newtron
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Before I start I just want to tip my hat to Cannondale for his help on this project. Not only did his FAQs help a great deal on this site but he was absolutely great answering any pm questions I gave him. His knowledge of this stuff is impeccable.
Last year I had a few stud pullouts so I needed to change the track. I was just going to take it to the dealer but with the time we have before the snow flies I decided to tackle this myself.
I'm not going to post every step as most of its in the FAQs. I'll just add what is not there and what I noticed with 2700 miles on my sled.
After you get the gear case off, take a picture of everything assembled and steps pulling the gears out. By the time you put it back together there's a good chance you won't remember or will second guess how it goes back together.
Inspection of the gears and chain was great after 2700 miles. No sign of wear even on the main top gear.
After the chain case was gutted I pulled the skid out. I didn't have a ceiling winch or high jack to lift the back end way up. To get the skid out I used a ratchet strap to pull the front shock down to pull it out easier. Taking the shock out would be an option but just another bolt to remove.
When the skid was out I went to the clutch side and oops....I forgot to take the secondary off before I took the gears out. Not a bid deal but you have to jam something in the secondary to get the bolt off. Brake doesn't work when gears are out. lol
Took the snap ring off the shaft that holds the brake on, but the brake wouldn't come off by just pulling on it. I took a 30 mm socket, pulled the shaft as far as I could out of the gear box, wedged a rubber hammer behind the brake rotor and tapped the 30 mm socket with a hammer till the shaft was loose. Although the shaft was loose I still couldn't get the full brake assembly out of the little hole it sits in. After wrestling with it for 15 min I just split the brake assembly and it came out no problem.
After that was out I inspected the bearings on the top and bottom shaft on the clutch side. The bottom shaft bearing was good but with little grease left in it. Cleaned the junk out with a Q tip, sprayed with wd40 and packed it with grease
Cleaned packed with grease:
The upper shaft bearing on the clutch side was pretty much empty with grease. This should b greased more regularly.
Packed with grease:
After this was all done it was time to put it back together. I have read something about using a ratchet strap to get it back together, but never understood...... I do now! To get the snap ring on the bottom gear I had to use a strap to pull the tunnel together so the snap ring would go on. Cleaned all bolt holes on the case, cleaned the oring on the cover with a Qtip, then put it back together.
The reverse actuator was preloaded a bit when I took it off so when I put it back on I preloaded again just to keep it the same. Oh don't forget to put the gear oil in before the actuator... lol!
This skid was in good shape except for the bogey wheels. Either the bearing was stiff or the wheel was missing some rubber. I replaced them all to be safe.
While it was out I installed a J&T 4th wheel stealth kit. The tri hub seemed fine but its cheap when compared to the J&T kit.
Putting the skid in was a chore for me. Getting the 4 bolts in that hold the skid to the tunnel was tough. I ended up ratchet strapping the front shock and rear shock down and getting my wife to help me pry it into place. My wife is GREAT!! I asked Cannondale later and he said I should have bolted the front shaft in first then put the skid in. Makes sense.
All in all it went well with help from this site and Cannondale. The reverse works and no leaks so far!
Tools Needed: Everything in your garage. lol
Some more pics during and after the project:
Last year I had a few stud pullouts so I needed to change the track. I was just going to take it to the dealer but with the time we have before the snow flies I decided to tackle this myself.
I'm not going to post every step as most of its in the FAQs. I'll just add what is not there and what I noticed with 2700 miles on my sled.
After you get the gear case off, take a picture of everything assembled and steps pulling the gears out. By the time you put it back together there's a good chance you won't remember or will second guess how it goes back together.
Inspection of the gears and chain was great after 2700 miles. No sign of wear even on the main top gear.
After the chain case was gutted I pulled the skid out. I didn't have a ceiling winch or high jack to lift the back end way up. To get the skid out I used a ratchet strap to pull the front shock down to pull it out easier. Taking the shock out would be an option but just another bolt to remove.
When the skid was out I went to the clutch side and oops....I forgot to take the secondary off before I took the gears out. Not a bid deal but you have to jam something in the secondary to get the bolt off. Brake doesn't work when gears are out. lol
Took the snap ring off the shaft that holds the brake on, but the brake wouldn't come off by just pulling on it. I took a 30 mm socket, pulled the shaft as far as I could out of the gear box, wedged a rubber hammer behind the brake rotor and tapped the 30 mm socket with a hammer till the shaft was loose. Although the shaft was loose I still couldn't get the full brake assembly out of the little hole it sits in. After wrestling with it for 15 min I just split the brake assembly and it came out no problem.
After that was out I inspected the bearings on the top and bottom shaft on the clutch side. The bottom shaft bearing was good but with little grease left in it. Cleaned the junk out with a Q tip, sprayed with wd40 and packed it with grease
Cleaned packed with grease:
The upper shaft bearing on the clutch side was pretty much empty with grease. This should b greased more regularly.
Packed with grease:
After this was all done it was time to put it back together. I have read something about using a ratchet strap to get it back together, but never understood...... I do now! To get the snap ring on the bottom gear I had to use a strap to pull the tunnel together so the snap ring would go on. Cleaned all bolt holes on the case, cleaned the oring on the cover with a Qtip, then put it back together.
The reverse actuator was preloaded a bit when I took it off so when I put it back on I preloaded again just to keep it the same. Oh don't forget to put the gear oil in before the actuator... lol!
This skid was in good shape except for the bogey wheels. Either the bearing was stiff or the wheel was missing some rubber. I replaced them all to be safe.
While it was out I installed a J&T 4th wheel stealth kit. The tri hub seemed fine but its cheap when compared to the J&T kit.
Putting the skid in was a chore for me. Getting the 4 bolts in that hold the skid to the tunnel was tough. I ended up ratchet strapping the front shock and rear shock down and getting my wife to help me pry it into place. My wife is GREAT!! I asked Cannondale later and he said I should have bolted the front shaft in first then put the skid in. Makes sense.
All in all it went well with help from this site and Cannondale. The reverse works and no leaks so far!
Tools Needed: Everything in your garage. lol
Some more pics during and after the project:
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
I love the studding job! This is the way I always do it with double backers. I don't understand why so many guys swear by double backers and then put singles in also?
4-2-4 pattern rocks and is all doubles!!!
4-2-4 pattern rocks and is all doubles!!!
DMCTurbo
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Nice write up, I just tackled the same project. I took pictures of the chaincase as I disassembled just as you did. If you take your time it's not too bad of a job. I did not need to use a ratchet strap as my snap rings went in no problem. I probably rank this job as a 6 out of 10 on the difficulty scale for someone with average mechanical aptitude.
newtron
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And yes I know the 4th wheel kit wheels r on backwards. I like it better cause it matches the bogeys. Did this on my 2015 viper
newtron
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Yes its not bad if you have some time. It took me 3 nights after work to get it done
Awesome! Was great talking with you last few nights. Is really good news on that top gear. I saw another today with 2100mi on it and it looked like new also. 15 wide chain,No Wobble bearing on Sidewinders vs 14wide and Wobble on Vipers must be the key to this. Thank You for posting this now all we need is snow!
Last edited:
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Nice write up...
Which brand and type of chaincase oil are you using ? your top gear bushing looks to be in great shape.
Which brand and type of chaincase oil are you using ? your top gear bushing looks to be in great shape.
ROCKERDAN
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Great write-up! Thanks for this Bud. 
Dan
Dan
He told me Yamaha Chaincase oil.
ROCKERDAN
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For me, I like double backers, but only when used on a row of at least 4 studs. I am not a big fan of ONE double backer on its own in a block. I dont like the imbalance of it, and it must be offset so it does not hit middle protector.
Most guys who run 2/4/2/4 pattern will run 2 doubles(4 in one block) then two singles, so they can be spread evenly.
What I would do if I were him, is add one more double per row, so he ends up with 4 per bar. It will be much more evenly spread then.
Dan
newtron
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Its just the Yamaha gear oil I have already added the extra studs. Didn't like the look of the missing link every other bar!
Never Satisfied
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I am not a fan of double backers, too much load on the track. If you get a tear out you need to swap tracks immediately.
ROCKERDAN
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I know alot of guys who agree, and do NOT like doubles at all. I have always only run single rounds, and do like the way you can adjust your pattern so easily. But this yr Im trying doubles(every other) and singles for the 2/4/2/4 pattern, which does work nicely. I just like them to be more even, so only using doubles in 2's(4 per bar) and then singles in 2's(2 per bar).
Dan
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