaha seemed to know nothing about it. 3604-798. the other thought I had was a larger cross bolt that was heavier duty with a aluminum sleeve.
You are either going to have to bore the eyelet oversize and make a custom bushing or replace the end cap. Yamaha does not sell shock parts seperatly but Cat does and they are identical. The bronze bushing you are talking about is sold by Hygear. The shaft you are looking for is in the RTX LE,Cat RR or XC. All the same steel shaft.
toolman11k
Veteran
Great information, thank you. Is the stock busing plastic or rubber?
nherbst454
Pro
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2014
- Messages
- 162
- Reaction score
- 54
- Points
- 283
- Location
- Woodbury, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 SR Viper XTX-SE
I think I'm going to buy some Oilite bearing material and start machining some bushings for mine to eliminate this potential issue.
It's plastic.
The stock bushing looks like a piece of plastic drip line tubing. the Hygear metal one that I used on my Zero Pro shocks was a bit loose fitting and also a bit short, but with a little peening and some Loctite it seems to be doing the job.
Hygear seemed to think that their bushing was good enough, but if I had the capabilities I'd have something better built.
My plastic one is doing just fine. The key is that shaft. If you ride hard it will bend. Is a reason they put steel in LE and RR.
